Phizinza

Ahhh, good point... Didn't think of that. So if someone was to make a dual carb setup that went onto each head (like the Alfa 33's have, here is Aus anyway.) it would be possible? If so, anyidea on how much before it breaks something?

I don't like the idea of having a snorkle breath from the cab... Do you know how much noise the intake makes?? On my dual carb'ed EA81 it's massive. And I bet everytime you hit the gas your ears would pop! As for the snorkle.. I am thinking it would be a good idea, last time I play'ed in the mud I got the whole top of my hood wet.. Not the outside, the INSIDE of it!.. MY air filter was dripping, but the only thing that stopped me in the water was the puddles in my disty cap!

I was just wondering... If you were to plain your block (not your heads) down, can you increase compression this way? Also, does anyone know how far you can take off your heads or block before you run into valve problems.. I am mostlly interested in EA81, but we can talk EA82 as well. I would love to make my dual carbie EA81 (the real EA81dc, with the vavles the other way round) a higher compresstion. Maybe if I got some new pistons with valve cut outs. Any idea how much compression is possible in one of these engines? 11:1?

hahaha, sorry, I thought the wagon was a 85 + model when I saw the video the first time round! stupid me. Just ignore me please... :-\

ahahahha, your kindding right?? They will just say, get a kit from BYB.... Here mate, my bro and I are making our own kits with 50x50mm solid alloy block (just like ausBYB's) costs us $60 a car in alloy (minus work), $65 for a blade for the cirular saw, and $95 in bolts. Then all you need is strut lifts.. We are sorta pressed for time so we got the strut lift blocks from Hi-Rise for $100 posted a pair. If you want I can get you the blocks you need for your car (minus strut blocks and bolts) in soild alloy cut and drilled for around $90 posted to you. Then I will give you a list of the hi tensile bolts you need and you can get them thru a place like Sprints Auto. I might even be able to get you some strut lift blocks cheap too, just need a mig welder. All up a 2" lift kit for a EA82 should only cost "me" (I would charge for work for others) about $260.. about $80 for my work on it, $40 post around Aus.. And that's better then paying like $460 I'd say. But trust me, if you have a few tools and are willing to do the work, you can get it heaps cheaper.. I am not interested in doing this as a job, just would like to help some locals out I guess. As for getting it registed, you'd have to do that on your own, it should work out ok, but you never know. Anyway, if your interested, email my or something and we'll chat.

Honda's RULE!!! muhahahha... :-\ lol... go the ricer flashy lights!

Dunno about the US, but it's totally random here. I have seen a 85 with 3.9, a 88 with 3.7, and 89 with a 3.7 first two were Touring wagons, other was a standard wagon. My bro has a 83 wagon with a replaced gearbox which is 3.9 and a wrecked 82 wagon with a 3.7... My 89 Brumby/Brat is 3.7.I also asked the ausubaru (waist of time, but what the hell) about it and the resaults were random too.. Only thing that was steady was LSD's being 3.7 (cos we didn't get the XT6 with the 3.9.) Best thing to do is swap the rear diff with the gearbox.. But you will know if theres something wrong while in 4WD on the pavement!

Either use a 36mm socket + breaker-bar or a huge adjustible spanner/wrench to get the hub nut off (after taking out the pin ofcause!) then stand on the spanner/breaker-bar. Then you pull off the hub/drum.. You don't even need to take the wheel off ! But it's best to while it's on the car. Sometimes you need the wheel on there to get the hub off the splines. Check out this if your interested. http://webmaster.beverleypaine.com/6stud_conversion.html

phffft, wrx's suck. Old school wagon ROCKS! hahaha! Muhahaha! Man, looked like fun. Hope you have some more paint and some spare struts! ehhe. I love the "shock wave" on your old struts. Bouncy bounce.

Some people don't take "no" for an answer... I like these people.

Very true. I shall add that in a moment. I used engine oil (worked good) and got my bro to sharpen the 14mm bit twice (I bought it brand new, and it cost $38. So I didn't really want to grab "spares" lol. Cheers for reminding me to add that mate.

BBB!!! lol, nah. A's better...

bpm, got any part numbers for your boss kits you have fitted to EA81's?

Re: 6 stud conversion. The alignment is fine.. Because two of the bolts line up perfectly it is as good as driving with only two lug nuts on (which is entirely possible, and works, but not recommended) So no wheel balance problems at all. One other thing I missed out on my first draft of the article on my site (updated now) is you really should put the lug nuts on the original studs and tighten them up, then put the other 4 on. This way it is all aligned perfect, even if your other studs aren’t quite in the right place.

Seems the same when it comes to outter CV's... Some say it can't, others say they did...

I'm just so glad it doesn't look totally 'ghay'... To anyone wanting my wheels I will sell them with the tyres for $1700USD plus shipping!

I think I have a good prop shaft in a wreck. If I can jack that up (rust problem, the jack goes up, but the car doesn't) I will pull that prop off and put it on mine.

I have a squeak coming from the rear end of my Brat. I found that it was coming from near the front of my rear diff (driving along with my brother hanging out the door...) I replaced the diff, but it's still there. Would I be able to grease the uni joint (via a grease nipple?) or do I have to replace the whole prop shaft? And what grease whould I use? I have HTB and Moly grease, but that's all I think. I'm guessing HTB as the uni joints have bearings right..? Cheers for ya help.

Congratz on the job... Would be awesome to work in a performance shop.

Nighteyes, is there a subie model that comes with those lights? I saw some on a RX sedan here in Aus and thought they were a aftermarket "upgrade"

.. why not cut it out, cut out a hole in your hood and let it do something... maybe it would cool the gearbox... not that subies need extra cooling. I like your rims, looks sweet.

Keep wishing.

The "popping" you discribed sounds like balljoints to me.. They are normally pertty cheap to replace.. But hard to get out. I use a 5ft bar and lever the hub awat front the swing arm do get mine out. first take the nut off the bottom, and lever. Then put the nut back on loose, take the bolt out that holds the ytop in and lever again. Good to have a helper if you can.

Technically not a "short shifter" but if your happy with it, thats cool. Short shifters change the lever point so the stick stays the same height but the lever action is less. There are kits out their on eBay that just cut their shifter down, and they call them "Short shifter kits" but you know how ebay is.. I like my shifter size/throw on my 2" lifted Brat. Wouldn't want it longer as I would have a hard time not crunching gears... But we definitely need pics

I might also add that with the 215 wise tyres it handles like magic. Steerings a bit heavy in car parks. But the grip on road is fun.. keeping in mind I used to run Kumho M/T's which are super hard compound. And because they are 25" diameter the gearing in the 4sp box feels perfect. I was thinking these rims would look sweet on a stock height gen 1 Brat... wish I had the money to run two cars.