Phizinza

That was some pretty deep slush.. good stuff

Ok, found the it. Sorry for discrediting your high beam light theory. My manual doesn't show this, but the high beam light is actually connected between the high and low beam wires from the switch to the headlights. So when your on high beam the indicator light is connected to ground through the high beam wire and to positive through the low beam wire through the low bead filament through the original headlight relays. Man do they want it to be confusing when making these cars. Would of made sense if my manual didn't show the low beam wire going from the switch to the low beam filaments without any interruption.

You know it already, but... You're an inspiration

Excuse me for not reading all the other posts, but heres my opinion. Because it is a $10,000 minimum here in Australia to be caught without a catalytic converter, and your comments on not spending too much, I would suggest sticking with the standard Y-pipe's (Those are the Headers/Extractors). This is because catalytic converters cost $$$ for aftermarket high flow ones. And I really doubt you'll feel the difference in power between having stock Y-pipe to an aftermarket high flow y-pipe. Now for that note you want... Personally I think "cannons" or "fart cans" as they are also known make for a terrible sound on most cars. Get a 2" cat back (this means from behind the cat converter to the back of the car) setup. Put a long resonator in the middle, say 18 to 24 inches, and a straight through 2" muffler in the rear replacing the standard one.. Then either a 2" or a 2.5" tip. This will just change the note. 2.5" will be a deeper note, but I found my EJ22 with a 2" straight through exhaust and 2" tip sounded beautiful. Oh and about the intake... If you replace the standard airbox with just a foam Uni filter (pod style) you will get a awesome sound from under the hood. But they aren't as good at keeping water out of the engine offroad and you loose the CAI unless you make some shielding to direct cold air onto the filter.

....... That is how the high beam is wired standard, I did not wire it like that. I know that is where some leaking current can come from but I do not understand how the low beam wire has the same voltage and current as it has no light, nothing, attached to it in the diagram. Please read I want to ignore the highbeam for now (like I tried to make clear in all my other posts) because it is not related to the low beam wire having 6v when it shouldn't

I didn't change the drawing..... Just ignore the spot light wiring because I have the same problem without all that wiring. I posted a standard wiring diagram, and also my modified one which is above (the first one I posted). Oh, and BTW the "dip switch" is what I call the original high low beam selecting switch the all cars come with that is on the steering column. It is rated for BLOODY high amperage. And all it is doing now is switching a relay that needs little more then 50mA. So heres a diagram without the spot lights...

Call me old fashioned, but my handbrake does the trick all the time so why have more stuff under the hood?

Yes, I understand that and I realise it could (probably is) cause the problem on the high beam side of things... But there is the same voltage on the low beam. Now I'm only going on what my Gregory's manual tells me and that is the wire from the dip switch to the head lights has no more things connected to it. So from the dip switch to my new low beam relay there should be a straight wire with no connections.

The headlights are common positive. So keeping that in mind, you cannot run the low beam and high beam light through a relay to ground. I've just run them to the original headlights positive. My headlights are now common negative, and the relays "30" is connected to positive. Just like the diagram shows. Basically, right next to the battery I cut into the loom. I cut the four headlight wires, R RL RW RB. I then connected R and RB through 85 and 86 one and RL, RW on the other. Then the headlight side of RB went on the first relays 87 and the RW went on the second relays 87. The headlight side of R and RL (originally the common positive for the headlights) then went to ground on the battery. I added some wires from battery to a fuse box then onto the relays 30's. So only added wires were the fused 30's and extension for the R RL off the headlight to the battery negative. Of cause I also added the spot lights in which have a switch in the cabin that lights up when the spotties are on, so this needed to be wired like it is in the diagram for the light to work in that switch. The require two wires going from the spotties relay to that switch and some grounding wires. Heres a stock diagram I setup

... Here's a circuit diagram of my headlight wiring, now modified with relays. I've drawn a red line on the Low beam's negative. Now if that switch that turns to high beam and low beam wire is no longer connected (I've confirmed the dip switch does break the circuit 100%). Surely there is no way the coil on the relay can have power if that negative through the dip switch is broken (keep in mind the original wiring no longer goes to the headlights)?

