Phizinza

From what I understand about how they build cars the front crumple zone won't affect where the engine goes. The great thing about N/S engine placement is the design of the firewall assists in pushing the engine down and backwards. But, if you cut any part of the unibody you are drastically decreasing safety. I only said weld in another bar to keep the car from twisting. I kinda think Glen is on the right track. Big slidy skid plate, and some more juice to get it to silde that first foot up the hill...

When I think black and orange I think of the first Lancia Stratos I ever saw (I fell instantly in love with that car too...)But I agree, do what you like. If that be making everyone happy, or just doing a personal paint job.

... Dunno about in the US, but down here we have bouncing roo's.. If the bumper was mine I'd get a bar off that "push bar" (on top) and rap it round to attach behind the indercators. That way when you hit a roo it doesn't make a bloody mess of the light... just a thought.

I'd say your a redneck if you spend $XXXXX.xx on your "Offroad" rig, and it is never seen with mud splats on the hood/glass/roof... Or does that have a different name?

From what I have seen a good sized radiator can only fit above the engine when you have a 6" lift. I could be wrong, but this is what Subarubrat said. You could move the radiator, weld in a new cross brace bar just in front of the engine pullies (or if you had a 6" lift, above the enging infront of the airbox. On second thought, that would be a bad idea, as you need to connect the chassis rails. There the bits the engine crossmember bolts onto.) I'd say its possible to get 200mm off the front. But, what size lift you running at the moment? A 6" lift just by itself could solve your problem. As it will bring the front of the vehicle higher and increase the angle from the tire to the front bumper. Or, there is another option. Change of driving style. Try getting the car to go up at a angle. Of cause, without LSDs/lockers this wilk be hard.

Wow..... chill out gunslinger... We all like subies, we just have different ways of understanding things. Please play nice and friendly. As I see it, with a 4" lift and no different tires that MY would still get stuck. Haven't you forgotten that MY's use a 1 piece propshaft. This means even once you put your 4" "body lift" on you will still have the same clearance under the propshaft, rear diff, exhaust, engine, gearbox, and swing arms... So, the way 'I' see it, if this clearance hasn't changed there is no need to call it suspension lift. Because, well, you still don't have clearance on what you want to keep safe! And what is the point of lifting (giving all drive parts a nice new view of all the rocks) if your not going to use that lift to put bigger tires on... Ask just about anyone on this board with a lifted subie and they'll say you'd be nuts to lift a subie and run stock wheels... Ok... So you will get more clearance on each side of your propshaft... And you will get better approach and departcher angles... But you will Not get more clearance under what I call the important things... I can see what your on about gunslinger. But I think you are miss understanding what I am on about too. We can leave it here, I will be happy to do so. But i would like my point of view noticed. On soild axle vehicles a suspension lift moves the axle away from the chassis. I does this because then it has more room to move upwards (back towards the chassis) for what we would call "suspension travle" A "body lift" on a soild axle vehicle lifts the body upwards from the chassis. Essentially twe get the same results when "body lifting" a Subaru. Which is (the way I see it) giving the ability to attach bigger tires into the fender wells. Hope you all under stand what I am saying. Sorry about the post being so long, and if I wasn't nice in any part, sorry, but I'm a little tired. As you can see by my grammer being so far off.. Cheers, Phizinza. http://www.OffroadingSubarus.com

I saw on a packet of wheel studs it said drill a hole 0.25mm smaller then the splines. The splines are 14.28mm wide. So I am guessing a 14mm drill bit should do good. BTW, as I said before, I am drilling the hubs, not the wheels. So 13mm just isn't going to do it.

Hmm, I'm thinking now I want another Brat to put a EJ20t in and put that orange paint job on it... I don't really like the whole carbon fiber look... One of the coolest street brats I've seen have full STi running gear, black 17" rims and was painted a new coat of white... Looked sweet, I'll find you some pics if i can.

looks SCHWEET mate... What color is this going to be?? Gonna try and out do Austin?

We had a EA82 running with the timing belts off by 3 and 4 notches.. (due to a lack of reading the manual properly) It ran, but didn't want to go anywhere. I say, read the FSM about 12 times, change the belt position about 3 times and you'll figure it out. (Oh, I love my EA81 push-rod engine )

Amen! What I don't like (did not happen in this case though) is when people only reply with "use the search function!" Instead it would be nice for them to: 1) NOT reply at all 2) reply with "use the search function next time, but for now heres a link to a list of resaults" As for the subject at hand. You can swap the gearboxes, but from my knowlage you will need a few things. Front axles (as FullTime4WD gearboxes used a different spline size and count on their shafts.) Throttle, brake, and clutch peddel box. And another center console (I would think) There are probably more things you will need. But at this stage I am going to just say, Use the search function! Because I have never owned or converted a Auto to Manual before. I kinda refuse to own a auto :-\ Cheers, and good luck, Phizinza http://www.OffroadingSubarus.com

