Phizinza

Too hard to pick a single favorite. But this sure does get near the top of my personally collection

They got it floating pretty high.. I guess with no engine it isn't that hard. I've wanted to make a Subaru stay afloat, but with an engine and make the rear end output a prop.

I just can't see the benifit if you still havelow clearence in the front where its worst anyhow. Maybe one or two inchs extra in the front and then use the ability the rear DOJ's and no steering get you to crank those shafts.. but I'd just run larger tyres on the rear as well.

The problem I came across with the VW portal hubs was they flip direction due to only two gears. And I just coldn't see how I could flip direction of drive in the gearbox or engine.Although potal hubs would be almost the best option they still have a disadvantage of always being geared. So you either top out the speed at 80kph or run huge tyres which then loose all your gearing. I'll have to look into that idea of moving then engine higher up then standard position and also think about using a different gearbox (maybe something from a nissan. Shorter the better I guess. I would have no problem with cutting out some of the trans tunnel.

Just theroy right now, but I was wondering if any of you have had ideas on how to fit an extra t-case in a EA81 without 8" plus of lift. I've thought about the possibility of removing the front diff, cutting the casing out and welding in some blank off plates into the gearbox then sitting a diff up in that hole. The reason I want this is so I can have RWD, good low range, and legal looking Subaru (any more then 2" lift is illegal and I'm sure if I ran 8" with 29" tires it would be defected instantaneously. So, any ideas on how to get a t-case with no more then 4" lift? I reckon I could make a 4" look legal.

So much text... RE: EJ22 most reliable. When I had my EA81 (I believe one of the best motors Subaru ever made) I never got stuck on the side of the road. No matter what went wrong with it, I could always drive it home. EJ22'ed it and I had to leave the car twice. Once was because of that damned stupid timing belt. It didn't break but the mud got in and made it slip screwing up the timing. I couldn't figure out why it was only running on 2 so I had to leave the car 300km away from home. Ok, they may be more reliable then the 25 or the 82, but 81 FTW! We even stuck an ea81 in a mates 88wagon!

Welding the casing of gas filled struts isn't fun

If you want to keep and play with an EA82 fine. But if people come asking how can I increase HP in my EA82t people have to reply with that its a bad idea if you just want to go fast. Because it is. EA82's aren't a performance engine. EJ's get way more power reliably and to most thats what the want. To some, yes, they want to have fun only. But for those they can make that clear. Once you say I don't want to do an engine conversion most people will shut up and those who don't should just be ignored. I have an original EA81 dual carb motor with the larger exhaust ports and flipped valves. I know it won't get as much as a standard EJ22 EVER but that isn't going to stop me trying to squeeze the most out of it for fun. I don't even have anything to put it in, thats how much I want to do it just for fun. I know you'll get some die hard EA82t fans saying that there is nothing wrong with the timing belts, crappy designed heads that blow head gaskets easy and believe they are th best engine ever. But in my mind the EJ is a far supiroir engine and if you want power, it is the choice. My conversion took a lot of time but only cost and twice as much as just replacing my old EA81. Of cause conversions aren't for everyone. I had many, many problems after getting mine on the road. But my dad is one of those fix it on the side of the road guys and so I am of cause.

Can't forget about the tie rod ends too. Check those if problems still exist.

Non power steering rack, remove pump. Done, and no more crappy leaking powersteering.

EA82 refers to cars with the EA82 engine. People don't refer to Legacy's as EJ22's though, its just a Legacy. Just give the MY and model (wagon, sedan) and most people know what your on about. Maybe even give the engine name (EJ18, EJ20t, EJ22). To do a manual conversion I think you need the tailshaft, pedal box, shifter plate and linkages, full gearbox crossmember, flywheel and clutch. The ECU might not like having the auto TCU unplugged too, not sure. The Loyal/EA82 gearboxes mostly aren't AWD and have a different bellhousing. It is possible to adapt an EJ engine to EA gearbox but it is a lot more fabricating to fit one in a EJ car. Remember, most EJ cars are the same underneath. As in you can use any 5sp manual from any EJ car in your Legacy.

+1 for the ball joints. Sometimes CV's can trick people into thinking they have suspension issues too, but just work on one thing at a time to save money I reckon.

Mmm. That would be fun cleaning out all around the intercooler on a turbo car... Actually we had a similar one with my brothers FWD turbo Telstar (Mazda 626). Drove up to the Flinders Rangers (place in South Australia) and the roads were 4WD only. We didn't want to stop and all jump in the Subaru then so we continued up the road. It was very slippery and even I in the M/T equipt 4WD Subaru almost slid of the road. It was quite sometihng to watch this over powered FWD car towing a trailer on these roads. One point he almost jack knifed it at 30kph fowards.

My write up when I cut my old fenders to fit the 27" M/T's with 2" lift. It was neat and easy, thats why I done it like this http://offroadingsubarus.com/fenders.html

Because the Foresters use the top and bottom bolt design which has a bracket rapping around the knuckle I'd say you could weld a some steel bar to those brackets to drop the knuckle away from the strut. I'd want to get some sort of camber adjuster at the same time as this would easily screw up camber if drilled slightly wrong. Just food for thought. I'm a grind/weld happy lunatic.

I would totaly put those on a pink Suzuki!

You know, after saying that I have only seen a couple of Subies in Aus with alloy pug rims I saw a 505 today with some 14" rims.. They looked alright, but nothing like the ones I've seen on here...

Your going to need to upload those files onto the net at like photobucket or something. Can't insert an image thats on your hard drive.

Good finish resualt. I'm 6ft and never had a problem in my Brat, but much taller and I can see it would be a problem.

Couple more of my old Brumby. I don't so much miss the old girl, but I miss those old days when it was amazing finding out what she'd do. I don't think I'll ever get the same feeling again. Because, then, I really had no clue about offroading. Now I've driven a locked up solid axle toyota, a Nissan Patrol SWB (which is very very very capable as stock), welded diff subie, etc. I've also watched so many offroad videos I just get a general idea of what can do what. Ok sorry for that paragraph, now to the pictures.

I think this is the difference from Hitachi and Nippon Denso Disty's?

I've seen one car on the net (make that two now including yours) with the pug alloys in Australia.. Thats rare enough in my mind to classify them as un get able. But ok, yes, you can get them here if you try hard enough. But Speedy's are only $80 ea for a 14x6 rim so here in Aus its not too much of a problem getting wheels. $180 ea for the 15" Superlites. Although I picked up a set of 6 lug ones for $170 second hand

Personally if I had another old gen Subie I would get different brakes for it. Then I'd have a different stud pattern. But I know a lot of people out there just want some alloy wheels to spice the look up a bit.

Haha... that looks like fun.