Phizinza

Front shafts turn... And on Subarus they turn a lot. Puts a lot more stress when you have travel and full lock on a CV

Hmm... You send me a hatch back and I'll send you a Brumby. k?

weird eh that a lot of aussies want a US style bumper.. You could make your bumper look similar by taking out the metal part and leaving the plasic corners?

http://offroadingsubarus.com/pda_gps_console_mod.html The brand of the metal case is INNOPOCKET

There'd be wiring and fuel delivery to figure out. Oh and exhaust.

So McBrat did you have to grind or drill out the flywheel at all?

Cool, I thought it should be that easy but some "know it all" on another forum said other wise.. Thanks!

When I done my EJ conversion I swear my EA81 flywheel and EA82 flywheels had different bolt patterns to the crank that is. Ended up just using EJ stuff on the conversion so thats why I'm not 100% sure.

When putting the 5sp d/r on an EA81 engine what has to be done the the flywheel? The EA81 in question has the 225mm flywheel size same as EA82's. So could I just use the friction plate from the EA82 in the EA81's pressure plate and flywheel? Why would that not work? I've read the EA82's flywheel either needs to be modified to fit or the EA81's flywheel needs machining down?

I have no experience with it but I would imagine your center diff would have a lot of pressure put on it with the car trying to always just spin a front tire. Which in my experience is the last place you want to put traction when going up a bumpy slope. LSD or convert to 4WD I reckon.

Your standard Subaru low range gears are very unlikely to fail as they are at the front of the box and don't have much torque on them due to no previous gearing. The only thing to worry about is the 4wd gear. The EJ box would fix this because there is no synchros to fail there but you then get lack of extra low range and its no stronger elsewhere in it. I would look at Nissan boxes. Basically the Subaru family and people seem to think they are tough. Same output splines on the rear too I think.

The Justy is a Suzuki anyhow..

Or just weld the rear diff and go anywhere with crap tires in stock form!

Turbo's are fun to play with. Personally I prefer the driving characteristics of N/A engines. But I reckon the turbo is the way to go in your case.

I don't think where you live is going to have an effect on finding the dual carb parts or whole dual carb motor. You'll have to probably find one from overseas anyhow.

Try shifting the 4wd/lo lever at speed, like 30mph. Drive in a straight line and use the clutch to shift out of low range. Then without the clutch just push really hard down on the lever for FWD again.

When my brother and I made a 2" one it cost about $180aud for solid alloy block lift and steel front strut lifts. It was that or $550aud for a BYB one at the time. BTW, 2" is the highest we can body lift here so thats why only 2".

It's not all JDM EA81's like this. Only a select few performance models. I have one too.. I read 101hp on a Ultralite website (their the dudes who picked most of them up years ago and thus hard to fine now.)

5 years ago that was all the rage. But now people have seen that its pretty much the same amount of work to put an EJ22 in which has more power without a turbo. And its more reliable. Just stick with the simple stuff. Open up the exhaust flow, stick a weber on it, play with the timing and do the other service stuff. New good oil can actually make a difference on a dyno you know, so all the little stuff adds up.

Are you talking suspension lift or body lift, or either? You can do as much body lift as you want without changing the angle of the axles. Suspension lift can go about 1.5" over standard EA82. I think XT's and RX's sit about an inch lower then standard? So say 2" of spring lift? Really depends on how you drive. I used to have about standard height on the front of my Brat and went through S/H axles every couple of months. Couldn't afford new ones. My dad's standard subie never needs axles because the way its driven.

The Honda front springs lift the rear about 1.5". But as my mate found out the spring bottoms out before the bumps stop or shocker and can (did) push the bottom spring mount off its place on the shocker. And don't try and weld them back on..... First question I would ask is Why do you want a lift? Clearance, looks, to fit bigger tires, etc?

I miss the days when lego was good.

I think the point here is they didn't treat Zap like he would have like and how anyone would have like as far as I'm concerned. And what do you do with a place like this? You leave them alone so they can sit there making no profit selling nothing because they fail

What your missing is its 165/75 and 175/70... theres a .4% difference. And most speedos can be out by up to 5% out of the factory And thats not even taking into consideration that most tires are different by up to 5% as well. I think it was Zap that posted a picture of 5? different 27" OD tires which varied in almost 2" OD size.

My EFI fuel pump used to give a loud whine. Like audible over the the EJ22 with 2" open exhaust.