Phizinza

You don't need to grind the bellhousing if your EA81 has a 225mm clutch. Just fit the friction disc from the EA82 in the EA81 pressure plate and flywheel then space the starter motor out 6mm. Its what I done with my 5sp swap in my EA81 Sedan. The wiring is slightly different, especially the coil and disty wiring. But not hard to rewire.

You can only fit the SOHC EJ's in the Brat. Unless you like cutting important stuff. You can get most EJ's in SOHC. The biggest being the EJ25. But the SOHC model of this apparently sometimes (more often then others) has bad headgasket problems. The best one is the EJ22, most reliable and good low end torque. If you want to keep low range and 4WD you don't want or need a EJ gearbox. Just use an adapter to bolt the EJ to your EA gearbox. Also because the 4sp has worst gearing, is weaker and more often then not reverse is blown or will blow with the EJ engine you'll problably want to find yourself a 5 sp D/R EA82 gearbox. And you might need a new rear diff which matches the new gearboxes ratio. There is many many write ups on the gearbox swap around here and Numbchux has a very good write up on the EJ swap and what is involved. Go have a look.

I don't want to sound like a wongleflute, so please just take this as my own opinion and not what you "should" do. I would stick with one or the other. I've done just the tyre thing (you know, one street set one offroad set) and it is a PITA. I'd just go one way or the other.

Coilovers screw up the suspension travel you can get out of the torsion bar setup. I'd say get a new set of torsion bars and keep you good long travel shocks. Also you might want to check the torsion bar adjuster bolt, as there are two bars and if both are broken I find that hard to believe. Perhaps someone took the adjuster out so the torsion bars didn't work so they could run coilovers with it?

If you have inserts in your struts (something I have never seen personally in Subaru's) then you can take the insert out and weld to the strut. But don't weld to a standard one, they go bang with I nice large flame (had to do some bash mechanic welding to the rear of an EA82 shockers once). Welded rear with RWD, it will take it. But like everything it puts more wear on all the parts. After awhile my guess would be the DO/CV joints will open up and cause a lot of backlash. Then finally break open and you'll loose drive as the joint explodes. Or, I have heard the gearboxes don't like it and they stripe the gears out for 4WD. Really depends on what you drive on. If its mostly soft (dirt roads, ice, snow, etc) then it would probably be fine. I have had a similar thought on the rear brakes. Never went ahead with the plan because making the backing plate to hold the calipers precise enough wasn't possible for me.

Yesterday was 44c, today 43c and they reckon tomorrow and the next will be in the 40's now... Hottest heat wave recorded for over 120 years where I live. Bring on the global warming! Oh and ontopic, I just uploaded 5 more vids (some of the 4runner) and posted a link in my other thread about the offroading I done the other weekend. Haven't done much else because its too bloody hot outside, and inside its almost the same.

More videos up on a playlist. Check 'em out http://www.youtube.com/view_play_list?p=D0C1F64FC25D578E

At standard height there should be almost no positive camber. Lower it an inch and you'd have a little negative camber. You are still stuck with crap Negative caster though. You would need to lengthen the radius rods by about 25mm or more to gain a positive caster (what race cars use for a bunch reasons you can find out about in google). No, front hubs cannot be used in the rear without $$$/time doing a complete new rear end fabrication. Hilux locking hubs go onto the spline of the shafts, Subaru's splines are different size and count. So it is not possible to use them.

Its now 47C, or 116F in the shade. And my place does not have aircon! It was 43 yesterday and they are predicting 40's for the next two days, then high 30's for 2 to 3 days. fun fun

I mean EFI rated rubber hoses. You might be ok with the smaller steel return line. But please don't use plain carby rated rubber hose! I've had a car light on fire (from battery problems) and it really isn't FUN!

Just remember to use EFI rated hose on the feed and return lines. Would hate to see what a 40psi fuel pump can do spraying fuel all over your engine through the 8mm pipe

I posted a thread in here with some video... Couldn't be bothered uploading the photos. But there is a couple as "attachments" on my forum, just can't link to them here unless your a member on my forum. It really is just too hot to bother. 42degrees C here and getting hotter.

