Phizinza

Working gauges are that important then... I would invest in some aftermarket auto gauges, like oil pressure and water temp. Good luck with the new motor. I'm liking my EA81 atm

They are awesome... Long lasting, tough side walls, loud on the road, wicked grip on dirt, bad on the black top in the wet, kick arse offroad...

With case mods and no low range it could most likely be done.

I'm actually seriously contemplating putting a solid axle under my unlifted 83 sedan.. I'd probably link it up ford style with 4 arms and a panhard rod. Then just by a locker to fit the axle I would use.

The black n red one is probably the resistor bypass wire. It is made to give the engine full battery volts while starting. This is because the starter drops the volts very low and then the resistor on the coil drops it again so you end up trying to start on 8 to 9 volts on a 10v coil. The plug one looks like it should plug into the fuseable links box. And the black n yellow should go on the negative side of the coil.

Thats with 26mm longer radius rods (I have DIY custom adjustable ones )

My brother drives a 4runner with a rear auto locker, no problems on the road. Can't see why you'd need a selectable one, the auto "un"lockers do a brilliant job and are much easier and cheaper to make.

I hope for your sake its just something over looked and not serious. Good luck mate

Subarino here in Australia done that coupe/hatch light thing a few years back. As for the low range, not enough room in the gearbox. But if you have casing and spline cutting abilities, you could use FT4wd, or AWD gearbox and make a low range or two where the 4wd gears usually go. You'd need to use an FT/ AWD gearbox because the front pinion isn't part of the output gear shaft on those. I looked into getting r160 auto lockers made a while ago. Found a guy but he was incredibly unreliable. Lucky I didn't loose much, just a $20 diff. It is possible. But you will need $$$ and patients.

Want better handling? Lengthen your radius rods by about 1 & 1/4 inches. It makes a world of difference. But you'll have problems with your tyres not lining up in the fenders.

I would think large valve EA81's would be better then the older small valve ones. But I have no idea when or what both those models came in. Also make sure your strut tops are in the "Wagon" setting and not the "sedan" setting. As this will give better caster as well, only a little though.

I was told by an old guy at a local exhaust shop and he said you can't make a 1.8 quiet 2" pipe, just too much flow no matter what muffler or something like that.

Personally I'd want it to run good between idle and 3000 rpm myself. So getting away from the technical side of it. What would be a minimum size without really feeling the effects of power loss do you all reckon? Because as we know, smaller = quieter. And I'm past the loud obnoxious exhaust noise of a 2" straight through pipe.

I have found the rubber joints on the swing arms stop the down travel before you get into trouble with the CV joints in the rear. Because those joints don't take any turning angle they can go a fair way. The thing you want to make sure of is the bump stop bottoming out before the shocker. This one is important.

Nope, I stuck a 5sp D/R (which was another story entirely) and a wagons rear end in it. I've got a thread in "Old Gen" about it, called something like "I'm back in the subie game" or something. I've never seen a stock EA81 sedan either. I do like them in 4wd kit though, much better then when it was 2wd with crappy 13's.

If it was smoke not steam then it'd have to be the headgasket. Hows your temp gauge? Working? Whats it read when spitting out the coolent?

My EA81 is a dual carb, so it is about 100hp vs std 78hp or EA82 86hp. So I'd say I need slightly larger pipe then most EA engines not including turbos. "3" downpipe into 2.5" exhaust and muffler", When you go from 3" ot 2.5" this isn't an issue with the exhaust? Does it help over having 2.5" downpipe into 2.5" exhaust? What I'm trying to ask I guess is what is the reasoning behind having a larger pipe behind the turbo and then go smaller again?

Keep it coming guys. Now we're getting into the good detail. This info is for me to decide what to do about my exhaust but I'll leave it out of it just so it doesn't become the focus of attention. So after the y-pipe it doesn't matter what size piping for the flow velocity? Bigger just means wasting pipe?

Subie flat fours keep pretty cool. I think the engines just aren't worth the paint lol. Nah I would paint mine, but its in an offroad car so its just gonna look like brown mud in a few weeks.

I assume the box in the photo (in the link posted earlier) is a radiator box, as in the piping from the manifold goes into it and there is a pipe from it to the radiator. Well that's what it looks like

If you have a manual gearbox the rest of this applies: I'd say locking front or rear diff with an AWD box that uses a centre VLSD is just asking for trouble. You'll burn up that centre diff and its not the easiest thing to replace. If your serious, I'd be getting an old RX gearbox, putting the centre diff from that on the back of your Forester box (and also get a D/R Forester box if you haven't got one already). Then you'll have real 4x4. Then you either need to spend $$$$ on a custom locker or $$$$ on a independent suspension diff that has lockers already made for it or go solid axle with a locker. I wouldn't put a locker in the front either because the CV's are already under enough strain in a Subaru.

Cheers, but I was referring to N/A EA81/82 engines. I guess there isn't really such thing as too big (although I have read that there is, but the difference in performance is so small you wouldn't notice it in an N/A car). I guess I'm not asking what is optimal for power at 5000rpm, but more what is optimal for power up there and also good low end power. Oh and if I may ask, about what is the smallest you can go without affecting the high end power by much? Obviously because I'm talking in "abouts" and "much" etc I'm not wanting fact figures. Just near abouts figures.

What would the optimal Y-pipe runners and Y-pipe back exhaust size pipe be on an EA81/82? This is to have good power at 4000 to 5000 RPM and still have good low end pick up power. Thoughts?

Low range reduction on PT4WD 5sp trans is 1.59 to 1. Low range on FT4WD is 1.19 to 1. 4sp's are 1.46 to 1 If you look at the chart, you can see it has a "Low Range" field and it shows what your asking for.

Due to front fender running I had to do something. I started on making 50mm strut lift blocks for the front. The idea was to stop the struts going to far up that they hit the fender. When I went to try them they wouldn't fit, as in I couldn't get the knuckle low enough to get the strut back in. The driveshaft was over extending the DOJ, the steering had bottomed out the joint, and the rubber on the radius rod refused to move. This got me worried that there would be too much down travel because it would rip all the parts apart, mainly worried about the driveshaft (them being $44 S/H or $110 new). So I measured the travel of the std 2WD shockers I have, 135mm, then I figured out the gap between the tyre and fender and the down travel I get. That being 40mm gap and 60mm down travel, so I needed to take 35mm off the fenders. So off it comes... This is the standard fender getting its first trim a while back (this picture was posted on a previous page). This is the next trimming that I calculated I needed if I got 4WD shockers and taller springs. But this would still be a problem because the travel would still go as high as the 2wd shock it would just sit higher to when on flat. You can see a line on the fender that follows on from the cut on the left there. Thats where I cut it off. And this is our final trim. It now lightly rubs on the battery tray/jack holder part of the inner guard when turned. But Roger says only by 5mm or so, nothing to worry about. It also lightly rubs on the front of the rear tyres, needs a bit of hammering but won't be noticeable. It needs some rubber flares, I'll get them soon. Sitting pretty And what she's made for