Phizinza

Sure you can put me under "purist". But when you follow behind a 4runner with 35" MTZ's and two diff locks you don't want to be hitting this terrain at any speed. I believe crawling over things and scraping under body panels slowly is better then just jumping the lumps. Less damage in the end and more fun. But not everyone wants or does offroading as hard as some of us. Some just want to drive along the easy trails for what ever reason they have. BTW, when you say full time it usually (in the case of Subarus, Nissans and Toyotas at least) means centre diff with locking mechanism. So full time (FT) is just as good as part time (PT.)

What caused it was a lack of $800 that I was willing to spend on new sensors and a rebuild. I don't have a job per say right now so money is the biggest issue. Doing a full EFI conversion to an EA81 is pointless in my mind, you may as well spend that little more on an EJ which is EFI already and bigger and more power. I just want to solve the stupid disty problem EA81's have with an electronic ignition.

I've run a EJ22 Brat in the past, I don't want EFI, it pisses me off. My carby engine never broken down and left me stranded. I do see the benifits of EFI, but the cost, setup time, tuning and possible problems when everything goes under water puts me off. Plus all the issues my EJ gave me. I have plans for dual webers anyhow. I've been looking at the Megajolt though. Looks like what I want and need. But I need to find out if ford used EDIS in Australia on any 4 cylinder cars. Over the years when ford used EDIS we didn't get many (or any?) 4 cylinder fords that I know of.

I want to do away with the Disty on my EA81. I was thinking an MSD ignition like the MSD 6A. But from all that I've just read they seem to still use the disty, just controls the coil a little better and more power. But if the disty gets wet its still screwed like before. I was thinking more along the lines of putting 2 or 4 coils on and having a completely computer controlled ignition running on a crank sensor, some what like the EJ's do. I'm waiting to be a member on the MSD forum but hoping someone here that someone has done something similar with a little knowledge could help me out? More research has showed up that MSD 6 unit really isn't going to do what I want. The one that will is the DIS-2 which costs way too much. I want programmable timing and advance. And can control 2 or 4 coils for independent ignition per plug. Any suggestions on other brands to look at?

EJ center diff is VLSD non-locking. Means you can lift one wheel and it will spin and you will go nowhere offroad. FT4WD RX center diff is open with locking mech. Means you get poor AWD (but AWD all the same) and 4WD (locked center, no slip) when locked for offroad so you have to lift 2 wheels. If your going for AWD and no D/R then don't bother about lift and offroad tires. Just street it. Unless you want to 'rally' it in which case stick some nice tires on. If your going for FT4WD box then swap out the low range with an EA82 PT low range. And offroad it. BTW, (at least for the early models) the EJ gearboxes use the same size clutch as the EA82 (PT and FT) boxes. Just different flywheels that fit different pressure plates which may have a harder squeeze.

Wheels make any car look good... noice wheels BTW. Lookin good

This is going to be one of those really annoying on topic but not what you want to hear replies. So I apologize in advance. But I still have to say it so live with it. Do you plan to offroad with this setup? Cos even running 27" tires on my Brat with an EJ22 was a PITA offroad. Never had low enough gearing. Having 30" tires would be a nightmare and pretty much useless in my mind I reckon. Useless as in will not gain offroad ability only looks.

Its a body lift. If done properly it should change geometry. Are you going to do anything about the anti sway bar(s)?

Whats the ramp over clearence measure? Looks good, just need some MT's now

Only so far standard will get you. Pitty with roos is it seems modded doesn't get you a whole lot further.

Guys email is listed on this page http://americanwheeler.com/RacersRigsStock.aspx He'll probably be happy to send you some pics.

Shiny

Yummy

How about this. Front shafts have the stub attached to the shaft that goes through the bearing to hold it all together. Rear shafts slide onto a stub with a spline just like on the inner side that is always held in the bearing. Some EA82's had two DOJ on the rear shafts and some had DOJ inner CV outer. All EA81's had DOJ inner and outer on the rear. DOJ allows in and out movement plus rotational movement. CV only allow rotational movement. I know, answering an already answered question. But it's fun. :-p

So the 4.11 is a trouble as well? I thought it was only the 4.44s that didn't go with the 1.59 to 1's.. BTW, the Forester D/R gearbox has a 1.44 to 1 low range. And I'm pretty sure it is a 4.11 diff.

Well if you don't want AWD, then i guess its easy. But if you use an EA82 clutch you could build a box with EJ AWD EA82 D/R that will bolt into your EJ car with what ever EJ diff ratio and front splines you want.

Rear axles are very different to front in all Subaru's

There are after market low range which just bolt in for $1500 or there abouts. Or with a tiny bit of modding you can put the EA82 1.59 to 1 low gears in. How much are you willing to pay? That way if I find one I'll get it and strip it down to what you need for cheaper freight. I'd say you'd be looking at AROUND $200 freight and $200 - $400 for the box. I need to go the the wreckers soon so I'll have a look if there are any there (can pick them up cheap at the right place). What you would need is a pinionshaft, front diff with crown wheel to match pinion, center diff and rear casing and custom lever to enable low range. You owuld also need to get someone, or do it yourself, to fit the pinion shaft and shims for the diff. If you want the whole gearbox from a Forester (the one with the 4.11 ratio) and standard dual range that would cost probably $300 shipping and $600 - $800 for the box. But if your going to the effort of putting a EA82 low range you may as well just build the gearbox with the minimum you need from the EJ D/R.

Ok.. Well I'd be looking at 26" Wrangler TG's (ATxMT tread) or smaller, but I don't think I'll find a tyre for 14" rim smaller then 26". Thinking about this for a cheap s***box EA81 Coupe with a 5sp and my EA81dc I just don't want to have to put the axle in. As I want to be able to rock up somewhere and offroad, hoping to surpise people.

Just wanted to bring up this subject along for your opinions. Wanting to know what you think about driving a Subaru in FWD with the rear diff welded and all driveshafts in place. Things like tyre wear, breaking driveline stuff and handling concern me. Tell me your thoughts. Thanks

I've seen pictures of 4 and heard of about 6 in Australia... And thats only the online world, there are so many people out there doing this stuff who don't use the internet.

If I had one thats what I'd be doing too.. But I don't

Good to see a post from you soobmater. Haven't see you here in a while. But I haven't been here much so that might explain it. I need another Subaru.. Well.... want another subaru.

I thought it was a great way to go out... Its not like its a huge loss or anything. The car was defected and couldn't be driven on the road again. And theres heaps of those old EA81 wagons driving around this part of the world.