Phizinza

Oh the music... It was so.... hmmm.. Some people... I am just lost for words.

If Ozified is right you should be only getting about 120PSI in all 4 cyl'eds. A N/A EA82 should get around 150PSI. Just as a tip, all four cyl'eds should be within 5PSI of each other. Older used motors sometimes get out by 10PSI. And if it's more then that you may have 1 or more bad cyl'ers. Recon'd engines should be pretty good and close to each other. I believe that the EA82 carb's "mixture screw" is only for the idle. And won't effect driving mixtures. Other wise I dunno. So you set the timing to 10degrees BTDC? is your spark good? You may be having huge fuel useage because you are putting your foot down a lot more. So it might just be a power issue.

How about letting the new people share the good photo's around, and just not posting to the topic. We're not all here to find info and help. Some of us also like to share interesting facts. And some of of us have never seen or heard these facts. BTW I have seen the pic before. So, just don't bother replying if you have nothing else to add. Thank you. Hmm, not very useful where I live... We never get snow

Yes, they are very, very, very, very, very rare here. There was this really nice one a Adelaide company imported. It was on a artical somewhere online called "Grand daddy Subie" or something. They wanted $3500 for it plus about $1500 to get it rego'd and checked out... I wonder if anyone bought it. Anyway, it was sweet. Subaru Blue, 13" gold superlites... Mmmm.

Trust me, my bro knew what he was doing with inflation. Although, he may of been trying to get the most out of cornering, not tire life.

Sorry, late night, I was all mixed up... This happens when your time zone is 14 hours out for where the forum is manly used :-\

I didn't mean toyota style flares. If you just bring the fenders out, that is called flaring. So, I just kinda think camo on a street car is "...."

205 is getting a bit wide for a 5.5" rim, but should still work. My bro ran Yokahama 205/60 13's on 5.5" wide alloy's on his x1/9 for the rear, they were pretty good, even wear, but the "no-name brand" ones on the front, which were 205/60's too got un-even wear. I think it was the middle of them wore quicker.

By the way, its hydraulic, not pneumatic. Pneumatic has oil and pumps that move the oil around to create pressure in certain ends of the ram. Hydraulic is kinda the same, only it uses pressurised air to move the rams. But that doesn't matter cos we have all understood you. I have air shockers in the back of my Brat. But they only stay inflated for a couple of hours. Still good for putting half a ton in the back and not rubbing those 27" M/T's though. I'll have to check for leaks on them some time soon... EDIT: by this time your all thinking... huh? your joking right? well, all I can say is, I was tired...

Is this what you are talking about? Look at all the images. http://webhost1.inspire.net.nz/~nyloc/Toybaru/pages/Lhr.htm ... It uses a toyota inline4 engine, a EA81 gearbox, a sprocket system leading to a modded hub, then that runs a driveshaft/propshaft to a front diff. It is just pure... crazy. WHY would they use a long inline4 when a flat 4 is so easly attached onto the gearbox??

... didn't turn out well. But for 10mins of work I guess it's ok.. :-\

You might need to get the screw driver out, pull some plastic off the dash around the instrument cluster and dimmer switch and check all the connections onto the cluster and switches. Basically just pull them off, make sure the wires aren't hanging out and plug them back in. It can get very annoying chassing down these problems, but if you persist, you'll get there (we hope.)

First I thought this post was about a valve out of a Vortex (Australian name for the XT) engine. Then I thought it was a set of replacement valves for an engine... Then it just turned out to be one of those things you stick in your air intake. Personally what I think, for the amount of money it ain't worth it for the extra HP. As for fuel, if you drive like me, you won't save fuel, you'll just get a bit more power. They have been tested, and they are garrenteed to a degree. So, if you think you'll get a saving from there minimum garrenteed fuel saving, then it's worth a go. I have only seen more power with these types of devices when tested. But I just don't think it would be worth it.

To stop it (well, maybe not stop) from scuffing, use etch primer, then a really tough paint. Something rated for machinery. It will still scuff, just not as bad. I find just putting on rattle can paint doesn't hold up. Need that etch primer underneath. Lookin good. And good luck with the job, lol.

Me too. When the diffs start to spin, back down a bit where theres more grip, and give it hell! That's about all I can do. I plan on rear LSD in my Brat soo, but their like $400 a pot here is Aus.

