Phizinza

Ahh.. ok.. I looked at a speedo from a standard 82 wagon and it had the odometer inside the speedo unit, where as mine is inbetween the speedo and the tacho.. But anywho Looks like I've got it working now! I used the speed sensor from the EA82 cluster and mounted it near the propshaft, two magnets, proper wiring, and it works! What I done wrong was wire the other side of the reed switch to 12V. Where it needed to be ground (Thanks yegoshin!) Heres a few pictures, but you can go to my site and have a look at the article if you want to read more. http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ej_conversion_vss1.jpg http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ej_conversion_vss4.jpg http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ej_conversion_vss6.jpg http://offroadingsubarus.com/ej22swap_vss.html Still not 100% sure its working, but she drove well for a good 10 minutes and she still has no codes. Where as before (when I had the wiring wrong) she through up the code 33 within a couple of minutes. I'll update if it doesn't work still...

They look familiar.. http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/subarubrumby_front2_03-june-06.jpg Only I got cheap S/H 6stud ones off ebay. A lot of people have those 15x6 4x140 here in Aus, but we seem to have a lot of "richer" Subaru owners here.

Great buy.. The EA81 is bullet proof in my mind (100x better then the later EA82 engine, IMHO.) It will leak oil somewhere sometimes soon, if not already. But thats totally normal and it wouldn't be a Subaru if it didn't. I'm guessing it's a dual range 4sp? You will find the shifter linkage gets sloppy and makes it feel like reverse gear is going bad. But if you fix the linkage when you start noticing it you may be able to save your reverse gear. You can fit a Weber 32/36 carby and it will have a fair bit more pick up and go. Plus a 2" to 2 and a quarter inch exhaust system with a straight through muffler will add some power and make it sound 100x better also. Also keep an eye on the body and use something like fish oil in all the guards and external parts of the body to stop the rust.. Theres heaps more, but I can't revel all the secrets your car holds.. You'll have fun learning along the way when she throughs up a problem. Just jump on here and ask what ever you want (after searching of cause.) Oh and welcome to the forum.

See now thats what I'm talking about.. I don't get it how everyone puts leafs in when from what I can see coil leading and trailing arms would be so much easier!I'll keep an eye on this thread. Should be interesting seeing the finished (ha, projects can never get finished) product! Great sketch too BTW.

Oh no.. Not Mitsubishi!!! haha... Good luck to him with the build.

Looks like he'll be getting some three wheeled babies! I've put half a tonne (500kg) of gravel in ther back of my Brat.. But it didn't like it. I've stuck a Yamaha YZ250 in the back too. But the lastest thing I don't think many people would do in a car or truck is climbing a steep clay hill with ruts deeper then my suspension will travel foot to the floor at 6,000RPM. Took a couple of attempts but she got up there... Not subaru but, when I was younger and had a gokart (150cc 4strocker, racing kart.) We used our Bits-r-missin Magna (dunno if you got those, but heres a pic of one. Totally POS cars, FWD with a 2.6L) to tow a wrapped up pile of concret reinforcing around our small paddock to flatten a track out.. Hahaha

I'm in South Australia a short drive out of Adeliade. The problem with the speedo is because I am using the dash out of a coupe which has a tacho in the cluster the normal speedo's don't fit. Thanks for the offer but I'm sure I can figure something out. I've found that the 87 EA82 wagon has a reed switch in the speedo. It reads 4 pulses a rotation. The speedo is about half speed of the output shaft on the gearbox (propshaft.) So with two magnets on the propshaft and the reed switch next to it it should work... However this is not the case, I just can't get the ECU to be happy with it. It is getting some single obviously as it throughs the code up earlier then without the speed sensor pluged in. But it still gives the code. I've worked out the switch stays on for about a sixth of the rotation and on the original speedo it was about an eighth. Really if I could get it to a quater it should be perfect but I doubt it will work even then. I don't know why it doesn't work, but, does anyone know if the ECU grounds the speed sensor or does the speed sensor wire have a positive charge?...

At least your pretty safe in something like that.. Uni body chassis and solid chassis ya know..

^^ same as him... hahaha Looks interesting, Should be 10 times better with the back chopped off..

