Phizinza

There is a guy in Australia currently trying to get that done.. don't know if it will work or not. You need VERY HIGH precision when doing something like that. And it will need heat treatment afterwards of cause. I really doubt the pin method it looks like you have drawn would be anywhere near strong enough.

Justy's are barely subarus. Nothing much interchanges with the boxers from them.

They are double wish bone? I can't see how you could fit double wish bone to a subie unless you have 8" lift. Or are you that guy with the cool buggy? Then that would probably work. Although I would just cut the shafts and weld the outer CV shaft from the nissan to the inner CV shaft from the Subaru and stuff getting anything resplined. I am actually planning on putting 6stub truck hubs and brakes on my Brat, just have to convert them to McPherson strut design and weld some drive shafts.

Sorry, no time to read anything but the first post. So heres my input on the first post. The only way to get a semi bolt together D/R with 1.59 to 1 low range with a 4.11 is to use a EJ D/R box which you need to source from Australia, install the EA82 low range (pretty easy.) But because of the pinion shaft design on the different gearboxes you WILL have to use a VLSD center differential. You cannot use a FT4WD diff lock box with a EJ pinion (it will not work.) AlsoI believe the teeth on the 4.11 crown wheel need grinding to fit in with the 1.59 to 1 low. The 4.44 would be much worse I believe. So, a few facts FT4WD boxes came in 3.7 ratio, and the XT's had 3.9, only they are S/R so you would need some shaft swapping. FT4WD boxes have a pinion shaft going through the output gearset like the EJ's do, only they are not interchangable with the EJ version as the center diff is 100% different design. PT4WD boxes don't have a seperate pinion shaft, its part of the gear shaft and that is why you can't use PT ratios on FT or AWD boxes. 1.59 to 1 low gears will not fit right into the boxes that came with 1.19 ratio, you need to swap the shift fork and that requires some drilling and maybe welding depending on if you use the detent or not. EJ rear casing (diff center casing) is about 40mm longer so your propshaft needs to be shortened. EJ rear casing cannot hold FT4WD center diff. Ok, well theres a bunch of random usefullish info.. Hope it helped.

hahahaha.. hmm.. lol I thought the wiring on those 3.0 H6's was almost impossible to cut down due to all the inbuilt anti theft crap into the ECU and looms, blah blah... I sound like I have no idea, thats cos I don't.. Would be a sweet ride though.

I thought XT6's had the S/R 3.9 FT4wD and the turbo RX/GL10s had the D/R 3.7 FT4WD boxes. I'd say like mikeshoup said, PT4WD from a turbo car is the easiest. Wheres the your box leaking from? Might not be too hard to fix you know?

Double offset joint.. They are the CV like joints only that can move in and out. Turbo trans used 25spline on their gearbox and non-turbo plus all EA81's used 23splines. But the joint in the DOJ itself is the same and can be interchanged. ontopic. Sounds like the "donor car" is a EA81 like Daeron said. And a 86 wagon should be EA82. So its not a straight fit. The EA81 4sp is longer and you'd need the propshaft as well because of that. The shifter linkage is completely different. And the low/high range lever is different too. I wouldn't bother putting a 4sp into an EA82, its just too much work in my mind.

As you can see, it does looks slightly straighter then the others... Btw, for those not in the know, the 1st gear on that shaft is the little one next to the straight cut reverse gear..

Yes, I have to agree. If it ain't D/R or you don't want D/R then the EJ box is the way to go. There is a guy here in Aus who spoke to me over email or PM or something that is getting a 4.11 or 4.44 (forgot which one) pinion gear put on a FT4WD 3.7 ratio pinion shaft... Should be interesting if it works out.

