Phizinza

Great.. Well fingers crossed. I told the place it was a 9/96 and they said it will work..

Found an entire engine reseal kit with 1.25mm MLS head gaskets express EMS to me for $160aud. So about $145usd. I'm happy with that. Cheers for the help. Oh, and for future reference is the DOHC valve cover gaskets all the same for the EJ25 range? As in, do valve cover gaskets from EJ255 and EJ257 fit the EJ25D?

I haven't pulled the engine apart yet. And I haven't pulled one of these 25D's apart before.. I think I've found a place overseas that will post express to me with the correct gasket set. So I think I'll be right.

I'm having trouble sourcing head gaskets for the EJ25D in Aus for less than $300AUD However I can get a hold of "EJ25 0.55mm Pair 11044 AA641 11044 AA642" for $60. They are Subaru OEM MLS so they say. Just wondering if these will work on the EJ25D. As I understand it, the D used 1.3mm thickness gaskets, so these would up compression. But would they cause interference? Cheers, Phiz

This is how I made one.. Never used it though http://offroadingsubarus.com/fitting-the-ej22-subaru-engine-into-a-subaru-brumbybrat/

look at the middle pic. I made a plate with two tying plates using the original bolts and put an 18mm hole in the plate to take the taper of the Rockey ball joint.

Hi, I need to know to distance between the top of an EJ block to the bonnet of an EA81 body. If you have lift, just minus the lift amount off. Also please measure from the "EJ2X" stamping on the engine. Thanks heaps in advance!

No, not with this wishbone setup. But we weren't after more travel so it didn't bother me.

A fan of my facebook page "Offroading Subarus" suggested people here may be interested in the modifications we did to our race car to ensure we stopped bending struts over jumps. Just a quick disclaimer... I would do many things differently if I were to do it again. Mainly I would make a completely custom wishbone instead of using one from another car. I found the shortest wishbone I could at the wreckers, which was from a Daihatsu Feroza. We cut out the "chassis rail" and welded in some 60x30x6 made up C section. Bolted the arm to it. Made up plates to go where the strut used to on the knuckle with 18mm holes for the top ball joint. These plates have two tabs going down to where the two bolts hold the strut in usually and also part of an old strut welded to the top plate going into the knuckle. The wishbones were used upside down and the mounting of the ball joint changed by making two more holes closer into the pivot point. The wishbone arms were then shortened and reinforced to clear the wheels. I had my brother in law make up some 24mm wheel spacers for the front for a little bit more clearance from the wishbones for when turning under travel. I used late model Nissan Pathfinder/Navara front struts/coilovers with Mitsubishi Pajero springs cut down to about 70% length. Using the lathe I drilled out 25mm bar with a 12mm hole to take the 190mm long M12 bolt. The struts had a 14mm bush so I made an adapting bush from part of the bar. Top strut tops were original Subaru, rubber pressed out while being heated. Pathfinder strut top cut down to make a top spring perch only which was welded to the bottom of the Subaru strut top while a Pajero strut top was used on top of the Subaru strut top to hold the shockers thread. Holes had to be cut in the hood to clear the shocker threads. Extra plating over the "chassis rail" was welded/bolted on Hopefully I didn't miss anything... We survived the entire weekend with only needing to replace one slightly bending radius rod. There is a little bit of bend on the left hand side but I can't pick where it is, I can only tell because the left wheel has negative camber now where as after these mods both were a little positive. If you want to see the punishment we put this car through have a look at my video post in the other section under rallying. And to give you an idea of how weak the factory struts are last year we went through 7 struts over 8 two minute laps of racing.

The competition we were up against, along with our maroon coluored wagon in a couple of shots

I'd just like to share with you the video from last months race at Loveday's Dirt Wars Round 3 race (in South Australia). I compiled the video as a single lap of the track but used a few laps with different angles to make it up. We weren't as competitive as we hoped we'd be but with some better tread next year we should be able to make it back to the top!

It's on my old sedan, but essentially the same, have a read http://offroadingsubarus.com/83sedan_4wd.html

Because i don't want an ecu at all and we didn't get anything like what that GM had here in Australia. I just and a simple carb..

From what I understand the headers joined together are tuned to run better at certain RPMs. This is achieved by the exhaust pulses fron one side of the engine effectivly pulling the exhaust out the other side as it escapes the exhaust pipe. This is why equal length headers are usual better for performance. Its no problem to join them, but easier if it wasn't needed our wouldn't help hp.