Those autos have crappy AWD too... :-\ IMHO that is... :-p

I put 9mm plug leads on my EA81dc along with new NGK plugs with 1.3mm gap and a Mallory Pro Master coil.... I felt no difference.. Your doomed unless you do some major mods if you want power. My EA81dc will hopefully be getting much higher compression, webers on top of each head, big exhaust of cause, MSD full electronic ignition (I hate disty's.) Then, I hope to get some decent high end power.. Maybe with some upgraded valve springs I might be able to get her running happy at 10K RPM and maybe higher then 140hp... I can only dream right now as I can't afford the carbies and thats where my project on this starts at..

Haha, up to the top we go again! I pulled a EA82 cluster apart and found its speed sensor.. I don't really know what I was looking for but when I found it I was sort of supprised that it is just a magnetic swtich. Got no idea why that supprised me but eh.. So I've got some magnets and I've got the little switch. I plan on fitting them to the rear of the gearbox to read off the propshaft. Plenty of silicone and some kind of mount for the swtich and it should be done.. I'm pretty sure now my fuel surging, cuts, high idle and ruff running is due to this VSS code. That's because for the first half hour of driving the car after the ECU is reset it is great, then at around that time the CEL comes on and then the engine gets worse from there on in. And the only code is 33.. So time to fix that.. Although I do have one problem, the bottom of my car is coated in mud from last weekend..... Stupid me... reed switch = magnetic switch.. Just showing off my noob knowledge.. So of casuse the speed sensor is just a reed switch, I've been told that a million times.. So here I am not know all these names and I'm building all this stuff.. Some times I find it amazing that I build this things and then trust them with my life considering my limited knowledge....

haha.. thats awesome.. One good reason to join up eh? I've been using a hydraulic powered ride on earth mover for the last week, same kinda controls to a tank really, and it's great fun.. But it gets to your hands pretty quickly.

Haha, they look evil mate... I love the "side biter" tread.. So whats the tread width measure whne fitted to the wheels?

Good find. I have a laugh to myself when people complain about there being no aftermarket parts for old subies.. Theres heaps, you just have to find what brand they are made for normally. So many parts off other cars fit Subaru's, guess I should be surprised as they are all just cars after all.

When looking at it, most of the 2WD jap trucks have the right offset you are after. But there is no guarantee with this stuff. Old cars get different parts all the time.

If you donate you get heaps more storage.. I would say do it if you have the time and another car you can use. And expect it to take quite a few weeks making it work right. And if it works right to start off with, lucky you haha.

Simple answer = EJ2EA write up by Numbchux Read and thal shall learn.

I had a dyno sheet for a stock brumby (close enough) from a guy I met ages ago. It got all of 27kw or so atw in 4WD... hahaha..

Wow.. All I got when I bought my car was a all the receipts the previous owner kept and the receipt from 01 when he bought it. I just recently found all that info and found how much he spent on it, which was a bit stunning to say the least. ($5500 for the car in 01, plus about $3800 addons, then in 05 I bought it for $2900 and it's now upto about $6200. Of cause keep in mind this is all $AUD and prices here for Subaru's are naturally higher anyway.)

Have you had a look yet? If it's just a bent radius rod, it's pretty cheap and easy. Heres a pic with names (I use anyhow) of components you have under their. Oh, and BTW that control arm has been modified and the radius rod too, but they are still both in the same place.

The 14" wheels run 27x8.5R14 Kumho Mud Terrains. Well they measure 26.4x7.75, but you get the picture. The 15" mags run a 215/60R15 (25.5" OD) directional street tyre. I don't think you'd be able to run these on a stock ride without bashing the wheel well a little in the rear of the front guards. Maybe some 205/55R15's would fit in nicely? Although that's getting a bit low profile for what you need by the sounds of it. The reason I picked 215/60R15's was because it was the maximum width I could have on a 6" wide rim and I wanted some beefy tire wall to show. I likes me tire wall nice and beefy

Don't ya just hate how these places say "yeah, we'll have them in by next week" (or what ever) and they really don't have a clue. Then they stuff you round with what is usually another fake date that they'll be in... My message to them is "look into it first, do not lie!" Bad luck man, hope you find a better place that can get them in for you..

For the love of almighty, NOT GOLD!! Bronze is a good choice I reckon. Orange would look awesome too (but everyone should know I like blue and orange, ehehe)

Very sweet looking brat.. I always wanted the t-tops So, lift it 3 to 4 inches and some 27x9.5 Swampers and you'll be set?