Phizinza

I hear those Itailians also like to pour auto trans fluid down there carbs, give it a good clean out.

... man you have bad luck. Although this makes me think twice, if i break down I think I will stay with the car, sleep in it even. Although most of the places I goto to offroad there is no phone coverage, so I wouldn't really have much of a choice!

All sounds great. But, in america they did not get the duel range EJ's. I am unsure who, where, when got them, I do know it is very popular here in Aus to have a EJ, and a D/R EJ box in a EA. Interesting about the carbed EJ though...

My mate bought a EA82 wagon with a seized motor. When we got it out it had number ones rod pointing out the block under the manifold. It blowe the right side of the block, and cracked the left, also cracked the PS bracket. No wonder the motor didn't roll start! hahahaha! About the worst I've done is stripe bolts and studs. No, its not that I do them up to hard. I striped a exhaust stud with 8nm on a torque wrench.... Oh, and then theres my dad's wagon. Bought it, drove it, then 4 months later noticed it didn't have a air filter (make sure you do the engine oil, oil filter, coolent, fuel filter, air filter, gearbox filter (once my brother drove a car with no gearbox oil for a month) and all the vacuum lines and maybe fuel lines when you buy a new car... I have to say, the EA82 is the first motor I've seen with a con-rod problem.. But that's because I've only really worked on them for now, and refuse to buy crappy cars.

Theres four ways I kno of making lift kits. First: soild alloy blocks, very popular. (btw Brumby Boy, I got a quote for enough to do a 2" kit on a MY for around $70.) Second: Square steel tube, with the bolts going through round tube inside it. You will want 4mm think with that. Thrid: Cast alloy, like sjr, some think its do fragile and will break, others use it with no problem. Fourth, soild steel blocks. With soild alloy, you will need a tool, like a electric haxsor, to cut it. Angle grinders just dont cut it (lol.) I have the square steel tube style, but I want to replace it with soild alloy. Although, for $30 I can get the soild steel. Oh, and for you metal guinness. There is different grade alloy. And each grade is softer and lighter, or heavier and tougher, then the other. There's no set weight. After all, its just a mix of other metals...

Man, that totally sucks! Do you have theft insurance?> I almost want to go bow hunting in your area now..... But its quite a drive. Hey, I can sell you a 70lb compound bow, with some arrows and three razor blade broardheads! What do ya say? Its camo!

Have you driven any 80's carbed under 2L cars before? This would help to understand what they feel like. The carbed EA82 is pretty gutless. But its not that hard to drive (if you don't want to get a 10sec quarter mile every start.) Do you have a tacho on this car? I normaly rev my dads 85 wagon to about 2k and keep it there while slipping the clutch, then change around 4k. As for if there is a problem. Check all your plug leads (pull one off a plug, only one at a time, and put a screw drive in the end and hold the screw driver upto a earth, i.e the body of the car or the engine casing.) You should get a 5mm or so spark.. be careful of cause. The coil can give one hell of a zap. How does the car rev while not under power? Can you rev it very freely?

Umm, maybe you stiped the button?! Nah, sorry man! I would start by looking at the wiring on the button. Then following the wiring back from the button, which I would imagin would go into the dash somewhere. I would also assume that the button would lead to a coupld of wires on the gearbox. Kinda like the reversing light wires. But as you probably know, I have never owned, or seen a push button subie setup. I'm just guessing.

... What if I forget I'm in 4lo and i go to pull in to a parking spot and then the car is jumping all over the place and I can't get it back to 2wd because its stuck..? happened twice before... Oh, and btw. The low range selector lever on a EA81 (79 - 84, brats - 87, aussie Brumbies - 94) is on the left, US drivers side, on the gearbox... They put it on the right, US passenger side, on the EA82 (85 - 94.) Some of my years might not be right, everythings different here in Aus...

Thanks a 1000 for showing this! Tell me. What problems/damage have you encounted yet? Looks like fun!

... ok, here goes.. When we put the new engine in a friends 86 wagon we changed the timing belts. The manual said put the engine in the middel of the three timming lines. We (they will say "you!") thought the timming lines were the A and B where top dead center is. So we got the motor running really horrid at 4 teeth on one belt and 3 teeth on the other off from where it was supose to go. After 1 hour of playing around with the belts we found out our mistake. I felt so stupid, as I remember seeing the real timming marks before. They got me to help as well cos I was a Subaru "guru".... I hadn't worked on a EA82 ever before, yet they still think i should of known.... go figure.

