Phizinza

I've been using a welded diff in my sedan with both axles in for about 6 months now. Although the car doesn't get much driving. I found pumping the 27" MT's up to 40psi in the rear really helped with screeches, heavy steering, and economy. I'd take out a shaft but I've got a lot of dirt roads around my place and 3WD sucks...

My lightforce 170's light about 800meters down the road. 250m or so I can spot animals easily. But I didn't have to pay for these so I guess it might be a bit much for anyone to get some (I won mine in a race). http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/victoria_trip_2009_56.jpg

HA!, you should see the 2 banger Subaru Sherpa's we get here http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/674/4301/26684650005_large.jpg

cig lighter plug has 10amp fuse, 10 amps at 12v is only 120watts, where are you going to find a 110v compressor that is any good that only uses 120watts? Plus it is all just much more weight. A belt driven compressor is relatively light weight compared.

Hows the glare off the hood? With my bullbar before I painted the bars around the lights black I lots so much vision because the reflected light screws up your night vision. Got rid of most of the reflecting and the headlights looked quite a few watts brighter. Also before going and upping the watts etc of your lights, try not having any blue lights in the car, like CD players, neon's, etc. Blue light screws your night vision up too. Orange is best for night vision, so make all internal lights orange or red. Just more food for thought. Sometimes upgrading isn't the only way around, you can fix influences to the problem as well.

Here in South Australia we have lots of sand so going 4wding often means you let the tyres down to around 7-10psi. A small cig lighter pump takes about 10mins a wheel to get back to road pressure, that's 40mins waiting and by then if you didn't let the pump cool down its fried (yes, we have fried a pump like that before. I rebuilt it and it worked again but not as well). With my brothers York (Range Rover) compression he could inflate a 27x8.5R14 tyre in 40seconds. Or one of his 35x12.5R15 tyres in a min 30. If I didn't have aircon in my car, I'd use the pump as a compressor for sure. But for now I'll just rely on someone else or a fuel servo nearby

That video is so funny... all the crowd sounds... and then the cutesy music near the end when the new little tree is growing...

Your not swapping relays, the old positive line relays in the Subaru stay to power the new relays (just easier to leave them is all) the headlights get rewired to common negative, then the relays control the positive. So instead of your lights power having to go all the way through your steering column dip switch which looses about 1 to 1.5 volts (this equals about 10watts of power) you get almost battery volts on your globes. Read the write up, you'll hopefully understand then.

Read my write up about it here http://offroadingsubarus.com/headlight_relaymod.html

You need to just fit air fittings to the aircon unit. The inlet side needs a filter and the outlet side needs a moisture trap. You also need to make sure it has oil in it, and some of that oil will get caught in the moisture trap so you'll need to empty that and top up the compression every so often.

have you done the 'relay mod' yet? New globes are pointless without doing it in my mind

Drive softer, use smaller tyres to gain crawl gearing, pick your best line by doing a walk over the terrain before you drive it. But seems you've been 4wding long enough Scott, I'd suggest just sticking solid axles under your subies and build a subframe.....

Subaru never made these cars on a jig. So there are differences from side to side, car to car. My old Brat's front left wheel stuck out about 15mm more then the right front. My 83 sedan's rear end which came from an 84 wagon had massive un-adjustable toe out on its right, and slight toe out on the left. And yes, I check for damage on the assembly and it was perfect. After I modified it to have same toe in on each side the right side sticks out almost 20mm more then the left. They just aren't welded straight to start with. The reason you see this now is there is something close by the tire to compare it with. Before with the stupidly inset wheels you couldn't see it. I'd suggest the use of some small rubber flares.

but the water was the fun part.. I don't think anyone understood how I could be happy my car got bogged and flooded haha. I was just looking for something all weekend that would stop my car, not even this climb which only I attempted stopped me so I was happy to find that puddle. If you get stuck, you learn what went wrong and how you can do it better in future. I was tempted to try that hole again...

Anyone here run a locked rear diff in their EJ with AWD gearbox? If so let me know how it goes/went. Any damage? Effectiveness offroad compared to old school 4wd with welded rear diff? I've already talked about it on another forum and theories were discussed but no one had and real experienced input. So I'm just after someone with experience in the matter to respond.

I really gotta have a look into shipping companies.. But most people are turned off when I tell them the wheels are $75ea

yeah, trip leader scott kept telling us that was very unusual and we were very lucky.

Just thought some of you would like to see some pictures of my last weekend. Drove 750 odd kilometers down to Victoria to go 4WDing with a fellow forum member. Had a ball and not too much wrong with the car apart from it won't idle at all now and the carpets got a little wet. Click image to view more: http://offroadingsubarus.com/victoria_trip0609.html

Ok, I'll let him know. thnaks

I know someone with an EA81 and digi dash and they are having trouble with the AM/PM light flashing all the time. Any ideas on how to fix it?

When I saw this pic I thought, woah sweet wheels on that mower!

That's interesting. Because here in Australia ever EA82 I have seen with stock suspension has pretty much the same angle on the CV's as the EA81's I have seen. So the US go crappier suspension

Connie, nice Lego Whats the lift it has? I'm looking at getting a gen 3 in the future, putting some lift and slightly larger tyres under it. So I'm trying to figure out what I should do to lift it up.

Strangely enough this has happened to be.. Well I wasn't driving per say, the car was just rolling and it had no seat, so I was holding myself in it with the steering wheel. But stupid me forgot to bolt the wheel back on, I hit the brake pedal pretty damn hard! About this 2" strut lift only, I cannot see how people can do this. I mean, I had a look and in my 83 sedan with anything over 30mm (just over an inch) strut lift the axle angle was so extreme for a Subaru and in my experience if I were to drive offroad like that I'm sure I would destroy both shafts very quickly. Maybe the EA82's have less down travel from factory and this is how people get away with this?

So I'm assuming Liberty axles are made the same way as EA81/82 axles and thus can take a similar amount of angle. How much angle do the Legacy's come with, like height drop from gearbox side to hub side? But the more important thing I'd like to know, is there any difference in shock absorber travel between outbacks and legacy's..?