Phizinza

Thanks for that info Kaz. I'll try and remember that for future reference.

Going more offtopic here, but. You'll need a D/R EJ case, can get those in Australia or New Zealand. I'm not sure if the complete gearset from the RX will work with the front pinion shaft from an EJ (which you need if you want to run a EJ center diff). You see the front pinion shaft goes through the output gearset. If the RX uses different diameter to the EJ in this part it won't just interchange. You'll need the output gearset from the trans your using the center diff out of. If the 1st to 4th plus reverse ratios line up with an EA82 PT box, then you can just stick the EJ stuff in the EA82 D/R casing or RX D/R casing. If the ratios don't, then you'll need the input gearset shaft from an EJ D/R. I used RX gearset with RX diff and EA82 low range in a EJ D/R casing. It is quite simple, yet hard to explain in text or to someone who doesn't quite know what everything all does in the box.

Recently I've been on another forum a lot more (due to it being my own and me being the only moderator.) I still like this place. Lots of great info in store here. Plenty of crazy ideas that go beyond logical thought, plus many that are quite possible. Other Subaru forums I've been too are all too "You can do anything with money" Or "Nope, can't be done". I like USMB members for their free mindedness and willingness to do different things. I like to step out side the box.

Sounds like me.....

You don't need an RX trans. Just get a PT4WD 5sp. Then get a pre 94 EJ box. Take out the lower gearset from the PT and take out the diff. This is after you've removed the rear casing and 4wd gear. Then put the lower gear set, pinion, diff and rear casing plus center diff in the casing of the PT box. Use the EJ 5th gear and all the other gears 'should' line up right. (I D/R EJ box used the same gear ratios as the FT4WD I had.) You now have 1.59 to 1 low with center VLSD in a 5sp with the ability to put a WRX front LSD and harder pack center VLSD in. And it will bolt to a EA engine. My gearbox is a EJ D/R front casing with EA82 low range and RX center diff with lock. But its all pretty much just lego. Some parts just don't fit "in" others. So thats why you need the casing and lower gearset.

I would read the above post, but its too long and I can answer with a simple no to the RX EJ interchangeable center diff. They are quite different. You can however put the RX rear gearbox casing with center diff on a EJ gearbox (you also need the pinion shaft and crown wheel) or a EJ center diff with rear casing on a EA82 gearbox (thats right, even the PT boxes). Just screws with your mounts and propshaft length.

Eh.. We've had those (Holden Crewmen) for years.. They weight too much IMO, and look crap. But most Holdens do IMO.

No sorry, I have seen a pic of an 01 WRX box opened up which are pretty much just a S/R box. but I don't know where it was now.Yeah back on topic now I guess, sorry about bring up manual gearboxes when you're talking autos.

To go into more detail: Dual range models have a pass through shaft above the front differential that is geared 1.5:1 or there abouts which decrases the drive ratio thus giving better gearing once engaged. The reason you cannot flip the front diff is because this gear shaft is right in the way. Here are two images that might help you understand what I'm talking about http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ea82gearbox_centerdifflock_casingsplit_leftside.jpg http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ea82gearbox_centerdifflock_casingsplit_rightside.jpg The second image shows the input shaft from the clutch which then goes through the low range gears then to the input side 1st-5th gears including the straight cut reverse gear.. The first image shows the front diff with crown wheel and pinion shaft along with the output side gears. To flip direction of a differetial you need to put the crown wheel on the other side of the pinion, FYI.

EJ gearboxes also can't just use the 2 piece EA82 shaft like the 5sp EA82 gearboxs in EA81 cars. Ej boxes also use different mounting and is a little trickier then the EA82 box in EA81 swap. EJ boxes are far superior onroad though as they have the centre VLSD unlike the PT4WD D/R boxes which are driect coupled front and rear thus making it bad onroad, and poorer handling then AWD offroad. EA82 FT4WD (or AWD if you like) are still not as good as EJ AWD as they only have open centre diff. EA82 5sp is a pretty easy swap in a car like yours. Just need to figure out low range linkage, crossmember mount and the centre bearing mount.

