Phizinza

FINALLY got it running! Just in time for this thread too! haaha 83 Leone 4WD, EA81dc, 5sp D/R, 27" Kumho's, welded rear diff, no lift. Its needing a bit more work, shifter rubs two piece propshaft, need rubber flares, and other small things. Reversed up here for fun, but the clutch didn't like it And a "sitting pretty" photo.

^ Yes, it was in my Brumby/Brat. Motor had a pod filter, exhaust was standard y-pipe into cat then 2" straight through pipe.

Every where in my manuals for EA81's that pipe is referred to as an EGR I believe. So I always thought it was what an EGR is and that is a device for taking exhaust and putting it into the intake manifold. Hence the name Exhaust Gas Recirculation. I have seen what you are talking about Skip on other cars but it plums into the airbox, not the manifold. Thinking of that, my airbox does have a unused port with the same rubber "valve" thing those other cars use? Maybe the original headers had ports coming off going up to that port on the airbox? My EA81 goes not have a ABV, and I know they are a pain and pretty much useless anyhow. I'm contemplating removing my EGR. I have the parts off another engine to plug it up. If it is what I tihnk it is and has failed then it could cause the problem. If its what Skip knows it as then it could also cause the problem. But my brothers EA81 subie used to do it and thats the one I have for the parts to block it off. So I can't think that it would be the whole problem. Happy 25th of decemember anyhow.

Skip, I can understand all that but it only applies to the EJ in this case where I'm leaning more towards my EA81 and why it does it. My EA81 doesn't have air injection. It does have the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) but that should only put exhaust from cyl 1 and 3 back into the manifold for burning. And I know this isn't what does it (or at least not all of what does it) as my brothers subie EA81 didn't have EGR nor a mates 88 subie. I've seen many cars from the 70's and 80's with those air pumps. Lots of toyota's, even my 79 Merc had one. Most have been unbelted, blocked up, ripped out etc though. Maybe when you pump lots of air in there it gives it more of a "conrolled burn"? I was speaking to my dad about it. He's thinking maybe its got to do with the vacuum advance. When your at high revs and you come off the throttle it has no vacuum advance?

Yeah, like I said lots of Subaru's do it (all?). But what is it. Ignition so far, I'm wondering how the ignition system could make a difference while your under deceleration with no throttle. Hey, even my EJ22 done it, and that's fuel injection that is suppose to cut fuel all together while decelerating.

^^^^^ Yes ^^^^ Yes ^^^ Points ^ Yes I do still run a points disty, never got around to getting the better one. But I don't think this is what causes it. To me it seems like there is too much fuel while under deceleration. I guess if you have better spark burning that fuel before it gets to the exhaust then it might help? I've read its common when you have an exhaust leak near the heads. It sucks air in and burns in the exhaust making popping sounds. Could the EGR be failing and actually be letting air from the manifold to the exhaust?

Just wondering what people think makes Subaru's backfire on over-run so much? Mainly with larger exhaust systems I've noticed.

Due to toe issues with the rear torsion bar I had to work on it. Had huge toe out on the right wheel and toe in on the left. Also pretty bad positive camber. , some welding and drilling fixed that. Now a little toe in on both and only a tad positive camber.

I'm thinking your right about the springs. My front is very soft, and from looking at pictures its sitting about 30 to 40mm lower then a wound up 4WD strut. What I'm wanting to do is cut the fenders so I can drive it with the 27"s on but when I put taller 4wd shocks and springs in the fenders aren't higher then the rear (higher as in more gap between the top of the tyre and the top of the arch in the fender). Atm I have almost an inch gap, but when I sit in it it touches

Ok, tried a search but couldn't come up with anything. Just wondering if anyone knew the height difference between the 2WD front shockers and 4WD front Shockers on EA81 cars..? Thanks

Oh no.... The Australian disease of going out and just doing doughies, burnouts and drag racing has caught on to the Americans... Just kiddin mate, I know it gets used for other stuff too...

They look good for 13's. Nice silver Brat too.

