Phizinza

SuperSwamper 27x9.5R15's.... If I lived in the US I would have those tyres in a flash! I wouldn't even care about wearing, look at them!

Play with this http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

This is on top of the engine, it goes from under where the spare wheel bolts to the top of the engine. Make sure the rubbers are good on this as well, both ends.

You know where the starter bolts to the gearbox? Well that surface to the engine mounting surface is a smaller distance on the EA82 5sp then on the EA81 4sp. The EA82 flywheel's gear sits the exact same distance closer towards the engine. This means EA81 and EA82 starters are interchangeable. But if you use EA81 flywheel on EA82 gearbox you need to space the starter away from the gearbox otherwise there is a chance the starter won't clear once the engine is started and it will whine and eventually the bearings will burn out.

No plans for lift atm... I could fit the tyres so there was no point lifting in my mind. I actually really like how it looks with no lift. Got rubber flares to put on it now. Should be good.

To test the bearings, jack up each corner of the car and wobble the tyres, they shouldn't wobble on the bearings if they are good.

Because the engine is not a subaru engine you could probably either just make the adapter plate right or you could just space the start motor out until it works once its all bolted up. I put an EA82 5sp on my EA81 and had to space the starter 4mm out so it would clear once you let go of the key.

I don't want to plug it to give better power or economy. I just have a theory that the valve isn't working right and its letting intake gases into the exhaust making some nice popping sounds. Where is the vacuum line on the EGR valve suppose to be on the carb? intake side, above the butterflys, or at the top above the venturies? Maybe mines opening at the wrong time because where its picking up vacuum from?

The distance between the starters mount and the bell housing mount is different though, by 6mm (EA82 being the closer one). This is bad up by the flywheel as the starters are interchangeable.

Between the y-pipe and this muffler is there any flexy joints at all? Normally the 4sp has a solid mount onto the exhaust at the back of the trans. Might be what you need. All that flex could be bad for your head exhaust studs and might also cause leaking around the head.

One man power subaru.... I bet its faster then a stock one!

Welcome to the crazy train. We've only got private 4wding places here in South Australia now. With the exception of some beaches 350km away.

So the consensus is you can't leave that vac valve in there because it causes problems? My thoughts were that it just opened a passage between the EGR pipe coming from the exhaust in the head to the intake, and if the EGR was blocked off both ends it would then do nothing...?

Just test the heads with a straight edge (steel rule) and feeler gauges. If its with in spec forget about machining. It will only take life off your motor in the long run when it does warp and you can't machine anymore because the intake manifold no longer lines up.

85 - 89 wagons I believe. No, they mount differently with better mounts.

Normally once I've got an engine turning over and it won't start I check: Fuel, make sure the carby has fuel in its float bowl, have a look in the throat and see if its is wet with fuel. Spark, pull a plug lead off, stick a screw driver in it and hold the screw driver near (2mm to 4mm) the engine and try to start, it should spark. Air, make sure the air filter and passage ways are clean. Or take the air filter off while trying to start it. If it still doesn't start after all that is correct I find how to set the motor to TDC, then set the points (if it has points, was working on a cafe racer Kawasaki the other week that had points) so they just open at TDC.

Just wondering, will it be ok to just put plugs in where the pipe goes from the head to the intake manifold and leaving the vac valve in there just doing nothing? Or should I take that vac valve out and put a plate over that too?

If you search PCD and wheels on google you'll find it is a much used term. A lot of wheel manufactures use the PCD term a lot as well. I use it. Here in Australia we don't have "lugs" so its a "bolt pattern" for what most commoners know it as.

This is why I like talking to you old school guys. No offence intended. You don't just say "you'll need to get them balenced by a shop". OR you need to buy a kit to do that. Cheers mate, I'll give it a go.

I have a thread on here somewhere with the pictures from my old EJ/FT4WD/Dualrange gearbox swappies... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=71100 That should be it

^ Skip, so your saying use a tube to get a ventury effect on top of the carb and listen? Then set both to sound the same? I guess use two pipes, one on each ear? I could go 32/36 Weber's, but I think that will be too much air, plus I don't have any money to spend on Weber's and my dual carbs have givin me good economy and brilliant power. The std carbs are sometihng like 20/27's? And there is quite a large range at the bottom of the pedal that does nothing, so I believe they are oversized for the type of driving I do (under 5000rpm).

Hitachi(s)

What model/age is the car and what colour are all the wires you have there... I can look it up in my manual wiring diagram if you want.

Nope, this time I just got new rods, the rest is std. I might be "making" more of these to sell so I'm not keen on saying how/where I get them. http://offroadingsubarus.com/forum/index.php?topic=512.0

How do I get it right? How do I know if it is right? If I screw it in and screw in the idle up as well it idles good while warm. If I screw it out and unscrew the idle up it idles good while warm. I can't get it to idle good while cold though. And I'm having thermostat problems right now so it ain't getting warm.