Phizinza

Gearbox mounts are different and you'll need to custom something to work. Propshaft is a different length and will need to be shortened to work. Axles use a different spline, you'll need to find the right DOJ cups or complete joint from the car the gearbox came in that will fit your axle shaft. EA82 Flywheel re drilled to suite EJ22 engine will be needed along with the adapter plate and possibly a XT6 clutch because of the extra weight your car has and extra power. Although a EA82 clutch will fit. Small wiring mods for reversing lights and neutral switch (the new gearbox may not have a neutral switch in which case I don't know if your ECU will be ok with that or not). The EA82 shifter plate should probably fit in fine replacing the EJ one, although you may need to make room for the new 4WD lever. Not sure what else there would be to do...?

Unless you have a FT4WD 5sp you use the EA81 shafts. Using the 225mm EA81 flywheel with EA81 pressure plate, EA82 friction plate and EA82 throwout bearing you need to space the starter 4 to 6mm out so it clears the flywheel after started. You want to use the throwout bearing that matches the gearbox.

I'm gonna bring this thread back from the dead because I just updated my Brumby's page and added my new Leone to CarDomain, heres the links Brumby http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2442027 Leone http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3241562

Maybe if you could do it cheap/free... But for those $$$ and adding all that weight just doesn't make sense to me if you want hp.

Never mind. I went down the block and found two other alternators (god knows where they came from) and put one in, charges fine and only draws 0.01amps now (which might just be my multimeter). So all is good now. I still would be interested to know what went wrong, but not interested enough to open it up and investigate.

"Top 10 Most Beautiful Subarus" More like Top 10 Most Common Subarus Justy is plain, EA82 wagon is no where near RX coupe, and thats no where near the EA81 style IMHO, Bug eye Imp's are just ugly. 99-00 model was the best IMHO, That's not the hottest Leg there is, Foresters are piratical, not hot, 360 deserves it, just cos its classic Brat is obviously in its rightful place SVX mmmmm I could make a much better list.. In fact I might just do that later when I have some time. And that the ???? is with "GL Wagon: This beauty made its way to the States in the mid-seventies" That is obviously a 85 to 94 model...

But how would a bad diode do this? I know diodes to just die completely. Oh and can I just make sure, even though it is all factory wiring in my car, is the sense wire supposed to be directly connected to the charge wire right after the alternator? If I have to pull the alternator apart and replace anything I'll just ditch it, I have another alternator that works well just has too much mud in it and thought I'd swap it instead of cleaning lol.

So when the car is off, the sense wire on the alternator (the one on the plug marked "S") has a constant draw of 0.24amps. This is a EA82 alternator (I think 87 or 88 model) on an 83 EA81 car. Is this because they aren't compatible or is it because the alternator is screwed? I looked all through the wiring diagrams and can't see how they aren't compatible. But with my knowledge of electrics and my dads knowledge and help I can't see how it could go wrong like this yet still charge fine and cut back fine?

Heres a link to an old page about it

I like using Google as my converter. As in type "100cc to oz" or "3.75inch to mm" or "5km to miles" etc etc. does most of the simple calculations. Google is also a great spell checker, if you not sure on a word just copy and paste it in Google and normally it pops up right away with the word you want. Unlike MS Word or Firefox's spell checkers.

I would imagine if you had enough mufflerage to have a quiet exhaust on one end this valve thing would leak exhaust pressure and when in quiet mode would sound like a bad rusted out hole. If you had a free flow exhaust you wouldn't get this problem, but it would also sound good enough already.

I was helping someone change a clutch and they had the firing order writen under the bonnet and had each spark plug marked too. Problem was, it was 1-2-3-4 and the spark plugs were marked 1 front right, 2 rear right, 3 front left, 4 rear left. So they had it right sort of....

You need the link to the website that has that page, not the link to the page on your own computer like you have given.

My brothers old wagon, thought it might be fun to add some more lights! And my brumby before I sold it, a 165 rectangle Hella mounted behind the petrol tank for rear lighting and two 12v fluro tube mounted to the side of that support beam under the car below the seats. I also ran two 165 rectangle spotties on the bullbar and the quad lights used 100w H1 on the inners and Narva +50's H4 55/60w on the outters. So much light the road signs were blinding.

EJ and EA82 gearboxes use the same spline. EA81 4sp D/R's are a smaller spline. Can someone explain this? Maybe in the US Brat's got a more uprated gearbox? Or maybe the 5sp EA81 2WD boxes use the bigger spline and its a 2WD clutch? I'm

They use a bigger version of the EZ motor, I think EZ36? So there is at least something in common! haha

, your can't have an EA81 friction plate on an EA82 gearbox.. The splines are different.

I heard the cost of calibrating a dyno as often as it should is way too much and that's why they all read different and "wrong". Still, its nice too see the line and where you get the power. I don't pay attention to the final highest number though. To me track times are more important. I bet that wagon would fly though, too much fun to be had in it.

Those pics bring back good memories chux! hahaaha. It is good fun once you figure out what your doing. Chop chop chop!

Have you ever seen a dyno sheet that does cross at the correct point? I haven't Nice wagon btw, for a EA82 body style anyhow!

Too all those out there wanting to do the EJ swap just remember you cannot put standard fans on the front of the radiator with standard wiring. They blow the wrong way! You need to get fans made to fit to the front and blow the right way. Some std fans can just have their wiring switched (this although can cause bearing problems and may not work effectively as blade design etc) but some cannot be run like that.

I always pull the engine. Seems easier to me. So much work involved dropping the box out and lifting it back into place sucks! I acutally took the engine out to put my 5sp in, just bolted it to the engine and put them both in the top at the same time. Easy as pie.

The cars left and right, not yours when looking under the hood.

They are at the top, but because the casing is two hlafs left and right the hole is in one side. Only slightly, but it is. Enough to effect clutch cables. As with the 5sp conversion in that RHD Australian cars you need to replace the cable with the longer 5sp cable. If the levers were the same you could just use the same cable. Yes, the physical size of the 4sp is about 17cm longer then the 5sp The 5sp AWD EJ boxes are shorter again, by around 40mm I think

5sp has the clutch lever on the left side of the box while 4sp has it on the right. The low range lever which is right up at the bell housing of the box is on the left side for 4sp and right side for 5sp. 5sp also has a shifter plate with two rods connecting to the back of the gearbox. 4sp has the shifter mount into the top of the longer extension rear casing of the gearbox. It may be a 2WD EA81 gearbox, in which case it will be very short physically, have no propshaft output but will have 5th gear and a shifter plate. Pretty obvious to see if you look underneath.