Everyones going to go "boo who, rahh rahh, blahdy blah" but that won't stop me saying this. I drove my Brat many a time in 4WD on dry black top. I probably clocked up 1000km like that. And I'm not light footed. The good old 4sp still felt the same after it, sounded the same, and went on living in my brothers wagon for a few months. Its still a good box, its just the wagon lost its engine and lift kit so no the box isn't used. No weird noises, no clunks. Not saying its a good thing to do, just letting you know that these gearboxes can take it (in most cases.) Only problem it caused was the opening up of my rear DOJ cups. Which wasn't bad until I welded the rear diff.. And that probably would of been alrightish except I then drove it down the road a couple of times in 4WD with the axle in the rear.. But the gearbox and diff and propshaft all survived.. Just the axles that didn't.. Ok, ok... Doing this is a bad idea and no one should follow in my foot steps.. Happy now? But it was fun having "AWD" in a stockish Brat... Now I have real AWD and its just as good only doesn't bend and stretch things.

Manual is it? FT4WD? You'll find the FT4WD boxs only came in 3.7 and 3.9. And because of the design of the centre diff and pinion shaft you can only use those ratios unless you cut, weld, temper a different pinion gear on.

Looks like it turned out real nice. Should go very well with the black indeed.

2WD Nissan 6" wide rims fit perfectly with offset.. Keeps the tires just in the guards. Not sure about the others. But on a 6" wide rim you want about 23mm positive offset

Looks like some fun.. I do like the idea of those exhaust switches. Good for legal when you need it and power when you want it. Have fun

Oh please stop. This is just too much. His gone to other places. If you wish to go with him then please do. This topic should either go to offtopic or be deleted in my mind. No one who doesn't know about him needs to know about him and all the others that do know of and laugh at him need something better to do. I just can't believe this post, and the others before it, have gone this far.

Very nice... I love those wheels.. Never seen a set here in Aus though..

There are many other cars/4WDs that use eye to eye shockers that will fit the back or an EA81. My brother got some big shockers that had 4" more travle and were 5" longer then the originals (he used them with a 2" lift kit.) But they were thicker and I assume took the bumps up better.. for the front, your stuffed. Just get what ever you can.

Very nice scenery indeed. I would do a lot to have a place to wheel like that near me, hell even within 2 hours drive... Nice little zuk too. Although I prefer their two wheeled models.

I think the EA82 clutch should bolt to the EA81 flywheel fine. The engine will bolt to the trans fine too. Not sure if the ECU in the GL10 will like not having an engine to run either. And you'll need to replace the fuel pump with a carb model. Maybe some new wires to the fuel pump too. And you'll need a whole set of new wires running to and around the engine. I'd say its a fair bit of work. But if thats all you have, then it is possible.

Just remember, offset plays a huge part in fitting wheels. The stud pattern is only the start of it.

Keep axles in a good position so they don't eat them selves on the road. Don't touch suspension, so you keep stock travel. Weld rear diff and all is solved.. Really, thats pretty much all you can do that isnt way out there crazy style for a little old subie.

Sorry, only read first post. You have to do both at the same time. I use aluminium foil torn up into little strips then rapped around the gasket all the way round. This has been amazing in stopping exhaust leaks. Only trouble I had was when I went over a big bump and the exhaust went thud onto the ground, then one side leaked. Replaced both and it was good up until I swapped the engine. Done the same with the EJ22 ones and they are holding up great.

Yeah, I don't think the old pumps in the 82t's are up to turbo'ed EJ's.. All the people I've talked to that have done the EJ swap seem to use those bosch or the walbro 255.

At a guess without a lift kit you'd need to cut the rear of the front fender back 1.5 - 2 inches and smash the wheel well in just behind the fender an inch or two. This may screw up your pedals too so be careful. With a 4" body lift you may get away with only bit of hammering and maybe no cutting depending on what offset wheels you get. The 2WD trucks like the (pretty sure toyota 2WD trucks don't have 6 stud) have a much better offset for a 6x139.7 stud pattern to fit the subies.

Gearing is your number 1 enemy.. Is it manual or auto?