Phizinza

More "fun" then I wanted. But I was committed to not doing a lift kit. If I were to do it again I would just build a 2" body lift for it.

Thinking of lifting a future car I don't already have. I'm wanting something more comfortable, more onroad then offroad, but still capable of light offroading and sand dune work. So I was thinking gen 2 or 3 Legacy (Liberty as they are known here). I would be interested in a slight lift, and some slightly larger tyres. I've been reading a bit and I didn't find anything definite about Forester or Outback struts. Like which ones give more lift, and if there are ones which give too much lift? The other thing I was thinking, do the Outback or Forester struts give more travel, or are they just longer down the bottom? I'd like some input on what the best combo setup for a gen2 or 3 leg would be for lift. Cheers!

This is with a Ea81 2wd sedan converted to EA82 5sp D/R (EJ gearboxes are larger but shorter, but I'd guess you'd need more room then what I made with one) http://offroadingsubarus.com/83sedan_4wd.html

I was talking about this to my brother and that's what we thought might of been a problem. They do keep at designing these things to be quieter, stronger etc. Perhaps they worked out a better shape/angle to the teeth? Its interesting, because I didn't have a problem with my FT4WD/EJ DR combo. Thrashed that box a fair bit, good 10,000km on it. Sold it now so I dunno if it lasted.

Mine are standard Jap import 101hp EA81 dual carb motor carbs, in other words Craptachi's. I've got some IDF 36's to go on, just need to make a new set of intake manifolds which I really should get around to soon as my car bearly drives atm when cold and not to great when warm. A single weber is better then dual hitachi's IMO.

I find the 4disc badge interesting... Factory EA81 4 wheel disc brakes?

Solution: You figure out shipping, you pay me $300-400US, I pull EJ D/R gearbox from car at wrecker. I then strip it down and ship necessary components for you to use with a donor EJ gearbox of any ratio. then you can have EJ D/R box that bolts straight to EJ engine with EJ clutch. You can mod in your own 1.59 EA82 low range easily. You can also have 3.9, 4.11 or 4.44 ratio depending on what donor box you have. Now if you want EA 2wd/4wd in this EJ box you could run into the same problems as this thread has stated and your stuck with 3.9 ratio. lol

Go with what you can afford

http://translate.google.com/translate?prev=hp&hl=en&js=n&u=http%3A%2F%2Fpage11.auctions.yahoo.co.jp%2Fjp%2Fauction%2Fn76644750&sl=ja&tl=en&history_state0= Translated

At that point there was something wrong with my carbies, and obviously the EFI on the EJ was working properly. Plus, now I've learnt how to drive better offroad I no longer need that EJ torque with my 27" tyres. The EJ's are fun to put in, play around with for a while. But for me I just lost interest in them because they are a ****in PITA to work on/with compared to the EA81. EFI always going wrong. Timing belts sliping due to mud. CEL popping up ever other day. IAC valve always screwing you over. $$$ to fix anything with it. That's why I'm back with my EA81 dualie, and converting it to webers. I'm not saying the EJ is bad, its just not for me atm. I do plan on getting a late 90's Liberty (Legacy) in the near future though. But I won't be offroading that like I offroad my 83 sedan. I'm building a trailer and my brother just bought a towing rig so I'm going towards purpose built toys now.

Without a dual range gearbox I wouldn't go over 26" OD tire. With dual range I wouldn't go over 28" tires. I run 5sp D/R in my EA81 sedan with 27" kumho's and I get annoyed at the high gearing. But I'm sure 28's would work, they'd just be a problem even more then what I have at the moment is. On road it should be ok with 27"s in high range. Subaru's do great offroad. But lifting and fitting larger offroad tires doesn't acutally do much to their ability. Welded rear diff is amazing, will help a heap. You can work on the suspension, but really there isn't much more to be had there that will be obviously better offroad. At least lifting and big tires makes the old Subaru's look good!

