Phizinza

When I photochop bobbed my Brat a while ago I made all the measurements and took as much as I could off the front that would acutally work in the rear. It was 6". With a custom bumper that would really make a Subaru better offroad. Oh cause you'd need the rad mounted in the rear.

Top gear style, shoot the floor pan! Looks fun scott, should be good not baing able to mud up the rear window!

My brother had a car that had mags. The center cap on the mags, about 1.75" diameter, on the left front was slightly loose and caused a weird rattling noise arounf hard rights. Only found out what it was when he sold the car. The most obvious place to check is often the last. This is probably because the most obvious place is the problem and once fixed you don't look anywhere else.

Sorry, the EA81 is still my favourite motor and I'm keeping mine for a future project. For now I'm going to put it in another Subaru, put waist spark total electronic ignition (like the EJs have, no disty) and rebuild the carbs. Then go have fun offroad. But I really want to build it up with high comp and twin webers one day. I would like to get it to be reliable at 10K RPM and maybe 140hp NA.. But that will be a while down the track for sure.

As far as I know all the ones Australia got were imports. Probably all from Japan. Wasn't there a EA81 hatch in Japan called the SRX or something? Was that what this engine came in?

They are pretty rare here in Australia (at least the full deal is rare, the carb setups aren't so rare). I think NZ has a more or at least easier to get. Most of them I tihnk have been used in ultralites. As those guys have known that they are a great engine for years and bought most of them up.

I'd roughly fix it up, weld the rear diff and take it to some offroad trails. Maybe even demo durby offroad it. Still plenty of fun and life left in the car.

No, has no special name. Well not that Ive found anyhow. I just call it EA81dc (dual carb). When I first signed up here 3 years ago everyone just thought the dual carbs were the special part and putting the manifold and carbs on would give you those power figures. But it is a whole engine deal. 9.5:1 comp, reversed vavles and performance reversed cam to go with it. larger exhaust diameter out of the head. And of cause the dual carbs.

Its not just your engine that can be a problem. Awhile after doing a bunch of water crossings my Subaru started making clonking and creeking noises at every joint. Water has a way of getting through seals. Ball joints, steering joints and even bearing seals. By front bearings died in less then a year (after I replaced them with brand new ones) and when I looked inside it was all rusty grease and a little water. Its a lot of fun, and I'd do it again. But probably not in a car worth more then a couple of hundred bucks.

they come with 185/75R14 right? That's almost 25". So half an inch around the tyre shouldn't be a problem I would assume.

Oh... I would of thought you'd have plenty of imported ones.. Oh well, I'm sure theres plenty here in Australia willing to help (for a price, cos thats all that aussies are really into lol).

Crossbred Performance is making 5 stud kits again. Shouldn't cost too much to ship over to NZ but they do cost a pretty penny. I guess the radiator is going in the back?

Your IAC valve needs to be conneted to your intake pre MAF. This valve is on your pass side of the trottle body. IAC = Idle Air Control With the intake like that you will get a strange loud humming noise which may turn out to be a PITA like it was for me. It only goes away above 1500rpm or so.

I have one of these EA81's. I believe they were nick named dual port heads due to the split exhaust port. Theres a thin wall in the middle of the port that goes right until the end of the head, the std EA81 ports join up in the head and are don't look like "dual port" There is however two places I know of (SUB4 in NZ and RAM in USA) that make new heads for EA81s which use real Dual Port design. RAM Engines were doing a super charged EA81 which was pushing 200chp I believe not so long ago. The Jap spec dual port EA81's like I have came factory with 101hp (I think there was two models and one was slightly more, I just say 101). The Standard EA81's came with about 78hp. You can feel the difference, and when mine was running well it happily reved over 8k RPM. Something the dual carbs have to thank for I think.

I would buy one of those, scale or real. I love it. Some people are so talented.

Now this is an idea I think is good. Not to hard to set up and will work well with a rear auto locker. Shouldn't need more then 1 solid axle. My brothers 4runner does about as good as an unlocked Subaru just in RWD

New Zealand is a good place to get a EJ D/R from as well (they have kind laws and taxs on importing and exporting)

Personally if I were to convert a Subaru to solid front and rear I'd go buy a better truck. Subarus make great cheap good road cross over cars. If you want to offroad better, go faster or buy something else. Oh, is this why the offroad section is dying, because of comments like this. Sorry. If you really want a Subaru and really want great offroad ability, then go for it. Its just a hell of a lot of work.

