Phizinza

Cool, just interested really as no one here in Australia would dare to anything different to the norm. That's why I like it here, learn different and new things all the time. I done this to my EA82 5sp crossmember to work in my EA81 sedan Done one before just like it for my FT4WD EJ D/R in the Brumby as well.

Megasquirt II costs like $250 in kit form. With enough know how you can plug it all up pretty cheap. But carbs are easier.

I'd say no smaller then 4500lb. My brother had a large one on the front of his subie and it was more of a burden to his offroading. This is because it was 40kg on the front bumper. Subies hate weight offroad

Interested in those sturt extensions. Are they bolted to the struts or are they welded?

Transaxle bearing to be sounds like the propshaft (tailshaft, whatever you want to call it) bearing. Because this is a EA82 car it has a two piece propshaft. There is a bearing in the middle of this shaft that holes it to the body. Used propshaft from wrecker: $50 Time: half hour.

My brother has owned two X1/9's, sold one but his keeping the other for a project. Its getting a Lancia 2L DOHC from a Thema. His on xweb. The clunk is probably because the tyres aren't evenly worn and its slightly binding the transmission.

HEY! You said you deleted that photo!! Lies!! there is no cake!

Clowns

I done a write up on my 2ws 4dr sedan 4wd conversion http://offroadingsubarus.com/83sedan_4wd.html Because yours is an auto you won't have to cut like I did. But the rest of it applies. Of cause, there is the EA82 coupe, which may be confused with a hatch. Subaru Hatch (EA81) looks like This (Link) Subaru Coupe (EA82) looks like This (L:nk)

180 degrees F is std I think

Fair enough. I should read the whole thread before posting

http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI_doc.html#preparing_distributor Reading it now

Cam timing and ignition timing is my bet.. Check and make sure its all correct.

Rubber flaring and mud flaps now on.

Tested it, and its fine, not the problem. But I did have it plugged in wrong. It was piped to the top of the carb, not the intake manifold. So thats changed now, but no difference in how it runs. I had a look at everything the EGR does and figured its better to just keep it then plug it. Does nothing bad.

I think I know what needs doing... but please confirm. This is points to pointless conversion. New bracket to hold disty to block, make one or is there one that will work/modify on? drill a hole in EA81 gear and pin to EA82 disty. Wire up a pos and neg plus coil wire to the electronic module type disty. Anything else?

^ thanks GD, thats what I was after. I knew you'd be able to answer this one. Probably should of just PM'ed you. I can't get the breaker plate, and the vacuum advance diaphragm will cost $95AUD. This is too much. The guy at the auto parts shop has an EA82 though, and it may have a pointless disty. In which case I'll be converting to EA82 disty on my dual carb EA81 to keep me going. Hopefully EA82's didn't suffer the same vacuum advance problems..... See new post about disty conversion http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=785523#post785523

That is assuming I can get new parts for this old thing... I'll find out tomorrow (monday)

Hitachi I believe I've already stripped it down and found the breaker plate was rusted up and the plastic that holds the balls is broken, going to need a new breaker plate. But my question isn't related to that, I shouldn't of mentioned it. I'm just asking about the vacuum diaphragm.

What about the springs, that's what makes them high.

The diaphragm isn't leaking vacuum, it will hold a vacuum quite happily. Just it doesn't move under my suction like the manual says it is suppose too. It springs back fine as well. I just can only move it with my fingers, because its tight.

Looking at the height of the sump and engine crossmember compared to the hubs and brakes, looks like you have 1 to 1.5 inches suspension lift over stock height.

I'm in the process of rebuilding my Disty, its vacuum advance wasn't working. The "breaker plate" was all rusted up and the plastic ball bearing holder was broken. But thats a different story. What I want to know is how tight are these diaphragm suppose to be? Can you make them move with your mouth? My Manual says you are suppose to be able to make it move by sucking on the diaphragm inlet. But mine is tight, it does move, but not with me sucking on the inlet.

Looks like 4.11, rings a bell from back when I was looking at getting an ARB R180 locker (when they still made them).

That's a 4" or more, 2 and 3 inch lifts aren't that high! Nice setup, I like clean look, no rough work showing.