Looks like the DC cam has shorter sharper lobes. Which is exactly what I thought it would have. This makes for a higher revving engine I think. Which is what these dualies are good at and made for. Rally cars need higher revs. And in ultralites and very small planes these dualie EA81's rev over 8k RPM all day long.

I take my tool box which has: 1/2" drive 6mm to 24mm sockets as well was 36mm socket for the axle nuts, 1/2" drive ratchet, 12" extension + 6" extension + 2" extension and uni joint, 1/2" T-bar, Philip and flat head screw drivers (short ones and long ones), Assorted Alan keys, Hacksaw, Hammer, 6mm to 19mm ring spanners, Pliers, end cutters, needle nose pliers, 6mm long punch (for axle pins), Feeler gauges, and blades/knives. I take a 4WD bottle jack (not hydraulic). 9m snatch strap. 3 to 10 litres of water depending on whats in the car. First aid kit. Spare ball joint, belts, hoses, fluids (oils). Then on big trips we take these extras: 2 to 3 more snatch straps, 20L water (this is for cars, not drinking we have extra for that), Arc welding gear (we use two of the cars batteries for power), Shovel, Silicone, Multimeter, Jump starter, Air compressor (although only if I'm not going with my brother as he has onboard air). And my brother also has all the winch gear for his 4runner: winch block, tree protector, shackles, etc. We don't normally use much of any of it. But we have had to weld in the past, also have had radiator issues. Always need oils. Snatch straps are a must. And with my brother he needs the winch as when a 4runner like his gets stuck, its stuck...

Ok first up, only those who have played with or understand Subaru (and most other jap car makers) headlight wiring will know what I'm talking about... When the steering column dip switch is on low beam the Red/White wire from that to the headlights (highbeam) should be disconnected and no current or voltage as it is then an open circuit. But no, theres about 6V with a 60mA current draw still. Its the same when on High beam the low beam Red/Black wire has 6V's on it. I've noticed this a while ago in my old Brumby but its been annoying me while doing a relay mod to the headlights in my 83 sedan. What happened was that 6V was enough to hold the relays on. I've found the solution with these resistor relays (they have a resistor in between both pins of the coil which draws that current away so the relay can turn "off"). But it still bugs me I can't find where this power is coming form. On the high beam it makes a little sense because the high beam light is earthed on one end, and because the headlights are common positive this could let power be drawn through the headlight and the dash light to feed that relay. But on the low beam it should be a straight wire from the dip switch to the headlights. My manual says it doesn't go anywhere else. But I'm not willing to open up the entire loom to find where this wire goes and where this power could be coming from. Anyone else noticed this? Anyone know what causes it?

a V8 Holden is like a if you managed to get a MPFI EA81. Its freakin old with some new tech sitting on top. I don't like them, kinda ugly/plain. Seating position doesn't work for me at all (the Ford Falcon is worse though). About all it does good in the driving world is go sideways (that's why TopGear love it). But that's just me

We made a caliper winding socket by cutting an old large socket so it just had two pointy bits to fit in the grooves the calipers have. We also made a pipe bender for 40 to 48mm pipe utilizing our 12tonne press. So many more, but its just a spare of the moment thing normally. The biggest tools we have is the one my mum gave birth too.

lol, love all the footy shorts... So glad they went out of fashion before I was old enough to remember

Ahh, thats cool. Looks tough, I like it.

You'd need tapers in the back of the wheels stud holes wouldn't you? otherwise they will never tighten properly and thats a bad thing.

with those tyres, do you get much spring rubbing on the front? My brother had to limit his lock with his 35x12.5 MTZ's, not by much but they still rub the springs.

Awesome, it will be great fun I'm sure.

Trailing swing arm suspension...

Sounds awesome, post up pictures when the work commences please

4" will make fitting the tyres much easier.. And it archives a certain look of a 4WD. I've found wide tires are good for Subaru's as well, skinny have advantages but wide tyres out weigh them.

Sorry but, I don't believe you until I see a dyno sheet. Too many "buddy" stories on the internet to take any seriously until proven.