Phizinza

Best guess.... Photoshop, look around the rear hatch..

The eventual sound I want from my car would be a stock 99 WRX. But I think that would cost me around $9000aud....

Not here... Without a muffler most engines go over the dB limit and the car can be defected. For an 80's car theres most likely no way to reverse the defect too due to all the other defectables cops don't see but inspectors do. Still, our racing subie didn't have a muffler and it sounded pretty nice. Personally I'm over driving on the road with a loud exhaust though...

You can adjust both those screws on both carbs easily while they are on the car. The onr on the right in the carbs casting is the idle mixture screw. Set this to 1.5 turns out. Set the idle screw (other one in that pic) the same. Get the car running and warm, you might need to adjust the idle screw on both cars (do this exactly the same on both). Once it idles (or close too) while warm adjust the idle mixture screw on both carbs until they are running smooth (go out until it gets rough, go in until it gets rough and then set it in between. Both of mine had to be set an eigth of a turn out of sync with each other to both run steady and smooth. Now hold a hose to your ear and to the top of one carby, then to the other. Go back and forth between then slowly adjusting the idle speed screws until the car is idling right. If they don't sound the same through the pipe no matter where you set the idle speed screws adjust the mixture ones until it does. There are better ways, but they involve buying expensive tools. As for those thick pieces. I believe they are there to stop vapour lock from heat in the carb. The water passages don't matter, they don't even go far into the carbs. The gaskets don't need to be exact for the water side but best if they are for the air for obvious reasons. And yes, you need a gasket on each side of the piece. I ended up having to take my carbs off again and ended up just making gaskets out of the appropriate material because it was 10x cheaper then buying more gaskets.

So I've just swapped some exhaust parts around. I started with 1.75" y-pipe into 2.5" to the back with one muffler. I welded a factory 1.5" y-pipe back with a resonator and 1 muffler in. Then welded a 2.5" tip on the back. The stock mid and rear made the car sound almost stock and fairly quiet. Also it made it sound like a dodgy old 80's car. But it got rid of the drone in the cabin of the car. Putting the large tip on gave the car a deeper note (not quite as deep as it was 2.5" all thru) but didn't bring back the droning or the noise. Performance effect was not noticeable, keep in mind this is on an EA81 dual carb 101hp factory. So my thoughts are... Unless you've got forced induction don't bother with modifying your exhaust unless you are just going for loud. And if you just want a different note then ok go for a 2" cat back with 1 straight through muffler.

Haha, thats so awesome.. So what diameter and thickness tubing is it? My brother and I built a bender fitment for our 12ton press that does 44 to 48 OD tube. Tired a piece of 38nb with 4mm walls, bend was very nice but was extremely hard on the press and actually broke a 12mm grade 8.8 bolt half way through the process. Then tried a piece with 3.2mm walls and it crinkled a bit. Still haven't gotten around to using the bender for any purpose yet though.

That's pretty good. What did it start with? I'm used to torsion bar rear end where you just need to bolt a long shocker in and you get long travel.

So... After my last Subaru (My FT4WD Lifted Brumby with EJ22) I decided my next car was going to be comfortable, nice in the turns and decent power. But then budget struck and a year after selling the Brumby I bought another Subaru. This one, the 83 leone sedan, runs the same motor my Brumby came with (EA81dc) and a 3.9 5sp D/R. Also the same 27" mt's. So obviously its not what I actually wanted and said I would aim for. I'm now not completely sure how I convinced myself this is what I wanted but now I have it and I'm stuck with it til I can aford something better. This isn't a question, or interesting info, its just me wishing I could buy sometihng better. The problem I have is... I like 4wdin right, I also can really only think of owning 1 car. So my options are, buy a towing car and have a car trailer with offroad rigs built on the cheap or buy a 4wd. Now any 4wd other then a Subaru is not going to do what I said in my first paragraph. So I really see it as I'm stuck with Subaru, or towing car. Now I do like the Towing car option, but if I done that I wouldnt be able to go for a newer nice Subaru because they just aren't rated to tow more then 750kg (and we get over $20,000 fines here for going over the towing limit). Now in between owning the Burmby and Leone I had a 79 V8 Mercedes, beautiful car, but it was only bought for another project and I finally sold it because that other project fell thru. What that had was power, towing ability, fairly reliable except for the electrics, and style. Of course being a v8 meant paying v8 rego which sucks. And also even though it was pretty good on fuel for a 29yo car it still used 16.2mpg. But I did like the luxury, and I was thinking about getting a 90's merc, maybe with a 6cyl.. But some say the ones after 82 were made in africa or something and are ____. So I'm not sure, they do seem to sell pretty cheap for what they are... I guess I'm just gonna have to stick with the subie this year, do the mods I want and maybe it might even be a reasonable car that I'm happy to drive anywhere. But atm I'm not happy with the loud exhaust, not happy with the stupid dual carbs, not happy with the body roll (gonna have to put a antisway bar back on I think lol!) and not happy with 0-60mph in 9+ seconds.

File! ... seriously, could you just file the caliper? I mean if its a distance difference of new or old brake pads then you could surely just take a bit of the caliper off, if you were certain it wouldn't cause it too all explode:eek:

Is that 5.5" more travel or 5.5" more height.

Rear yes, front absolutely no

Yeah, helps a little. A bigger or closer picture would be of more help. Does anyone know if a wagon rear bump bolts to the same place as a Brat rear bumper?

Very sweet. Love the VW bug look too. I'm just getting into CAD myself, trying to make some little subie upgrades. What type of pipe bender are you using? Got some pretty sweet curves there!

I'm after photos of the back of a Brumby/Brat without the rear bumper on...I'm mainly interested around just below the tail lights. Cheers,

Would it help if he made one with chuck norris on it?

Hmm, that 43 tooth gear isn't much larger then the 37 tooth gear..... Maybe it wouldn't be hard to fit 2:1 in a Subaru box, or maybe more? Hard bit is finding enough people who want better gearing at the cost lol... Nah, just upgrade to a 4runner. Its what my brother did and now theres very little that can stop him. Nice runner mate

Not enough keeping with the old Brat's style IMHO. Too much like all the utes (pickups) we get here in Australia, just square cut boring look.

If you didn't adjust your toe after the strut lift you'll have horrid toe in.. Best to have only 2 to 4mm difference back of wheels to front of wheels on the front.

Fun

That's as far as my body working skills go

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=87000

Is this a complete 2" body lift? Or just the struts?

:-\ just what I read on this forum. I know they use 40psi pumps, but a pump will only generate that pressure if flow is restricted enough on the return line. I also know EJ22 OBD1 fuel pressure is regulated by vacuum, or at least mine was.

Darn.... Was hoping for a chopped up WRX... Just get to see another EJ converison Nah, all good mate. Might looking Brat you have there.

Stiffer springs? Can't think of anything else which would hold the car level. Its like there is front to rear antisway bars..