So there's no way to fit the low gear out of a 5sp in to the FT4WD? I have never seen a FT4WD gearbox, so excuse my ignorance please. As some of you know, here is Australia we got AWD with lowrange in some early 90's model liberty's (aus name for legacy's.) Their low range sucks too. But theres a company here that make better low range gears for them. But at $1500 a pot, I'd think not. I haven't seen a Lcoupe lifted, would be cool, and with all the goodies, like LSD, rear disks... It has everything I want to put on my ute... If you have the money, do it! We'll all love ya for it

That's a little harsh, sorry, I take it back.At least you still have to use the throttle with an auto. I'm just a die hard manual fan. Oh, and tell me this, what sounds worse then a 4 banger with an auto and a fart can?

I know there are many great things about offroading with a auto. I just won't drive one, heh. Some good things are, torqu convertors allow for what feels like lower gearing. Also if you don't have many years experience with a clutch (I'm not saying I do, I'm saying my dad does, all those years of backing trucks with trailers) It is hard to keep the car running smooth and not burning out your clutch. Aad fact about autos, not much if any deceleration down hills. Take for instance you are heading down a very steep long hill. At the bottom theres a creek and by then your brakes are glowing red. Either you stop there for 5mins to cool down your brakes, or you take the chance going thru the water and hope you don't warp your front disks... But the only reason I don't use an auto, is cos I love manuals too much. As for the topic.. Good luck in changing any part(s) in an auto. I think theres a reason the auto section in my FSM is less then a page long and basically says get it serviced by a trained professional.

...? All the wheel books/pamphlets I have seen say it is 139.7mm... Just grab a calculator and do this sum: 5.5 Inchs x 2.54 Inchs to CM Conversion = 13.97 CM x 10 CM to MM Conversion = 139.7 MM Where'd you get 138.5 from? I'll try photochopping the alloy's onto a old school subie sometime later today.

I can't see that image here (maybe cos I'm on a PocketPC), but a quick google image search for the file name '92_jeepsm' and its the only one there.... So you think Camo is a good street paint job?? I think on a fender flared twin turbo Brat with mags that would be getting on the verge of ricer.. But that's just my opinion.

I don't think you understood me.. I don't like 'any' auto's.. It's like cruise control. If you are too lazy to change gear, you scare me when your on the road. But, personally I just hate autos.. I like to drive cars, not them drive me. I use "you" to mean anyone who drives a auto. Not a particular person.

... This is my thought... I'd never own a Auto... Manual is the only gearbox in my mind. Obviously you have been deprived of good subie offroading. Dual range is a must.

First one is good, second one would be good if the white was a dark color and the stripe was a bright color.

... Hmm, I wish you were in Aus so I could show how a properly built EA81 push roder can go. I have the dual carb EA81 with all the dual carb goodies, better cam, EA82 styled valves arrangment, and two carbs. In stock, new, form it should do about 104hp. Freely revs to 7500rpm. Is a sweet engine. Oh, and BTW, drag engines get over 2500hp with push rods... I don't think a timing belt could take it (other wise you'd expect to see them on drag cars.) It all depends on the build of the engine. The fact EA82's are more powerful then EA81's is because of the restrictions in the air flow. Give a EA81 the same flow as a EA82 (i.e. the EA81dc), and there no different to each other for power. It's just the fact that a normal EA81 is older and not as refind as a EA82. As for the topic, seems in the US you can get EJ22's in junkyards, I'd probably go the swap. Unless you don't like working with cars at all. Then I would get a 2.5" exhaust with straight thru mufflers built at a exhaust shop. I'd get a pod filter with some adaptor fitting to fit the carb (not hard at all, I've done it.) And some new spark plugs and wires, with a new disty cap+rotor. Oh, and if you pour a little bit of AUTO trans fluid down the carby when the engine is running, slowly of cause, it can do wonders. Good clean out always helps. Of cause theres always more you can do, it just depends on how much money you have, and if you like working with cars.. And I don't mean doing things like oil changes...

Loyale 2.7 Turbo, I think he ment a 3" hole in the rear muffler, facing down I hope. Other thing, the turbo'd EA82's do not have a "Y" pipe. The exhaust from the left head goes over towards the right head, then joining to it it heads backwards, then up to the turbo, then down thru a Cat. Jus thought you might of not know this. But anyhow, I like the red, but if I paint my ute any other color it is going to be orange.