I looked at my EA82 wreck and the adjustment in those three bolts is ridiculously small and would only go a fraction of what was needed on most Subaru's I have seen. I've looked at every thing on the rear sus on my Leone and have determined unless there is a magical invisible adjuster that its going to need cutting and welding. Where is that 3mm measured from? Measuring from drum to drum (220mm in dia) there is a 3mm difference from front to back. It looks terrible but after doing the math it is only .78 degrees out for each wheel. At a guess the camber on the rear is at 2 to 3 degrees positive. Doing the cut and weld/drill job I said earlier should fix the camber too. That will come later, now I need to clean and rebuild the carbies again....... EDIT: Heres my fix (how I've found is the only way to adjust a Subaru) http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=778795&postcount=33

So I have huge toe out on the rear of my new Leone, measured wheel to wheel front is about 8mm longer then the back of the wheel. Also huge camber issues, but in knowing how to adjust the toe I'm sure I can adjust the camber. I had a good look and tried using the page Numbchux posted in an old thread about adjustment http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c108/Numbchux/EArearcamberadjustment.jpg But the EA81's are different. They don't have that bolt up by the "crossmember", which in the EA81 is a torsion bar. And the three bolts can't adjsust more then a MM because the holes are close fit. I can't see how it can have this much toe out and be un adjustable. So whats the trick?

Just a small taster of what else has happened.

In the linkages to the back of the box (4wd gear part) there is a deliberate slop made into the system so when your box moves it doesn't pull it out of 4wd or low range. It is an elongated hold.

EJ22? Been there done that, I prefer my EA81 If I was going to a newer motor I would put in an EZ30.

As far as I know you have to use strut top spacers. These can be custom made or bought.

I was talking to a guy the other day who sad people used to put a Harley carb on each of the subaru motors. I would imagine you would need some off of a very large V twin. Mounting would still need little custom manifolds because of the water jacket. So my thoughts are you may as well run two small Weber's on each head

I got my 4sp EA81 Brumby with std tyres to 160kph, down a hill. On the flat nothing over 145... They have a wind resistance issue.

Yeah, ihscout54 is most likely right. Sad, because I love these old cars. I live in Australia and older American cars are rare here.

I was talking to my dad about it today and we came up with something that may help, putting bellows flanges right up near the head, this will allow for all the movement it should ever need. My new setup has the y-pipe mounted to the gearbox just below the diff solid, and then after the Y there is a bellows joint, then another rubber mount to the body. But if I can find some short enough flexy bellows joints then I'll weld them in. I've put the broken aluminum piece with the helicoil in it have into the hole it fell out of using some JB weld, and with a screw going through the head from the side into the stud to hold it. When I pull the motor out next time for the rebuild I plan on giving it I'll get it welded up properly.

Part of the problem is, this engines been thru three different cars (because its a dual carb) and Its been in and out of those cars so many times for things like gearbox swaps, engine crossmember mods, exhaust upgrades, etc. Another part is a dodgy fix done by the first guy to start with. I think all this would of been averted if the quality of the alloy was better in the first place. But its up to me to either stay at it or go to a better quality product. I'm not good at building something, and then leaving it that way. I always keep improving and building more. When I got my last Subaru to how I dreamed it to be, I got bored and sold it. The fun is in the building, not the owning for me.

The red hatch looks like TSJ's old hatch, is it?

justyj12 > The EA81 dual carb heads have wider spaced studs then standard so you can't run standard Y pipe on it. It is a "custom" y-pipe, but there was aways slack around the studs. What I heard is they are 9.5 to 1 compression ratio, and it is all gained in the pistons. You say that are 11 to 1??!?! And if the heads are thinner, how did they go about with the intake manifold lining up? Mine fits a standard manifold and dual carb with no problems. Yes, I know they are pretty good for what they are. I was just pissed off that they aren't what they could be with little extra dough. I guess its not the companies fualt but the people how aren't willing to spend more to get quality. If I owned this car, and this engine, from when it was new, it would be in much better shape because yes I would of used all those products such as antiseize on it to keep it new. grossgray > The first stud I fixed I just drilled it out and put in a larger one. Then that stripped so I drilled it out and put in an insert, then that one broke out so I needed to take the head of to get it welded. This one I am having trouble with now stripped, then when I drilled it all the metal swarf that came out was brittle and chipped out, I tried cutting a thread in it but no luck so I took it to a local guy to weld up and he done a shotty job, so now I have a large hole where a stud needs to go. Going to have a look at it today and see if I can do it without welding.