Phizinza

This is the levers going into my 83 sedan, but you can see what they look like in this photo at least. Wrong side, but you can still see the levers on the 5sp, and see how it differs to the 4sp D/R.

It says 78-93.... But that model finished in 81? And in Australia we had the gen2 until 94. So what country does that video come from?

Personally I would stick with the 27's or 28's.. Gearing is everything The gearbox is well protected, no need for bash plate unless you have an auto. The engine sump needs a bash plate, I've found stock is not good enough as it bends easy and ends up bending your sump while its there. But most importantly you want to protect those exhaust pipes, they are th lowest point and are prone to getting screwed over by rocks (I just had this happen AGAIN). EJ22 limits at something like 6500rpm, nothing wrong with this. You really should shift at around 5500 to 6000 anyhow otherwise the power drops off and you loose. Think about water when you put the speakers and amp in.. EJ22's in older bodies are pretty powerful and they come with a pretty nice ignition setup already. Don't forget to do the relay mod to your headlights before adding more lightage, this really helps with lighting and you may end up saving $$$ on lots of lights. Sure having 4 or so extra spotties is great but headlights need to be good no matter what and its so easy. Don't go 2.5, its a waste of ground clearance. Go 2", its PLENTY of flow and sounds great. Oh, and if your running an x pipe you probably don't even need 2" as two 1.75" pipes has plenty of flow too. Sounds like fun mate, enjoy building it!

Like this? Or do you want one all assembled?

So I've done some checks. I put another gauge on, and it reads wrong lol. I took it for an extremely hard drive to find the point on both gauges that the thermo fans come on. On the original gauge the fans come on when it reaches that top red line I've drawn onto the attached picture. The other red line is the normal running temp I get while driving at 60 to 100 kph. On my other, aftermarket, gauge the fans come on at about 255F (just off the scale). So I took the rad cap off and sat a very good thermometer in the top of the radiator. Started the car and revved it at 3500rpm until the temp on the after market gauge got to 230F, just at that point when I let off about 2L of water poured out of the radiator. The thermometer in the top of the radiator read 97degrees (its an Celsius one). So we filled the radiator up slowly and again let it warm up just at idle this time. It got to 100degrees and boiled over slowly again, still no fans. So obviously the fans turn on at a higher temperature. I looked in the full service manual and it says the thermostat should open at 88C, mines a 180F which is 82.2C. And the thermoswitch should kick in between 92 and 100C. So the Fans should of come on, but they didn't. So I'm getting a new thermo switch. I'm hoping that after I flush the system. Get a new thermoswitch and put coolent in it. It will turn the fans on more often (like actually use them in traffic and at idle) and the heater will work. I'll just have to live with one gauge saying its boiling continually and another barely coming off the bottom.. We'll see

So I'm having an issue... Its 25 to 35 degrees C (around 85F) in Australia atm and I can't get my car hot enough to even work the heater properly. So I'm worried about winter.. I fixed the thermostat problem, and now its working 100% correctly. My gauge is right, and my thermo fan switch cuts in at the right time too. Its just to get it hot enough I can to go rally bashing at 5000+ RPM for more then a few minutes. Normal driving and it only just comes off the bottom of the gauge. I left it sitting idle the other day in the sun for about 10minutes and when I hopped in the gauge was half way between the bottom and the thermostat opening temp.. I'm confused.

Pretty well done, but yes its fake (first vid) I've seen all the others, like stated ^ classics.

Mine normally get stuck in the lever thus need a little pull once the lever is pushed back

Are you pulling on the cable? If so don't... Push the lever to the e-brake on position and then pull the cable while wriggling it and slot it out

I personally find my 27x8.5R14's too much of a gearing disadvantage... But I've watched videos of subies with 30" tyres, they just hammer them more.. I'd go a 4" lift, some 28's if its mostly offroad stuff that isn't rucky climbs. EJ22, D/R box. Some good recovery points (tow bars are great). Get some SSR's... That's what I want

make sure your hand brake isn't on too... lol

Because atm the power for the headlights has to go through the steering stalk switch, and most of the time you loose over a volt in that. In my brumby my headlights were getting 10.5 volts while the car was running on highbeam (battery at 13.5v). After putting in relays the headlights had 13v at them. Much brighter

I like those camo jobs down with large leaves.... grab a base color, hold leaves over the car and spray not completely around the leaves just 2/3 or so and not too thick. Varying the distance to go away from the leaf each time.

Maybe copy all the text out, add the right pic links, then forward it to a moderator to change the original post with the new links...

Delta cam + Weber and a full work over on the motor to make sure everythings in spec...

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=87000 Heres a couple I played around with about 3 years ago

So whats the obvious? Are you talking about the FT4WD EA82 vs PT4WD EA82 5sp's? They are both the same length so take the same shifter and propshaft. One has vac diaphragm to operate the 4wd gear the other to operate the locking diff. The way to tell these apart are the diaphragm cable on the PT4WD goes up high on the rear casing while the FT4WD one is down lower. They take the same clutch plate. Then theres diff ratios. Both came in either 3.7 or 3.9 (although I think the US PT4WD 5sp only ever came in 3.9). If the FT4WD S/R box is a 3.9 it came from an XT6.

looks like your headlights are a little dim? Have you done the relay mod? Its a must before adding any lights to an older car I reckon

100% petrol, unless stated as E85 then its 15% ethernol. This is actually a mates car and he just bought it. I'm pretty sure all the fuel lines and pump are original setup. We'll have a look at the pump and make sure its not that. The air filter was pretty dirty, I told him to get a new one asap. I'll also tell him to get a new fuel filter, although it doesn't give the symptoms of a bad fuel filter.

Its carby. Its only 28degrees c outside. So I would think its a heat generated by the engine not outside conditions effecting the fuel lines? Its only after the car has gotten warm. The car only has one thermo fan and no clutch fan and apparently gets warm in traffic but is ok once its moving.

How to solve it on an EA82 wagon?

Ok, some latest ones of mine

I'm coming to the opinion that the size of the exhaust from y-pipe to the back including the muffler is loud related and the tip is note (high or low pitch) related. But I've already come to the opinion that a 2.5" pipe gives no noticeable performance over a 1.5" pipe. So the exhaust should be made with what ever size to make the user happy sound wise.

When searching this forum for anything under 4 letters, like LSD, use the wildcard trick. That is search for LSD* There is no company that make lockers for front or rear. You can change the drivetrain, major fabrication work, and get lockers that way. Or you can weld the rear and remove the right shaft when on the road. I would not suggest a locked front though, the subies drivetrain is already weak enough. Add a locker and you'll be snapping diff stubs, axles etc. And unlike the rear diff a front diff stub requires splitting the gearbox apart.

Read both these threads, may help. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=95852 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=96214