I'm glad you like it. Although, as said before, each to their own. Personally I think having a tip that is bigger then the pipe is kinda useless. May as well get rid of the muffler all together and have a 2.5" pipe sticking out the rear of the car. I would like that more because 1) less rice looking and 2) more of a raw note from the engine, no big chambers making a rumbling sound. I like raw engine sounds, esp from a EA81 .. At lease the rest of your car is pertty stuck looking, its just that tip... I am thinking of upgrading my 2" pipe with straight thru muffler for just a 3" pipe. But my car is already loud enough, so I would like to keep the sound, but just quiter, dunno how I am going to achive that... I do like the red, I is that a factory colour? Would that be the same "Flair Red" they used on Brats (like mine?) Well, have fun with it! Oh, also, is it a FullTime4WD? would be so much fun. My bro is selling his FWD 2.2 turbo Telstar. It goes like a race hound on steroids, but because of the stock suspension and its power > traction problem it makes a very interesting drive. AWD turbo... "That's What I Want!" As they say at Greaterunion.... lol

I'll just throw in a bit of info on what a "lift kit" really does. A "lift kit" for a subaru is a body type one. This means all it does is lifts the body off the "running gear". The running gear is, engine, gearbox, rear diff, rear torsion/swing arm, and struts. The reason they don't do "suspension lifts" for Subaru's is because of the independent suspension. If you lift the suspension you will break the CV joints. A body lift doesn't give you more ground clearance. Basically all it does is add more room between the fender guards and the tires. Which allows you to install bigger tires. When you put bigger tires on a car the gearing changes, because you will travel further on one rotation of the wheel. If you get a 4" lift you should be able put 27" tires on without cutting/bashing anything. This will increase your gearing by about 20%. just my 2 cents. Cheers, Phizinza http://www.offroadingsubarus.com

Yeah, I'd say someone was having fun with some glue... It just can't be!

Well, I done a bit of photochopping. Here is an old picture of my Brat, before a few of the offroad mods were installed. You will find the original picture on my site at http://webmaster.beverleypaine.com/images/orange_brat.jpg Personally, I like black and orange. And I think this looks pretty bloody mean. Hope you like it. (oh, and feel free to copy the design, just send me a picture of it afterwards!!) Cheers, Phizinza http://www.OffroadingSubarus.com

Yeah, I thought I remembered seeing a post that looked the same as this a couple of months back on AUSubaru. Do you just have the dual carb manifold and carbs, or the original high flow dual carb engine as well?

I'll have to drive my brothers 83 wagon more. See, I have a dual carb ea81, not just the carbs, but also the better flow heads. So maybe that makes my car powerful enough in 4t. Normally I can keep over 90km/h (about 55mph) on hilly roads. I thought in the 5sp boxes 1,2,3 gears were the same, fourth a little shorter, and fith fair bit above 4sp's fourth.

Ok, so I am doing the 6 lug conversion. I only have (had, I just broke it) 13mm drill bit. I read that I need a 9/16th's bit, and somewhere else I read 14mm. Seems the 9/16th's bit is about 14.29mm i figure this is a big difference. So, tell me, what size do I need!??! BTW, I have a drill press and all, I've got 13mm holes in one of the hubs and they are PERFECTLY aligned (good eye sight I guess). I was feeling good about it all, until I found out my local hardware store only sells upto 13mm bits.. Then I broke mine.. And even more has gone wrong today. So, before I continue to stuff everything up I'll just get you to conferm which size I need... Thanks!

So as for the exahust, is that just a muffler, or do you really have a 3" straight thru? Got any side pics?

ER27tt... Anyway. I don't really like that paint. Can't think up any other ideas right now, If I use my PC (not the laptop) today I'll do some Photochopping with my Brat and see what I can come up with. I think the GT stripes aren't original enough to look "really" cool...

A good place to ask may be in the AUSubaru.com wanted and for sale classifieds section. They didn't get Dual carb'ed motors in the US. And most of this forum is US..

Do you mean just the air cleaner, or the box as well? My dual carb EA81 uses a airbox that takes normal EA81 air filters...

No, I haven't. And I understand that the design of the EA82T is such that it is delicate and needs top notch gear to run right. Also, the gaskets I get look better then OEM, but I guess not all of you are so lucky. On another note. Isn't this topic started by a guy who has a "92 Carby Dl Wagon"... I dubt it's a turbo...

But its very unlikely for a EA81 to break a timing belt.... They can bent rods though. Do the EA82 pistons have groves for the valves cut in them? I own a EA81DC, dual carb, in other words it has the valves the same way round as the EA82's. So the groves would work with mine. Might make my 100hp engine a little more peppy. Although I have more plans for that too.

I pay under $16AUD each for mine, that's for a EA81 though. They seem to work fine. Personally I think the "must get OEM" thing is just nuts...