Phizinza

I'm 6ft and just fit nicly in my Brat with the smaller steering wheel. So I can understand your issue. I have never seen anything like this. But it wouldn't be much fabrication. You just need to cut it out and weld it back. It s all pretty much the same shape back there for the 6" or so you want. Interior could be an issue if you want it to look like factory though. But if your putting a cage in, you probably don't want the interior panels? Should be interesting seeing what it looks like once your done.

Was compacting our newly layed gravle on our driveway and the car slipped off the edge. This was in my Brat (Brumby.) I stuck it in 4WD and slid further down onto a tree trying to drive out.. an hour and a half later we got it out with a hand winch and ever since the bottom half of the door has been rippled and dented. Sad, but it just adds to the cars impression.

HA... The spelling argument again. I'm sorry but having a go at a spelling mistake that small in someones post just because they had a go at using acronyms that make no sense is just poor. It is the internet. Not only that, the english language is changing into this. And just because english used to be a certain way when you were taught it doesn't mean its always been that way. It is for ever changing. This is just another change. Yes it is annoying, but if you don't like it go learn norwegian or something. If you don't understand or don't like it, don't read it. Not every piece of crappy off topic chat needs to be read. Hows that for off topic. Wooops.

If your talking about the front brakes it is not a straight swap. The calipers have a different bolt pattern and there for need the knuckles as well. The knuckles havea different offset to create a different roll radius on the lower ball joint so you'll gain a few degrees of positive camber unless you custom your lower control arms. The discs won't fit EA81 calipers right (or at all?) either.

I know what you mean. That's why I built a AWD with low range and a center locking differential for 4WD, for my Brat. But all that work isn't for everyone. If you just want a good stock Subaru that will get you there and back look at the 80-84 GL wagons. The EA81 motor is just like what you had in your hatch most likely, and with no timing belt problems or hydraulic lifters to make noise they are really reliable. Hatchbacks are getting harder to find I believe. I live in Australia and we never got them here but I hear on this forum time and time again that it is hard to get a good old hatch. But the wagons and the Brats are pretty much the same car just a little longer. For more detail on the 2.2, look up EJ22 swap on this forum. It is far from bolt right in. The power is nice, but the EFI is a PITA.

That is really weird that it won't blow through the holes. Must be some serious blockage in there. I'm pretty sure you need to drop the diff, probably only off of the rear diff hanger. I would think the tnk should slide out backwards once thats done.

So you have a blocked up tank... On the front of the tank (right next to the torsion bar) there are two pipes, one is a return 3.2mm big the other is feed 8mm (5/8ths?) There are two vent hoses on the right hand side of the tank up near where the filler feeds in. But it sounds like your just having issues with the bottom of the tank. Maybe drain the tank with the drain plug then hit the feed and return lines with compressed air?

Less rust? That would mean the bolts don't need so much effort and then your hand doesn't go through the radiator every time you need to undo some bolts... If you always put everything back together with anti-seize then when you go to undo the bolts later they are easy and don't hurt so much.

Thats gotta be one of the biggest Subies in Australia. What size are the tyres?

I had this issue. I used a blow torch on the DOJ cup (not the diff stub, as I didn't want to wreck the seals.) Then hit them off and it was easy(ish.) Didn't damage the seals at all either.

All subaru engines that I know of have a wet sump. This means the oil sits in the sump. Dry sumps should only be 1" to 2" deep and have two hoses going to a remote tank with a pump.

My personal preference is to shorten the single piece shaft.

No picture. But I had 500-600kg of gravle in the back on my Brumby/Brat a while back. It didn't like it. the Kumho M/T's rubbed and the suspension was bottomed out. That was with the air shocks pumped right up too.

Not much revs needed to get her slipping. I'd love to have some snow here. It's 38c outside and theres so much smoke from the fires around that you can't see beyond about 4km...

Remote sender + dry sump + bash plate!! Looks like fun.

Just keep the tire profile the same and you'll be alright.

Oh. Pitty they cost so much, and I doubt they are the same design as the dual range casings..

Engine: OBD1 EJ22 Chassis: 1989 Brumby (same as EA81 style Brat) Tranny: Hybred EJ D/R FT4WD box Other: 2" body lift. custom front suspension arms, more Before you ask: Gearbox uses Liberty (Legacy) Dual range casing, with EA82 FT4WD centre lockable diff and EA82 1.59 to 1 low ratio. Oh, I'll also add I'm using standard EA81 dual core radiator with no dramas except when half of it got covered in mud.

Where?? In manual?? Holy cow, when did I miss this?!??!

Alright.. Time for some videos. YOUTUBE!! ehehe

This was a while ago when I first got the Roo and was a little reckless. I know it doesn't compare to other 4WD's in the video, but on that beach I've driven past people stuck in all sorts of 4WD's. Subies are just about made for sand driving.

Good to hear testy. Sorry for going offtopic. But I felt you got the right answers before I first replied. So Knowing you had what you needed to know, I thought I would try and help with the misunderstood reason for a catalytic converter.

Sorry if you feel I was having a go at you. Your posts weren't the ones I was aiming at up until you started getting defensive. I understand that this was a misunderstood moment. Its just those people out there that do what Daeron said above that I think need to understand what they are doing before going ahead.

I reckon it would be too hard to make a standard hub into a 5x100 because the disc has 4x100 bolt pattern and your cutting it really close to miss the holes. 4x100 is ok because its between the disc holes. The thing with the crossbred performance is you get better brakes as well. Some may not care about this, but if your doing your car up for performance, then you'll want better brakes. If you just want some shiny mags, then a re drilled hub or spacers is the way to go. As for those who think spacers/adapters aren't cool, there are toyota guys out there with heavily modified rigs with 1.5" spacers on there wheels that have no problem. And I would think with 39x15.5" tires there would be a lot more stress then a Subaru would get. Yes, there are stories of these type of things failing, and they are real. But just ask yourself, did they mention what the adapter was made of? Alloy's aren't Alloy's.

My next car is going not not have much modified. That is another reason I am looking away from Subaru. See subaru don't make the type of car I want, so I would need to upgrade brakes, and power which make it less reliable. I want a car I can just give a little lift, some bigger tyres, maybe a locker and then tow my offroader to places to play, or do some good holiday outback Aus trips. Toyota, or Land Rover seem like the best option for that type of need. If I find a 3L TD Surf/4Runner with a manual, then I'll get it. But I haven't found one yet. They are all auto's. Land Rover Disco with the 300TDI is popular in manual and almost as good with power. It also has a much better offroad capability. This means when I come up against something hard on a trail I won't have to thrash it to get up. I'll just be able to drive up. Thus putting less strain on all the parts. This means less time in the garage fixing it (which I hate, modding is fun though, its just fixing I hate.) Plus, I'll have enough to worry about fixing on my Buggy. Here the insurance doesn't drop with more cars. And the rego alone costs $280, then it has complusary third party personal which makes it upto $440. Then you really shouldn't go out without third party property (don't want to bump a $220K Merc and write it off without it.) So $640 per car per year. The dollar is pretty much the same between Aus and US these days too.. I'm looking at a job right now where I'll earn around $460 a week. Theres bills and food to come out of that. So if I have to take $25 out just to have two cars and no even drive them, it's going to hurt.