Phizinza

Fully SIC negative camber you have m8!!!1!oneone Say that with a voice of a Ricer.

I added http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/subarubrumby_pushbuttonstart.jpg Just a push contact switch, so once the engine is running you let go and it stops the starter.. Only works with the key in on one ignition. My key was being intermittent. So this was a quick fix and everyone who sits in my car comments on it now.

I got my sump gaurd to fit with just a little hammering so it can't be that much bigger surely?

http://www.nolathane.com.au/ Not sure if its all the same or what ever... But that's what you can buy here in Australia for all the older and newer Subarus. As for on the move adjustible camber.. I think just getting the camber and caster set close to right is a huge improvement to these old subies. Your gonna have to get pretty serious with your driving if you need to be able to set your camber different weather it be on the move or on a wheel alignment machine.

I've been told this too. But it doesn't help when the mud is deeper then your clearence. I personally like wider as it works in sand, and gives more grip going up things. But if you want heaps of control I guess skinny would be the go. The farms I've been on always use huge tires on their tractors, but I guess its a whole weight thing as well.

I think I wired my temp wire into the cluster as well... Haven't noticed an issue. Although my temp gauge has been adjusted so many times by accident while removing the cluster and opening it up to stop a squeak in the odometer. I run stock EA82 rad with modded inlet and outlets. Its a dual core and I use two aircon fans from a mazda on the front of it running off the original thermo switch in the rad. It only turns on when I stop and idle for a couple of mins in traffic. But it hasn't been tested in hot weather yet, only 28 - 30 degrees C. Wonder how it will go in the 40C+ weather.. Time will tell I guess. The problem with the stutters isn't bothering me anymore so all is ok. And now I've fixed the backlash in my rear driveshafts (welded diff took its toll on the DOJ's back there) the car feels sweet.

Cheers, very nice.. I like your choice in wheels too.

So the rear brakes are XT6, or....?

Using Windows? Try http://www.microsoft.com/windowsxp/downloads/powertoys/xppowertoys.mspx Its a tool that makes it easy to resize an image. Just have to right click on the image in the file browse after installing the program and there will be a "resize image" option.

A/C, or converted to air compressor?

Oh crap... I think I just wet myself.. Only thing I'd put on that Brat would be some hot chick Lovin those brake..

Haha.. Wasn't meaning anything by saying that mate, no need to explain. I'm on the net a lot too, I've just been toning down my post activity as it was a bit much at like 4 - 5 a day. (although on my forum I post quite a bit, so maybe thats where I've turned to and theres no such thing as toning down for real?) Anyway, next stop to the wreckers and I'll be investigating some different brake setups closer. I've been told by a couple of people I should just drop a live axle in the back... Sounds like fun, but I so like IRS on road. I think it handles better personally.

Man, do you ever leave this site? I was thinking outside the square again.. Looking at other vehicles brakes.. Might fit some small jap truck brakes, biggest I can do with 14" wheels, and then I can have more fun with my shocker options. The rear will be the harder ones to change.

Its been a while. I found a problem. Because I couldn't get the CV joint off my EA81 shaft I just used a complete EA82 shaft. The EA82 knuckle uses a bigger seal then the EA81 version, and the EA82 shaft there for won't fit into the EA81 knuckle without destroying the seal. I've found this out the hard way as I didn't look at that when I put it together. Bratman also told me the brake caliper mounts on the EA82 knuckle are different to the EA81 version so it looks like I would need new calipers and knuckles to use the EA82 shaft. For now I just put it back together and am waiting for the bearing to die.. Need money for new parts, so she'll have to get along with two busted seals for now. I have already been on two 400km trips to an offroad park where I've been through deep mud and water. And I've been offroading locally twice where I've done several water crossings. The grease was a bit dirty looking but only a tiny bit of noise with it so far. Otherwise, the rest of it all is holding up really well. No sign of stress or anything. I still haven't finished the write up on it all, I'll have to get around to that.

This is in offroad... That means your gonna get that thing dirty?!?! hahahaha

Now that's SHINY !! I like the blue. Better then what everyone else does (red.) What is that going in?

Yes, I have seen many cars with the same looking device and I'm pretty sure they'd work just as good as a Subaru one. Hell, even the solenoid on the S/R PT4WD boxes looks the same, and I think it has the same plugs too.New ones seem way other priced to me. Sorry, the 60ohm thing is for the EJ22, not the older motors. I forgot they were different. Good to see the right info there for you anyway.

Its a solenoid that opens a pipe from your charcol canister to your intake manifold. In my mind it is useless. But to keep the ECU happy you either need a 60 odd ohms resistor in it's place or a good working one.

Only read the first post, so I'll jsut add. Narva 50+'s are really sweet. Gives me almost the same light as those newer cars have. They are only a tiny bit more white then standard bulbs. Can't say if they'll last, only had them in for a couple of months now. And I don't drive the car much.

Thats a very cool Brat. I think I need a couple more inches in mine.

GD was talking about the EA82t mate, just read his second paragraph.. He is just adding that its MUCH better to put an EJ under there and then boost that if you want. Ok, I added that last bit not GD, but whatever.

Going to 185 or even 205 wide makes all the difference. Try looking for snow/winter tread tyres. You might be able to get some in 185/80R13's.. Otherwise convert it to 6 stud and run some 14" wheels with the kumho M/T's or something. Will need to cut a lot with that, but they will fit non lifted.

I also have no neutral switch wired in.. Fixing the VSS problem helped a few other things which were much mroe important. Like random idle (at least it didn't stall like when I was having the 24 IAC error.) Also was juttering the driveline a lot when taking off which it doesn't do now. I don't really mind, because, as you said you won't get any more power.. I just was wondering if I still have a problem or if thats just how the stupid ECU works. I have noticed with the VSS wired in when I put my foot on the clutch it idles at 1400 until I stop, then drops to 750. But if I decelerate its happy to drop below 1400 while in gear decelerating... Just weird I guess.

Thats the plug you can plug into a "shops" computer and they tell you all the data thats on the ECU, like past errors, and what not. I had already cut 4 wires that go to the plug before I noticed what it was also.. I just cut it out completely. The CEL is good enough for me. If you want moreI say get an MS or different aftermarket ECU.

I'm not quite following you on the "aluminum wheel cylinders" part. Can you describe to me what these are? The brake piston? The hub?