Phizinza

I'm looking at maybe getting a late 90's Imp. What I want out of the car is decent reliablity, performance, no squeaks, no rattles, and no stupid door seals that leak and make air wooshing noises. (lol, that last bit didn't come out right.) So can I expect this from, just say, a 96 to 98 Imp with <140,000mile on the clock? Or am I kidding myself?

I never even think of autos when there are questions about gearboxes on here. It's almost like I have blanked the fact that autos exist out of my mind. :-p

Thanks heaps for your imput. So the EJ18 to 22 is probably an easy swap. Another question, will EJ18/22 intake and or exhaust manifolds bolt to DOHC EJ20/25 heads? I assume not. Oh, and does anyone know how to pick OBDI or II just at looking under the hood/dash of the car? Lol, and another question. Was there such thing as a 8 valve EJ20 SOHC? And how many valves did the EJ18's have? I assume the EJ22's always had 16 valves? EDIT: I think I just found out there was never a 8 valve EJ..

Ok, yes, its another one of these stupid questions where there is probably an answer on this forum or somewhere else I cannot find... Just say there was a 96 EJ18 sedan Imp. What would have to change to put a EJ22/25 (and or SOHC/DOHC?) motor into it? Would it need a rewire? Or just a new computer and new engine? So, is the OBDII wiring in any Imp the same? Or does it change depending on what motor is in the car?

There is a S/R FT4WD EA82 box. But it should have a diff lock lever on the right side about in the middle of rear casing. Or at least a pin sticking out ready to take a lever. In other words. 99.99% sure there was no EA AWD box with no diff lock. ... However, you can make one using internals and rear casing of an EJ trans.

ok.. heres my input. Pick the style you want. They're all Subarus, and they all offroad pretty much the same. If you want a big gap in offroad ability, don't look at Subaru's. I pick EA81, as I think they are HOTT vs EA82 style. BRAT FTW

EA81 Hatch. Light, short, better exit angle, and its an EA81!!!

Lol.. I love the shot with the little subie in between those big trucks..

I say if it doesn't make any unwanted noise while driving, just don't worry. I do doubt that it came from the factory "perfect." Sounds like something pulled it apart and didn't know/care what the shims are.

Ok, I see what your on about. A year ago when I looked into this the part number there used to read RD107 with a little 3. I guess they stopped making them. Next time I'm in an ARB shop I'll ask on availability of the locker for the front of a Navara.

Just to clarify, has to be turbo. Where it says "XT, GL, or Loyale" I think they will only work from these if they are Turbo models. I know it says that, but I just wanted to clarify it.

Ok, maybe the USA ARB doesn't do the R180... but you can't tell me there isn't a listed R180 in this file here http://www.arbusa.com/alac/215109.pdf And I just realized that's even from a US site..

That's a good question... On the limit most of the time! It's only 5000mb/5000mb

Guys, guys... I've even gone and got a price from an ARB shop on a R180 locker (fits the front of a Nissan Navara (720 anyone?) They do make them... REALLY, they DO!... Problem is the Narava uses the short nose R series. You can however get the long nose, but in a 3.7 ratio the long nose R180 only came in SOME 90's Maxima's. Then, hopefully the splines are the same between that diff and the Navara diff. But then you still have to chop or get custom axles to switch over to the Subaru design. Lots of work really. But I've looked into it and it is very possible. Just over my budget ($1200 for an ARB locker, $300 for a Maxima diff, $$$ for custom axles.. In a $5000 car ) Sorry about that first part.. I just can't believe how many times I've been told ARB don't make R180 air lockers...

I'm guessing because the Auto has a completely different inside that the pinionshaft isn't so special because it doesn't have to fit a particular centre diff that all the 3.9 4.11 4.44 ratio pinions bolt into all the weird gearboxes.. But really.... I have no idea cos I still don't pay attention to autos.

I have time to kill, but don't want to go over my download limit and have 64k for a week. But by the looks of the pictures it looks fun.

Easily fixed...

How about pulling the engine and trans, then theres enoug hroom to pull the axle out. Of cause you still have the problem of the wheel only being held on by your brake disc..... Jack it up mate and put some wood blcoks under to support it while your working on her.

My brother had 215/60R13's running on 5.5" wide fiat rims. How wide are the stock Subie rims again? 205/60R13's on 5" rims might be alright. But expect a little uneven tire wear anyhow. Well, thats over what the Subie will do to wear itself.

A mate of my brothers had this mag so I took some photos of the article.. Hope you enjoy. I have another article also here on the Australian built Scorpion Lift kits from back then too. I have these in much bigger res too.. If you want them I can email them to you or something.. Sorry, but they are just photos not scans, so they are a big fish eyed.

That's pretty good. I would bet you'd want bigger CV's and longer shafts for more front end travel. The steering lock on Subies is just so much the CV's can't take the extra travel in my mind. Still.. It's all very possible. I'm building a buggy, but it's all solid axles and rover v8.

Name change to Rocky88 in order? I can't eve imagine letting my Brumby go.. I guess it has to happen sometime.

omg... That was a lot of words mate.. You love your essays eh? taillights should be 10watts each, 20 divided by 12volts = 1.6amps plus or minus .4 I reckon from loss in wires and differene in volts.

Kinda totally sums it up for me. I've just got FT4WD with centre diff lock, 1.59:1 low, 3.7 diffs, in a EJ D/R case so it bolts right upto the EJ22 engine. I'm happy with it, could do with some lower gears, but the rear locker should make it so I don't have any trouble with the terrain I want to drive over.

the_postie I believe.