Phizinza

hahaha, good stuff. Good luck with it mate. High comp turbo engines are something I want. Maybe someday soon when I get a XT I can have some fun. That engine bay look(s/ed) sweet.

And dont forget. Lots and lots of gaskets.! Nice work. I remember seeing that engine like 9months ago (am I right?) How about some 11 to 1 pistons as well Ahh why not, go the whole hog and do 14 to 1 with copper gaskets. Or build it back as stock. (is this a turbo EA81, or N/A?)

Well, I know that you can't run turbo engines too far advanced as they pre detornate. So I'm guessing the advance stuff doesn't do much or anything on a boosted engine. This is really a question for my bro, as he is the one with a turbo, but no subie so his not on this board.

yet another pm sent ben lol

With a avitar like that. I think so too benny, replied.

Lose of licence for 6 months and a $500 fine, its in the off topic section. For going 152kph in a 100 zone... well it aint there yet :-/

RightyO, So the SUB4 heads are something quite different to what subaru ever done. So If I were to turbo my deul carb heads it would be just as good as the turbo ones, execpt no injectors, two carbs should be ok tho. Oh hang on, I not going to turbo my engine... After what happened to my brother this morning :-/

I thought turbo heads had two imputs and two outputs. Am I wrong? This one here looks like a head I pulled off a stock 82' wagon. And this one here looks plan weird...

Not to be an a$$, but shouldn't this be moved to the Offroad section? As for the subject. What a Subaru body lift does is puts blocks in between the "running gear" and body. So, when you lift a subie you are lifting the body off of the rear shocks/ struts, rear diff and cross member, gearbox crossmember and gearbox, engine crossmember and engine, front struts, and swaybars (tell me if I missed anything) When you do a suspension lift you are just lifting the shockers and struts. This, because subaru use inderpendent suspesion unlike toyotas soild axles, will put more angle on your CV and DO joints. And there for taking them past the limit they have. And then you start hearing CLICK CLICK every time you move the car. I have heard you can only go about 1.5" of suspension lift in old subies before you really start eating axles. So, where all the "Running gear" is bolted to the body you would put 4" tall or so blocks of metal and longer bolts. And you will be able to fit 29" tyres. If you want to do huge suspension lifts, then think about moving to soild axles. I think someone here (they call there car the Death Hatch) uses soilds. Much stronger design, but less manurvable. Easiest thing to do is buy or build a 4 to 6 inch body lift and put big tyres on it. Of cause, even with my 27's its a pain in the butt to drive. Stock is 23" I think... Does this clarfiy anything? I was of the opinion that every one wasn't understanding every one else...

ditto

don't forget; if its before turbo, and O2 sensor, you will also be running rich. So you might be getting even bigger drop in power.

Yes, but on-road gives more shock stress. And you are always letting out the clutch, where as this device in a plane would only have to start up once, and then its smooth running from there. So the question is, will it take shock? Something to ask the manufactures. It has to be tough and reliable to go in a plane. But who knows.

If you do the 6 stud convertion it barely looks not stock. You would have to know that old subies came with a 4 stud pattern. So I think no one would notice. But, remember, if you even touch your car it isn't legal. That's just life. Do the mods. Just make them look legal is what I like to do. What is a insurance man gonna know about an old subie? Next thing you know, I'll be complaining about paying a 1.2 million dollar insurance bill........ lol

I live where nothing much goes on, everything is expencive, and hard to get. Can anyone guess?? Just look top right of this message then. I have me self a Brumby, 2" lift, true duel motor, 27" Kuhmo mudders, 3" rollbar, alloy bullbar, umm, thats about it. Bot to mention the 12" sub behind the drivers seat, PDA as MP3 player (my CD player fried itself when something went lose inside) soon to have GPS. I got a CB, but still having troubles figuring it out. Oh, and I have doors, bonnet, fenders (that are cut ,) tail gate, oh kay oh kay ok. Little to far then. Too much free time But I don't have the targa tops :( :( I always wanted a Brumby with the targa's. Maybe some time soon.