We're looking at changing the exhaust setup on our EA81 race wagon. We want to get it out of being bashed and because the radiator is in the back now we were thinking of brining the exhaust forward and up to the hood or maybe out the side where the jack used to mount. Question is with only around 2ft of pipe on each head would it need to be joined as in like the y-pipe joins it or would running it separate not harm performance? At the moment we just run the y-pipe, nothing else and it runs great. But after last race the left hand header got flattened to around 15mm thick in one section. Thanks,

Here's a photo. I just punched a screw driver through the cap and levered it out. Looks like a disty could be mounted if i slot the cam and make an adapter from those 3 bolts

Ah right... I'm trying to see if the cam has any way of driving a distributor on the back of it such as ej22's do. Thanks

Mine looks different to the bolt in ones. It is a rubber coated plug, twists but won't pull out. It had no bolts holding it in. I'll try and get a photo tomorrow.

How do you remove the cap in the back of the head covering up the cam?

Have seen these, except I need to have petrol as well as LPG because not all service stations have LPG, especially in the Outback when 4WDing.

Trust me when I say I checked, double checked and triple checked grounds on both cars mentioned. Hell, the outback has about 6 grounds to the engine, all freshly cleaned, still all the issues. I'm not saying EFI is bad, I'm saying I want a carb. I don't care what others want, if they are happy with the EFI then good for them. I've done it, and made up my mind that I want to try a carb. Thank you

I have a little bit of Subaru background. 8 years ago I bought a Brumby (BRAT) as my first car. It had a true dual carb EA81 in it, some lift etc. I bought 27" tyres for it, bullbar rollbar etc etc. Still not content I installed a EJ22 with EFI. The task was not over my head and it would be pretty easy for me to do again. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/68441-brumby-conversion-ej22-hybrid-awd-center-lock-success/?hl=%2Bej22+%2Bft4wd I had trouble with the EFI a lot though and it costed me a fair bit of money for all those little things you don't think about when installing an engine. First up was the fuel lines, they need to be upgraded to EFI ready. And a fuel pump.. Then there is the old sensors on the engine, that need replacing because they throw codes. And you have to hook up custom VSS and blah blah.. Oh and don't get me started on the never ending IAC issues! I've also had much experience with the model of car the EJ25 I have comes out of. The EFI has run me up the wall with issues so much so I am getting rid of the car because it pisses me off with drivability all the time. Half of these issues are to do with EFI programing. I can't see why it runs the way it does, but that is how Subaru programmed it and due to its age it is not re-programmable. And a aftermarket computer is $$$. The symptoms I am having include touchy throttle (because of the IAC opens by itself as soon as the ECU detects TPS change) This means I cannot cruise at 50 to 60kph without going on and off the throttle. The engine is also plagued by a knock code which for the life of me I can't stop popping up. I've tried changing the plugs/coils/leads/fuel/knock sensor/MAP/IAC/etc. I've also logged the ECU readouts while it has done it which show no reason why it is doing it either. When this code pops up (normally when I need to accelerate to change lanes or what ever) the car loses power and pisses me off even more. So. Now my experience with carbs. I can, and have, stripped down and cleaned carburettors on the side of the road and been back on my way within 20 minutes. They have caused less issues than EFI has in my driving experience. They are much easier and cheaper to setup with LPG. They have been proven to be able to supply good power. They can be diagnosed with eyes, fingers and ears (not computers). When they go wrong (in my experience) they still limp you home. Now just to let you know, I study and teach IT at VET level. Not automotive IT, but I do have a understanding of programming and how to use computers. This all leads me to the point where I want a carburettored car again. And as much as I love the EA81 engine, it just doesn't have the potential (with the dollars I have) for the power I require. However, another Brumby with a 2.5l carb'ed engine should do it just fine. Thank you people for your help and suggestions so far. And no the the SU, not a fan of those carbs.

Looks like a incredibly complicated carb, nothing like the simple layout of the Holley's

I had a Holley similar looking to that a couple of years back off of a Rover 3.5. Sold it though. Forgot what model it was. I'm looking to also run LPG through a ring on the intake. I'm not incredibly carb savvy, what do you mean by fuel contained in the to bowls? What would this be for?

When i get on the computer I'll explain my reasons...