Phizinza

Yeah, only way you can keep the old pump is if you run a surge tank. Old low pressure pump pumps into the surge tank, high pressure pump pumps out of the surge tank into the engine and back into the surge tank. Only need/want to do this with older EA81 non-turbo cars though.

No, pumps are the same pressure. Its the engine that runs different pressure. The SPFI lowers it to about 22psi. While the EJ uses about 45psi. The pumps are good for upto 60psi I've heard.

Too all those Yota's out there, Pifffft! SUBARU FTW Seriously though mate, very nice... Might just have to build one for the fun of it! Trailer Queen for me of course, stupid Australia. Nah, probably will never happen. I'll just come visit sometime and demand a ride.

Looks the goods. How much longer are the shock bodies over standard? Like bottom pin the top of the body? I like my 83... Torsion bar and all.. Makes life so much easier. But you work with what you got I guess.

+1 Ontopic, in this case I'd just buy the alloy sheet and cut it oult like I did. Doesn't cost mcuh at all and is really really easy.

Congratz mate... Have fun drivin!

Everything looks like it works at the identical time. Thinking for now just going with a single weber until I can affrod twins

I sync'ed them pretty good (not with a machine but by ear). It also didn't do it 18months ago in the car I had it in and it did it in the new car before I balanced them. crash321, Do you mean solenoids or diaphragms?

As in idle cut solenoids? Or what else is the purpose of these "solenoids" that you speak of?

EZ30?? Nah mate, EZ36 is where its at! lol This thread should probably be closed before bd.... topic gets brought up again.

It's not back pressure you want, its a tuned exhaust. Getting the right size pipe and the right lengths of it will yield results. Oh cause most cars are made with very restrictive exhausts to some may run rough with a beautiful flowing one because they aren't tuned right for it. I've found on most < 2L cars that a 2" pipe with a straight thru turbo style muffler makes them run and sound good. But for me I want something quieter, so I'm still figuring out that.

Is your wife ok? Doesn't look like the most light hearted thing that can happen on the road

5sp EA82 D/R Manual, so the box can't have any control over the motor. Has to be either the EA82 disty I stuck in there (timing looks good and steady not all over the place) or my carbies. Wish I had the cash to swap on some webers.

back pressure is a myth

It done it when my thermostat was installed wrong (stupid me, it fell down while bolting it up so it sealed but let plenty of water through) and my engine wouldn't get warm enough to use its fans then. And now I've fixed the thermostat it still does it when its nice and warm. I don't think its related to heat.

My dual carb EA81 is "hunting" at 60kph speeds. So in 4th thats about 2000rpm. It sort of goes fast then slow etc. Very annoying. They are similar to standard single carbs. Hitachi's of course. Anyone know the reason they would be doing this? Thanks.

any old spray paint I've foudn... Just make sure you remove the rubber first other wise it doesn't work to well after! haaha

I just used a thick piece of cardboard (not box type, single layer type) and placed it against the EJ engine and used a ball peen lightly to mark the cardboard. Then placed it against the EA gearbox lining up the two bottom holes (because these two bolts are the same alignment EJ to EA) and marked it agian. Cut the cardboard out, placed it against my 12mm thick alloy plate, measured the distance between the two bottom bolts got that right on the cardboard template. Mark it down on the ally, drill and a jigsaw and there ya go I had a adapter plate. That was the one I just sold because I ended up playing around with gearboxes instead of using an adapter plate.

I'm assuming he means cut half inch off a useless EJ engine's bell housing. Then drill the holes needed for the EA gearbox. Then use it as a adapter plate for another EJ engine that still has its bell housing.

When the ECU gets ignition power it should prime the system with about a second of pump run. Then when the starter motor is going it pumps, when its running it pumps, but if it stalls the pump stops. So the pump has to be run by the ECU using a sensor that knows when the engine is rotating. Maybe either the crank or cam sensor does this and either or both have failed, or not wired correctly? Or maybe the ECU gets its signal that it also uses to power the pump from a different sensor that has failed? I'm not much use but maybe something to check?

Is that codes 12 and 23? If so start switch and airflow sensor. I'd guess resetting would cure the starter switch code?

haha.. sounds good. I just sold an adapter I made for $60 to someone. I dont plan on EJing another subie of mine for a long time.

Oh yeah.. Sorry about that.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=87000

Looks pretty good, although I would of done the front differently like move the radiator and slope the noes done. Looks like a heap of fun, wish we could drive buggies around the streets here.