Good point. Heres more info about it http://www.autoflight.co.nz I'm going to go have a look now. As for fitting it, what I would do is bolt it to the engine,probably put the flywheel and clutch on the out put side of it (keeping it in the trans side of the flywheel housing. And if I were really surius, I'd get a engine side flywheel casing and build the "gearbox" into it. I just asked the NZ autoflight guys how much it would cost plus shipping to AUS. I asked RAM, but they told me to save some money and goto the autoflight site itself. Time to go find out if it stuffs up the direction. On a side note, I'm lucky to be on my computer right now, last night my hard drive turned itself off while in windows. Then the computer crashed, I had to do a complete reinstall. Lost all my emails and stuff, but cos I keep all my important files on another partition I still have most of it. Just took me 5 hours last nigh fixing this damn thing Glad I know quite a bit about computers.

But you would have a deul range in the gearbox anyhow. Isn't it just asking a bit much to have this add-on adjustible. Screw on-road driving anyhow!

Look at what I'm on about here To save USMB some band width I saw this on the RAM engines site. Thought, maybe a crawler gear setup for a offroad subie? Just plug the output on a subie clutch and gearbox. And you have half'd your end gear ratio? Also good for lifted rigs? As the output is lower then the imput. Probably the only draw back, $XXX? Have we covered this option on USMB before? Just thought I'd share this with all, because all those posts Scott posted.

Don't forget the spacing of the exhuast studs is completely different too :-/ I was going to just drop another EA81 in my car, but once I learned I couldn't use my 2" exhuast I decided to spend $100 and get the duely fixed. Now I just have to live with STi fuel economy and the power of a 85 or so HP EA81. LOL! It would be nice if I had the stuff to do a flow rate test on the heads, I would really like to know how much better they really are. Ahh, just need a EJ

A member called Brumby Boy was looking at some wheels for his brumby. Theres a place that import un drilled wheels and drill them to your needs. Maybe cheaper to do this, tho I think the choise is limited. Yeah, legal is good. It just costs you lots. Can't belive a professional can't tell you what there made of just how professional is a professional?

Umm, It might be different in america, but. After running Castrol GTX2 for a year in my brothers 626 it filled the rocker area up with this horrid gunk. Black sticky slime. Took us over an hour to clean it up. And after wards the car seem to have another 15 houses! Later we heard from a mechanic that he Casrtrol GTX oils do that... I dunno if it just picked up all the old gunk in the engine and deposited it in the rockers or if it turned into that horrible stuff. By bro always uses Valvoline now.

Who here knows that the EA81 duel carb heads are different to normal EA81 heads? I found this out after trying to to do valve timming after putting the head gaskets back in. The heads have a EA82 style. The inlet valves are on the inside and exhuast on the out. Also there is a better flow rate thru the duel carb heads. But if you just want more carbs, a manifold would be good. Ben, what exactly did you want to try on the deul carb head? I was thinking about putting a turbo on my engine, or maybe a supercharger. With keeping the duel carbs of cause.

they look very clean Sorry, got no help for you just thought I'd say, good luck

But... if you want street wheels. You wouldn't want 6 stud ones (as they are only for 4x4s.).... I have heard of someone getting there hubs converted to 5 stud ones. I recommend taking your hubs to a mech, and telling them you want them to be XXXmm 5 stud hubs, and asking how much. Stuff the legal side of it, no ones gonna tell if its origianl or not.

Yeah, thats a very easy way to do it. Pop two studs out, place the 6 stud wheel on the hub on the remaining two studs, get out the drill and drill out the other 4 holes for the 6 stud wheel, get the studs you poped out, get 2 new ones, and hammer them all in from the back, bolt on the 6 stud wheel, and done. 15 or 16" wheel on a subie. Wonder how legal it is?

Got no idea where it came from. No idea who made it. All I know, is I like it