Oh yeah, forgot about that... I never thought that the same ratio gears but from different boxes could cause this problem. I'd say get an aussie EJ D/R or cryo treat the gears like whats-his-face said above^

So Gloyale, did the 4.11 crown wheel clear then 1.59 low range gears alright? I've heard the crownwheel needs machining but don't know if that is true. Pitty to hear about the gears. Were all the bearings held in with their little pins? I would recommend maybe pressing the gears off the EJ's output shaft and putting the EA's gears that came from the same box as the input shaft onto the EJ's shaft. Maybe this would solve the "mis-matched" gear problem? They aren't hard to press on and off if you have a press like I do.

More power = more likelihood of breaking things. Just a thought

Welded diff only makes a difference on steep dune climbs. If its mostly just rolling dunes then open should be fine. I'd stick with the 27's

Only time I've had problems with the carb not feeding the engine was on a down hill at an angle. And I was more concerned about it rolling then if the engine was running. I doubt even with a welded rear diff that you could go up something steep enough to stop a weber. But if you hate carbs and don't want to play probably best to ignore them. If SPFI acts like a brand new weber then you will gain a fair amount of low end torque over what you have now. I reckon you'll still have problems pushing those tyres though.. Even with an EJ in some situations I reckon you'll have problems.

I'm pretty sure there is a gap down between the shafts that the crank case sucks air through, thus its always pulling the air from inside the disty.

On the bottom, at the back of the disty on the EA81. Back as in the towards the rear of the car.You can't see it with the disty in the engine.

You can, but you still have a 4mm hole on the bottom right between the block and its self where water splashes over that sucks up water. So it won't do much. Basically you need a breather first, then seal it up. If its easier for you you can always put the breather in the cap. Some EA82 caps have a breather, maybe some EA81's do too?

Most I've pulled was with an EA82, 6x4 trailer with almost tonne/1000kg in it. Had a fairly steep hill to climb, ended up in 4wd lowrange 2nd gear. Worked, and the car is still driving around. I had 600kg in the back of my Brat, suspension was bottomed out. Didn't do that again, bad idea.

These clutch aligning tools are interesting... My brother and I have always just used our eyes and a screw driver. Never had a problem with that method yet.

The problem with the dissy is the breather hole on the bottom of it. I plugged mine, then drilled a hole and used a piece of brake hose pushed into the hole. Ran a vac line from that to the airbox where I had a spare plug. You need the dissy to breath so this is a must. Also what can work really well for a short time is stuffing huge amounts of grease in your dissy. All over the points, cap, rotor etc. Water gets in but doesn't effect spark. You will found however that after a couple of days of driving with this your will start to loose spark. This is because the grease burns and turns into carbon which conducts... So around the cap the spark will travel to what ever lead it wants. For the carby I once made up some PVC drain pipe adapters which worked well on a friends car. 65mm 90degree bends I think they were. Cut one side doneto just whre it elbows, drill a hole in the "top" extended the threaded rod from the carby etc. Also drilled and threaded some holes in the side for crank case vents. Then using some large industrial vacuum cleaner piping we attached this to a Liberty airbox which we had already modified to take the custom 2" steel snorkel we made up. If you search on here for snorkel you'll probably find some images I've posted up in those... EDIT: or not because I just had a look and the images are gone, not sure where I had those hosted....

I'd go TNT orange. Thats what the 4x4 comp guys other here call it. http://www. tnt.com Just the bright orange that company use.

I've tried a stock exhaust vs a 2.5" one with 1.75" headers. No power difference that I could feel. IMO, doing the exhaust on an old Subaru is only worth it for the sound. Personally I prefer the 2" single with a free flow turbo style muffler and 2" tip for sound.

Thats weird you say nothing D/R will bolt to the EA71. I could of sworn I've seen a EA71 car with 4sp D/R box. And I can't see how the 5sp shouldn't work if the 4sp does. Unless its all about the clutch. I've never dealt with EA71's before but I have seen them in wrecking yards.