So you have a stock 85 + wagon? Or what? (just guessing as that is the most popular model on here) You can get some bigger tires. You will need 14 or 15" rims as well, try looking for pug rims (some Peugeot wheels have the same 140x4 bolt pattern) You should be able to fit 25" tires under there in stock form/no lift kit. Stock sized tires are 22.5 to 23 inch. So 25" will give you 1" of extra clearence on everything (not just the body, or just the axles, but everything) With some hammering and a haxsors (to trim the fenders) you can fit 26"s in maybe even 27"s on a stock wagon. But that would need lots of hammering! That fender wall is to close. Just remember, that the more you hammer that, the more it gets in the way of your pedels!. Just my 2 cents, have fun.

But have you tried parking in 4wd? lol.. It's not fun. As you can see in that other thread I didn't get the idea of it all. After some thought I came up with this If you have 28" or bigger tires nd you try to park in a tight space in 4WD LO it can get annoying (esp. without power steering) And high range just means you have to slip the clutch a lot, again esp when parking on hills. It is a usefull thing (well it would be for me!) and I plan on doing it. If anyone out there has done it, or is going to do it soon. Send me PICS!! hahaha. I was also thinking of using the standard lever as a HI/LO selector and have a 4WD pneumatic/hydraulic selector hooked to a button.

Pitty that you arn't though.... I decided not to get the car as the rear disks will not work on my Brat. So on to the next idea for more power.. I'll tell you at the moment it requires lots of modding and it will include my EA81DC motor, without the two carbs.... I'll post more about the idea latter, when things start to happen.

to tell you the truth I wasn't interested in the gearbox so much... It was just a bonus. I was more interested in the Ea82t and rear disks.. Time to do some research.

Just found out that it is only FWD. So that makes it a worth a little less to me. I haven't bought the car yet, just interested. If I do buy it its either a 20 hour drive to get it or organise shipping of it. I'm not 100% sure if I want it yet. I wonder how much I can bargin with the guy... We'll see. So far all I will get out of the car is Rear disk brakes for my car. Turbo'd engine for my car. And some really sweet alloy wheels. I'll report back once I'd made up my mind. Pitty its only FWD, I had almost decided to get it and then I found out that... Will the rear disks also work out of a FWD car onto my 4WD Brat?? Thanks waimaks, I think I have you in my MSN, maybe we should have a chat sometime. Thanks for the help guys!

Cool. I used something like that before.. One other thing... When you say push button 4WD that means its an auto right? or are there push button manuals? Thanks a lot guys!

Yeah, I have some glue thats just like JB.. but it didn't stand up to the job on my exhuast stud

Oh, and once the tapered thread is out, I leave the thread sticking thru the half wish bone thing (would you call that a swing arm?) and put the nut back on, then leaver it again. Thats the easiest way of getting the big end out I find...

Fuel pump, that's the only thing the car doesn't have. So, can I use any "XXXHP" fuel pump. Or do I have to use a EA82t original one?

Ok, How much of the wiring needs to be moved over? As in, is it just a bunch of wires from the engine to the ECU, or is it all intergrated in the wiring loom, and does that mean I have to take the whole loom out of the 82t and into the 81? Just say I have a complete EA82T donor XT. I should have everything I need right? So by my research I should have to do something along the lines of: Take the engine and crossmember and put in in the EA81. I will also use the exhuast out of the EA82T. Put the ECU in and the wiring. Anything else? Thanks.

I just get out my 8ft long 1" round solid iron bar and stick it between the wishbone thingy and hub casting (right next to the ball joint towards the center of the car) and push down with more then all my weigh. Some times it takes a bit of convincing...

Thanks guys.! Anymore answers? some confirmations?

Do XT turbos have rear disk brakes? Do XT turbos have a LSD, if so is it going to be a 3.7? Do XT turbos have AWD, 4WD or either? How hard is it to fix a striped head bolt on an XT turbo? Keeping in mind I've taken a few heads off of an EA81, pulled a few engines out of different cars, changed two gearboxes, and I have just about all of the tools for any job. I also have an above normal workshop to do everything in. How hard?

Bug's are rear engine RWD's... so I'd asume that they would use CV's and axles (drive shafts) Never really looked at one though, so I'm not sure.