Phizinza

Because bigger is better

The Superlites? Over here in Aus they aren't so rare. I didn't want to run alloy wheels or 15's so I sold them.

Sorta like the colour scheme on this Porsche, except a bit more light and yellowy. Like the bottom pot in the other photo.

Months ago I found this photo on the net. Can't find it any more and only just realised it was saved on my phone.. I was thinking maybe this colour with the red perhaps..?

JesZek, I plan on getting some industrial 2 pack urethane paint, like I painted the car with. I have plenty of the primer for it still. But if I can't get that one in a small enough quantity in the colour I want for the price I am willing to pay I'll probably just end up getting some tough enamel. Very clean looking Brumby there dfoyl, it looks good. But I don't think I want to go the black. It's a toss up between white and grey now. I'm guessing the price of the paint will determine which colour I go...

I have had three quotes from local powdercoaters. I dismissed the cheapest one as I used to work for a place which sold powdercoated fences and had many many many issues with that companies powdercoating. The highest price included gritblasting and two layers of coating, that was $750 for the 5 rims. For $400 I can get the 5 rims single coated (standard) through a company we used to have good luck with. The cheapest I can get just the gritblasting done is $30 a rim, that's already $120.

I do like the chrome trim but they aren't so good when you are bashing the car off the beaten track. I like that blue you have mate. Pink, hahahaha... Maybe.... No. I don't want metallic, as it will stand out too much from my gloss red. Maybe I could do a dark gloss grey, similar shade to gunmetal? White is classic, but kinda boring as well. And you have to do a slight off white which is has to get colour matched as the paint shop doesn't have an off white standard wheel colour. If you want to wire me $400 Tony I'll get them powder coated.

I'm acquiring a set of 14" Jackman's for my red Brumby. They need a blast and paint. Trying to decide on colour. So far it's either white, matte gunmetal, copper. Thoughts? I'm leaning towards matte gunmetal. Copper will probably stand out too much and it's not a show piece of a car, just a work ute. White does look good, but it's quite normal. Heres the car, and heres the wheels

Yes, found that out. EA82 rack is female m14, EA81 tie rods are female m16. I'm going to make a piece of threaded rod with both threads to adapt.

Bringing this back up from the dead as I've found all these three racks (RHD) are the same length, it's only the inner tie rod ends (rack ends) that are longer. So I see no issue with geometry running any of the other racks with the EA81 inner tie rod ends bolted to it.

Thanks Scott, so 1 inch difference tops? Toonga, why would I make the crossmember drop the gearbox and than drop the plates which hold the radius rods and gearbox crossmember as well? Yes Uberoo, with a conventional lift that is the case, but I'm thinking of just dropping the gearbox with the crossmember which will need to be modified anyhow, leaving the plates that it mounts to firmly against the body. My concern is the angle of the radius rod rubbers and the extra twist it will cause on the control arm rubbers.

I'm putting a 5 sp into an EA81 body. I'll be doing a 2" lift. I was thinking of just adding the 2" into the customised crossmember instead of putting spacer blocks in. The issue may be, that the radius rods will be at more angle. Could this work? Has anyone tried it before? Too much wear on the rubber joints?

That should read "ARB made an air locker for the R180 and it was discontinued back before 2007" Edit: I stand corrected. It looks as though it's been brought back into production. Still too much money for a Subaru, and plenty of screwing around.

The steel you would need to make this out of is very high carbon with case hardening... Highly doubt you could just cast one... To machine it you need a lathe, 5 axis mill, spline cutter and to make it affordable they all need to be CNC. Printing stuff, although it sounds like the be all and end all, is very limited in use.

Oh, one of those lockers did sell a while back. The amount it sold for wans't disclosed but it was around the $1500

I've only ever known of two cars with the Detroit locker, never seen one in person. In not going to put something I spent 40+hours designing on thingiverse, sorry. Of course if there was no chance of making money off of it I would, but it's still on the back burner and not in the junk bin yet. Even if you do all the patenting they can still just go copy it in China and drop ship it to every where (illegally but they get away with it). There is no copy right laws in China

I looked into patenting, was going to cost $20k plus for a decently prepared patent that is unlikely to be worked around and avoided when copying. And that's only a patent for one country, you have to get it for every country you wish to sell the product in...

It would most likely be too small (weak) for RWD datsuns. They seem to just upgrade to the R180 or 200. $$$$ is what stopped me. The problem is the setup cost would only be regained once you've sold more than 100 units. And at the price you would need to sell them you really would struggle to find 100 people willing to pay.

Indeed.. I didn't even think of doing it with math... I'll do some measurements next time the hood is up

Because it is against Australian Design Regulations.

Thanks for the info naru

Thanks TOONGA, the method in Venom's post was the method I had come up with myself before asking this question. I just would like to know how long I need to get it machined to before I take my car off the road.

Yes, I did forgot to. It's an EA81 Brumby. Has manual steering at this point in time but with the lift I will be putting power steering in it which completely changes the unis to another version. I have two Liberty/Legacy gen 1 and 2 unis which are 26mm longer than the EA81 P/S uni, I have a GC WRX uni, identical to the Liberty ones. And I have a Gen 3 (BH) Outback uni which is 70mm longer than the P/S uni. So I have nothing that is correct and will bolt in. I took a guess at what the standard angle is on the steering shaft between the rack and the column at 45 degrees. I marked it out on paper and too measurements for a 50mm and 100mm lift variations (I will be only going 50mm as you cannot legally lift any higher without getting a engineers cert ($$$$)). At the 45 degrees guess a 50mm lift would require 43mm extension and a 100mm would require 90mm extension. I guess these are ball park figures I can try and work with. I will also have to see if I can source a Forester uni to measure. Thanks

Yes, really I do want it. My gauge takes about 4 minutes to come up to the accurate position and there is the odd occasion I want to see how much fuel I have without sitting in the are with the ignition on for a while. So it's most likely a brake on the gauge that is held off with power. Hmmmm, that would be harder to retro fit than just some wiring. Thanks

Actually the extension is related to the engine crossmember blocks. I cannot weeks weld the steering due to road rules, so I need to get a piece machined up to match a 2 inch lift. Hoping to get the measurement before taking the car off the road.