So I calculated the offset of the rim roughly and they are about 26mm offset. I used to run 25mm on my EA81 and they are perfect. 23mm stuck out a little. EA 13"x5.5" wheels are around 58mm I think. So I'd say your fine. They will work good. Just because a wheel works on one car doesn't mean it will on all. Different brands, ages, models etc use different fender overlap. Some 4x4's even have factory flairing and use less offset or even negative offset rims.

As a reply to your first half of that post. And this is for the US as well as Australia. EA81 4WD D/R boxes were 3.7 and 3.9 (to me it seems totally random which models get which ratio) with a 1.49 to 1 low range. EA82 4WD D/R boxes were 3.7 and 3.9 (same as above) and came with 1.59 to 1 low range. Loyales did not come in D/R. EA82t 4WD/FT4WD D/R boxes ran 3.7 diff and 1.19 to 1 low range. For Australian EJ D/R boxes: Liberty's (legacy's) from 89 to 97(?) gad 3.9 ratio with a 1.19 to 1 low range. Outbacks ran the same low range, but not sure of diff ratio. Foresters (not sure on year) came in 4.11 ratio with a 1.44 to 1 low range. I have been told the 1.59 to 1 low range will not fit with a 4.11 or 4.44 diff (unless the crown wheel is machined). For a easy and affective bolt in dual range gearbox for an EJ you probably want the Forester gearbox. For the middle of your post: You can buy the scorpion gears or easily modify the EA82 low range to fit in a Liberty gearbox, alitte more work and you can fit it in the Forester and outback boxes. You can just get the inner joint cups from an EA car and put them on your axles I believe. A bit greasy, but saves buying new axles. The cup is just the part that holds the ball joint and slots onto the spline out of the gearbox. Propshaft would also need work (longer I think). For the last part: Just buy a Forester Dual range from where ever... It really does sound like what you want. Its not the best, but its a no mod (except shifter linkages) setup. So many people are asking questions about gearbox mods after I done my Brumby (I really shouldn't of shared all that info) but really not very many are ready to do that kind of work and because they don't undertand what is involved they get carried away thinking its easy just because its doable I guess. Oh well. I've put info on this subject in so many posts now that the word it out for good and there are going to be a lot of confused people. Sorry about that

I really think I would of heard about galvanized Subaru's if it happened. Not to say it didn't, but highly unlikely with my obsession on info about Subies.

I'll just add, if it hasn't been said already. Putting the EA82 part time 4wd or full time 4wd gearbox in will either require a body lift of 2 or more inches or some beating to the transmission tunnel. The transmission crossmember will need modifying, or the old 4sp mounts modified to fit the 5sp box. You will also need the 2 piece propshaft from the EA82 car. You will need to mount the center bearing that the 2 piece propshaft uses as well. Its all pretty easy. The shifter plate and stick is pretty easy to fit as well although the dual range lever will need some thinking and work. Putting an EJ transmission in will require a modified crossmember. A custom length propshaft is needed as there is no bolt in option from another Subaru (EJ gearbox is slightly shorter then EA82 gearbox, EA82 is a lot shorter then EA81 BTW). The shifter is the same except without having low range its easier. EJ trans bolted to EJ engine with EJ clutch is much easier then mixing, drilling, cutting and grinding the flywheels and adapter plate stuff. Although you can just buy this stuff from a member or two on here. (Sorry, never remember the screen names of these people.) If you only wanting it for dirt roads and street put the EJ box in. If you want to get into anything that needs an offroad tyre use the dual range EA82 box.

Fiction, at least for Australia and the US

I know its in the background, but this is my brothers old wagon which has now been stripped and is sitting there rusting (he bought a Toyota :-p)

When I fitted my FT4WD box I used the Liberty's shifter, all the rods and everything. It was into a Brumby though. But it all just bolted in. The Brumby even had a bolt ready to take the shifter plate (weird as the old 4sp shifter didn't use it.) Most L series (EA82's) I have worked on no longer had that brace bracket attached. Didn't seem to make a difference.