Phizinza

With a lift the 5sp is easy. Without lift I believe you need a hammer and then its easy. Even the auto adjuster rear EA82 drum brakes are a good swap, stop the initial loose pedal problem. Engine would fit with minimal work if its a carby. But puttin an EA82 in an EA81 body is silly. If anything the EA82 should come out and be replaced with better, like an EA81 :-p Or you can put the EA82 manifold and carby on the EA81 and possibly get a little more power (seen it done and it worked). If its a carby model small things will swap over with minimal work like fuel pump etc. Wheels should swap over. Front brakes won't. Rear diff will if its the same ratio and if its a 4WD. Probably more stuff

Haha.. didn't even see the date. I'm lazy.

This is my old setup (still have that engine.) Its the dual carb engine as well, so its got the different valve setup.. I'm hopefully getting around to building my own dual weber setup. Sit the webers on each head kinda way. But I'm not sure if I'll do that or just put it on LPG and boost it to hell. Engines suppose to get 101hp new. And its not in the carbs, all the yreally seem to do is let her rev out to over 8K.

For you US people I guess... Things are different here in AUs.

My opinion is webshots sucks

No, all FT4WD only ever had open centre diffs. Why do you 'need' the 3.7 EJ gearbox? Why not run the 3.9 ratio gears? You could too for only about $800

Yes, the 510 (or known as 1600 here in Australia) uses R160's. The 240z I believe does too (no, sorry it does, it has an R180), although most people convert the later model R180 or R200. This obviously is making you think, well if they use R160's and convert to R200 then can't we and use the R200 ARB locker? Well the problem is half axles. The Nissan/Datsun use bolt on DOJ's, not splined. But if you have the time and money to look into the 280z, 300zx diffs and shafts maybe it would be possible. But that is a heavy diff to spin and lug around in the back of a Subaru. This is some info I collected back in the day ARB was making R180 lockers. R180 Casing 240Z 70-73 MT (3.364) (R180) 70-73 AT (3.545) (R180) 260Z 74 MT (3.364) (R180) 74 AT (3.545) (R180) 77-78 AT (3.545) (R180) 280ZX 79 MT 4 Spd, (3.364) (R180) 79 MT 5 Spd, (3.364) (R180) 79 AT (3.545) (R180) 80 MT (3.545) (R180) 80 AT (3.545) (R180) 81-83 w/o Turbo,AT (3.545) (R180) 6/83 to 12/85 720 Navara 4.11 diff center, possibly pinion gear Shortnose 80's 180/200SX N/A R180, what ratios ??? NIssan maxima 3.7 R180? 80's? I think they were all the longnose too. As appose to the shortnose R series diffs. FYI the longnose R series are all the same length, and use the same bolt pattern on the propshaft. So no need for a modified propshaft. I think the rear mount is different spacing though.

Yes, I used the EA82 rear springs up front, it sat a little higher and a little stiffer then standard. I just drilled out the top hats to fit the front shockers shaft. Plan was to get more room so I could move the strut inwards for camber adjustent. But the swivel at the top was still the standard one and wouldn't move more then about 3mm with the 2" lift I had.

I talked to a local auto locker company and they said if there was enough interest they would make them.. I finally got it out of them that enough was around 500 people. I'm sure you could find 500 people who would say "I'll take one". But when it comes down to getting people to pre pay you'll probably only get 50 or so, and then they won't get made and then its a money game sorting out where it all goes back to... I went to a tranmission specialist I was recommended to and he said he could do it. But he screwed me round by telling me it was done and then when I went to pick it up it wasn't (and its over an hours drive there). ARB wouldn't even talk to me, not interested. This is all for the rear. Which is a R160, very common diff in old small RWD jap cars. For the front (special Subaru only diff) I doubt you'd get enough interest in it as pulling down a gearbox isn't for very many people, and it would be an auto locker which is not much fun in the front on road. Getting an air locker made really is just out of the question for the front diff. Sad, but true.

I'm pretty sure the 4.44 crown wheel doesn't fit with the EA82's 1.59 to 1 low range either.. I've heard 4.11 with will fit, or maybe that was with a little ground off the crown wheel. Because of the FWD/4WD the pinion (shaft, because all front pinions on subarus are part of the shaft) on the EA82 D/R box is very different to the AWD EJ boxes. So if you want a EJ ratio you need the EJ gears and center diff including the rear casing. Lockers? No, don't exist for front or rear. Sorry.

I used a standard good condition EA81 radiator with mine. Only time it went over the line on the thermometer was on a 39degree © day in the sun driving north in South Australia. It got about two thrids up the gauge and as my mates car was heating up too we decided to cruise at 90kph instead of 100kph. This got the temps back down and happy. I used two 11" aircon fans from a Mazda with this setup. Was an EJ22 btw.

In Aus they came on all 87 and after EA82's... 85 to 86 were all orange on the ends

See this is where I would of just got a ratchet on the crank pulley and turned the engine over by hand.

Difference between AWD and FT4WD (to my understanding and everything I've ever seen on the matter) is: FT4WD has a lockable center diff. AWD does not. AWD and FT4WD can have open or LSD centre diffs. RX center diffs are open and pretty much useless on dirt roads, in my experience. RX FT4WD have a 1.19 to 1 low range, compared to the PT4WD, standard, which have 1.59 to 1 gearing.

My brat ran rear EA82 springs up front and would bottom and top out the shockers. Only got 4 inches of travel and my shocks were Monroe aftermarket with a little more travel then my brothers standard struts.

May I suggest you cut the flair ends on an angle, like round them off, or even something like a straight 60degree angle? Looks huge

Good photos, yes I have seen all of them before but not everyone has been a member for over 3 years so there are some newbies we can cater for. Have you ever heard of just picking a couple :-p

Ahh... Who cares whos seen what when where... Just post them up anyhow. Its fun to see pictures of other rigs doing the stuff and its good to have posts like this with lots of pictures for those people browsing around. I mean if a picture from this post shows up on Google images it will lead people to this post to see all... Ah, just an idea.

When they slip/break

BRAT/Brumby - 1" more lift then standard on the front axles, 27" kumho's, EJ22 (130hp vs 80hp), custom front A arms and radius rods gave a 1.5" angle forwards also on the CV's. Drived it pretty hard on dirt and offroad. A S/H axle from the wreckers with minimal miles would last maybe 6 months.... Rears only hada problem when I had the welded diff and EA81

do you mean on the base? On my dad's 85 wagon it has a little strap in the middle you pull on and it releases the latch

No need to compete. Just show us what you've got! This is all just some fun anyhow. I know how much we all love looking at pictures.

Heres some pics of my old brumby. First up is the Flinders Ranges 6months after I bought it and right after I put the MTs on. I got stuck here because I was a retard. Next up about a couple of months before I sold it. Didn't get stuck this time.

To continue on from my Mudding! thread. Post up some pictures/video of your Subie hitting up those rocks.

Even if it was an open diff it would still be taking a hell of a beating. Although diffs are made to differentiate they aren't ment to do it all the time. Spider gears will wear then break teeth off. If it is like every other EJ AWD trans I know of then it will have the VLSD and by now its probably cooked and not doing VLSD action anymore. OBS = Outback Sports I believe