Awesome idea. I'll confirm the D/R manuals cannot have the diff flipped the reverse direction. The S/R maunals might be able to though. I really gotta have a look in one of those 4EAT's some time.

Haha.. Looks a little front heavy though..

"real drifting" ? Is there only "one" way to drift? I think people should consult a dictionary and our previous generations on what "drifting a car" means. To me, that is drifting, and so is that purpose drift racing that they do. Both similar skilled in car control. Both look great. But one is on "real roads" while the other is on a track which would have many dollars spent on keeping it smooth so there are no surprises in store. Where WRC SS's are not often on highly maintained roads. Great video BTW. Rally car drivers are pretty amazing.

Its very similar to the 5 sp in construction. Its just the reverse gear that is weak.

Maybe one of these threads should be stickied?

I've seen quite a few 4x4's around where I live running re-tread M/T's. They use the BridgestoneDesert Dualer or similar so they havea good side wall. My mate also used to run re-treads on his EA82. They were about 185x75r14's. Bassed on a 8 ply Van tire. They were very soft and only lasted him about 12,000km. Figured out the mileage and it was more worth getting the Kumho's like I did then those cheapies. They did go pretty good offroad though. I think the softer tread worked well over rocks.

Interesting... redrilled 5 stud rims. looks like the Land Rover stud pattern. Or maybe the Suzuki 5x139.7mm?

Kumho looks like an ok tread, so does the Dunlop. Not sure how well Dunlops wear, but I've heard good things about the Kumho A/T's. Check their side wall ply rating. Don't get a tyre with a 2 ply side wall, want at least 4 for decent offroading I believe.

6" lift, EJ22, 5sp D/R... She'll be good.. Or just onroad stuff? The EA81 is the same width as the EA71 I believe, so it should fit a SOHC EJ. You'll need to crack out the tape measure.

Ok, sounds like its pretty normal. Its just I'm selling the car and don't want to sell it with a problem like this (in other words, not being able to fill the tank) but if its normal thats fine. I have put the charcoal canister in and directed its bottom vert pipe out the fender so it doesn't leak fuel all through the engine bay. I'm guessing my problem was exaggerated due to parking the car on a slow with the engine lower then the fuel tank. Thanks

So I had this little problem. I filled my Brumby up to full (when the fuel pump went click I put about a liter more in) and then drove a short distance to a mates place. I left the car in the sun for 2 days of 40degree + weather. When I went to start it it wouldn't turn over as the intake manifold, some cylinders were FULL of fuel. So much so that it had gotten high enough in the intake piping to go into the crank case vent. So I have about 5 liters of fuel in the crank case. I put it down to not having a charcoal canister and valve, instead it just vents into the intake manifold. But even with a charcoal canister it still would of filled that up and then gone into the intake. I am totally amazed that a full 50liter tank of gas could expand enough to push 7 to 10 litres out into the engine. I'm going to put the charcoal canister in, but I don't believe this alone with solve this problem. My brother said the cap should vent. And yes, that would be good, but I would still have fuel pooring out cap surely? Or is there enough room ing the filler pipe for expantion if the air in the tank can vent through the canister? I'm having trouble figuring out how to stop fuel pooring out on hot days with a full tank. Any thoughts? Cheers,

They are good in the right places. Mud baths and sand. I've always tried to do the rocks and other rough stuff in mine and always break things and wear it out. Use the Subie for what its good at and you'll enjoy it so much more.

Take it off the road and that front bumper is going to die... Why is the Forester such a 'softroader'. Why can't they make it decent offroad. We don't need anymore 4WD city rigs. Sorry /rant

I didn't think he was going to lengthen the car, just move the rear wall backwards. As for GD's post, didn't he say he was having trouble with his hands hitting his legs? Not his head on the roof. Surely that means the seat needs to go backwards, not down?

Forgot to also add the knuckles have a large rear seal. So your EA81 driveshafts wont seal in EA82 knuckles...