Phizinza

Not sure on this case as I don't know your grandson, but. In my experience some people just need to "grow up" before they drive and that sort of thing...

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/turbo.htm http://auto.howstuffworks.com/turbo1.htm http://auto.howstuffworks.com/turbo2.htm Howstuffworks isn't always correct, but that should help you.

Also using a punch to make a dent in the bolt (or whatever your drilling) for the drill bit to follow. Works 9 times out of 10 for me..

Yeah.. My brother said that he reckons without that regulator nothing else but the tappets would get oil... But his only guessing.

Finding alloy Pug wheels in Australia is like findingh hens teeth...... If you want 15" alloys you'll need to get a set of Performance Superlites, you can buy 15x6 or 15x7 with 4x140 PCD for about $180 a piece.. Or you can convert to 6 stud, and buy some second hand 2WD jap ute mags. Or you can look at the group buys on AuSubaru, I believe there were some 15" 4x140PCD wheels on there...

It was very obvious ( the symptoms that is) with the VSS error.. It was very annoying the drive. Couldn't floor it, wouldn't idle, etc... Very strange indeed. Of cause always remember this is AUDM vs USDM.. :-/

My brother says yes. It's a oil pressure regulator for the tappets (lifters.)

I just also want to add, the first ECU I was using never gave the code 33 and I wasn't getting all the symptoms that I was getting with the code on the new ECU. So I think the old ECU either had a busted bit inside the speed sensing receiver or it was weirdly programmed not to take notice of it.. The original ECU came from a 89 model and the replacement came from a 91 model. So I'm guessing although Numbchux gets the code and doesn't get any symptoms it's probably because his ECU is programmed or even built differently to mine and those other people who have told me it won't work without the speed signal. Weird bloody cars..

Sorry to bring this up to the top but I just wanted to add the final solution to the problem, read the posts in this link: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=71100&page=17

Sorry to bring this up to the top but I just wanted to add the final solution to the problem, read the posts in this link: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=71100&page=17 The IAC code 24 just stopped happening one day. But the idle was still screwy.. But after I fixed the VSS code 33 the idle is now good as well as everything else.

Sorry to bring this up to the top but I just wanted to add the final solution to the problem, read the posts in this link: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=71100&page=17

Also I should make the point that standard 13" rims on the Subaru's are 5.5" wide.

On a decent OD sized tire the rule of thumb is you can go upto 138% wider then the rim. Or the rim is 73% the width of the tire.. As for tire height, as tall as you can get them. I'm running 215mm wide semi low profiles on 6" wide rims and they work great, no weird wear.

More weight means tougher axles means bigger diffs means less clearance... I like my little light weight surprise machine.

Yeah, thanks anyway.. MY assumptions keep getting worse and worse when it comes to these electrical things... I drove the car to the city yesterday and back. I got about 3 hours of driving in and still no error... Glad it's working now.. But more problems (not EJ related gladly, but) the left hood bracket rusted up and then broke pushing that bit that runs along the windscreen up and making a bit of a mess of the whole bracket and stuff down there.. The rear right suspension is making a really bad knocking noise.... And it smells like the car is leaking oil onto the exhaust somehwere... But hey, it's not a Subaru if it doesn't leak oil everywhere. I am getting to the point where I'd like a new car... But lucky for the little Subie I don't have anywhere near enough money for one.

Yeah, pretty common.. Heres a Brumby only a hundred kms or so away from me forsale http://cgi.ebay.com.au/SUBARU-BRUMBY_W0QQitemZ300142624689QQihZ020QQcategoryZ135963QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem You see the toppers on many other trucks as well. My brothers 4runner has one, but thats different as it is really just a fiber roof for a wagon (because theres no wall between the tray and the cabin.) As for what you said Conney, I'd just use a huge chain and lock, but that's cos I really don't like the look of the toppers. And heres the solution to the other problem you talked about, rust: http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/subaru_brumby_rollbar.jpg & http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/subarubrumby_superlites_back_beach.jpg Tonneau cover! Yes, I'm a ricer, I take look over practicality!

Now all you need is to put those 37"s on your subie

I'm just going to come out and say this finally. I really don't like the look of those canopies... If you want a wagon, get a wagon. Now you can flame me. P.S. that buggy is SICK! How does it get drive to the rear wheels? Is the axle missing?

^^ Yeah.. Best thing to do is look at spet by step.. Like, do the trans swap, then the 5 lug, the the engine, and some where through the lift in.. Just don't through it in the shed to do it all at once.

Yes, I very often do call them bits-r-missin's.. But for some reason I held that back the other day.... Still, they go pretty hard.

Yeah, I have to admit its quite complex when you accidentally pull a synchro apart and need it back together... But it's not hard, just need to learn how it works and then it's all easy.. Just a bit time consuming. You can get a standard 3.7 ratio FT4WD box from a turbo EA82 and just use an adapter plate, but you still have to put up with crappy 1.19 to 1 low range.. I do suggest getting a junker gearbox and pulling it apart before you take the job of a multiple gearbox build on. I got my self pretty deep in a few places...

You don't need to pull the engine to do the job. It's pretty simple and you'll only need two new exhaust and inlet gaskets plus the head gasket. The Gregories manual explaines it all. Basically... unbolt inlet manifold and move slightly away (three bolts on each side.) unbolt exhaust y-pipe. remove rocker cover (2 bolts) Remove rocker arm assembily (two bolts) pull push rods out and keep in the right order remove all head nuts (9 of which I think) Pull the head off, might have EGR, which might need removing too. clean it all up and then put it all back together. I can get the three step head torque specs for you, but normally the new head gasket comes with that info on the packing. You should be able to get new head gaskets (not OEM) for under $20 and the other 4 gaskets will come to less then $30. Being the EA81, it's super easy! EA82 is well, not that bad... but....

Performance (the wheel company that makes them in Australia) will do them in any patten you ask for, for a price of cause.... You can actually buy wheels that are undrilled from companies I have heard and get some body to drill them out to what you want as well.. It's just it all comes down to $$$..

It is possible to build a 3.9 FT4WD box with a 1.59 to 1 low gear, but you need a standard EA82 PT box or a EJ D/R box and EA82 low range gearset, and XT6 S/R FT box. Little hint here: After I get the auto locker for the R160 diff made I might be looking at getting some lockable EJ centre diffs made for a small fortune.. We'll see.. hehehehe