Took my new-to-me 83 Subaru Leone converted to 4WD offroad last weekend. Here is the video. Didn't have my picture camera with me but one of the other guy's girlfriend who came took a couple of photos but only of my brothers 4runner so I'll stick with the video in here for now I'll post up some more video as I get it on youtube. Both ball joints got screwed over by the mud and I am not willing to drive the car anymore til I fix them. Fenders got a bit dented and some tire damage due to guard rubbing. Looks like I'll need to bash it a fair bit more to stop the rubbing. Had to buy a new battery on the way because mine died completely (was kinda a dead battery anyhow). So that really didn't help with the budget! Otherwise all went pretty good. Was a hot weekend, 35 to 39 degrees C. But we were camping next to a river so went for a couple of swims which really is bliss when its hot and sunny like that. Great weekend all up. Oh, some photos of the 4runner here if you would like to look http://offroadingsubarus.com/forum/index.php?topic=478.30

When this was posted I was offroading.... Now its so bloody hot I just could not be bothered playing around with the video and posting it up. And got no photo's of my Subie doing its thing, only my bro's Toyota pics and that's apparently "not appropriate" in here

I am leaning the same way atm. My problem is I can't afford a towing vehicle. So I'm stuck with a Subie as it drives there, then offroads, an then comes home. Do it.. If you have the space that is, and a towing rig.

Think maybe we need an 09 version of this thread?

I like it, but can't imagine it taking much of a bump. It's tucked very close to the body. If it bends, so does the body. But it does look the goods.

I want quad lights on my sedan!

On dry pavement can you stick it in 4wd and pull it back out? If it comes out while driving, then its the same diff ratio as the rear diff. If it doesn't you'll need to find some gravel and lean on that shifter pretty hard

Because the EA82 5sp has the same size gears/synchros and diff in it as the WRX 5sps. And you know how much power they take? They are a beefy box. Pitty the synchros are cheap and shotty (lucky for me mine are brand new

Wiring...? Thats the fun bit Top one is after I pulled it from the EJ. Next is it cut down getting tested. Final 3rd is it ready to go in all clean. This bit was fun, just chop chop chop

I would be very interested in what the end result looks like.. hatchsub, got any pics?

The first setup for intake I had on the Brumby I don't have a picture of the setup it had when I sold it, but it was basically the same pod filter and MAF coming straight out of the TB using a straight rubber pipe. The reason I done this is I went in some deep water that came above the battery and my pod filter got wet. Luckily my engine was ok.

Skip, Cam shaft is standard dual carb EA81 jap spec. Hasn't changed since it was in the Brumby. I've got the timing set to 11degrees BTDC. I had it set to 8 BTDC when I got the brumby the engine came in and I set it to 14 BTDC. Never made that noise. The only things that have changed since the engine was in the Brumby not making this noise have been: Stripped down the carbies, cleaned them, put them back together with new gaskets. And also cleaned up the vacuum piping, replaced some pipes with new shorter ones etc. Removed a piece of pipe just after the y-pipes that had all sorts of "adapters" in the middle of it ending up in the 2" pipe being less then 1.5" restricted. Put a 2.5" exhaust (I know, over sized and unnecessary but I had the pipe and the bends sitting there) after the y-pipes. I was thinking maybe it was removing that 1.5" restriction, but I've got a video of it with the old exhaust cut off after the cat (which is just a hollow box on the old setup) and it made the noise, not as bad maybe, but it made it. The carbs haven't been change/rejetted etc. But maybe when I stripped them down something went wrong..? Dunno what could of. I didn't miss any parts putting them back together. It did also backfire the other day out of the carbs? Just after coming off throttle at around 2000rpm then coming onto the throttle from idle it backfired, and sounded like it was the carbs not the exhaust. I will have a listen to the balence at different rpm's today

I balanced them, pretty easy. But still getting problems with exhaust noise, sounds like fuel is burning in the exhaust maybe. So I think there is something screwed with my carbs. I think L2.7 might be right in saying weber it! But what size webers.... hrmmm. Other option is convert to LPG and put a turbo on while I'm at it.. I have a manifold with a TB mod'ed to it already (was my megasquirt spfi project). Just would need to get an LPG installer to install gas to it and for me to build turbo headers with up and down pipes. Then add 6-8psi and I'd be cruising. Of cause I'd loose about 10% power with the LPG, but the turbo would make up for it. And LPG being half the price of petrol here, might be a good idea. Still not sure what I'm going to do. Its just is really pissin me off and I have no idea what it is or how to get rid of it.