Phizinza

My brothers fiat x1/9 1.3L N/A sounds almost like a little Ferrari with no air filter.. And it's stock as a rock. Well setup intakes make beautiful noise. Mine not included.. It makes horrid humming noise at idle.

Another common mistake people make is thinking the good noise of an engine comes out the exhaust.. I said to a mate once, Loud exhausts are like singing out your arse, where as the good noise comes from the intake.

I like my cars war wounds..

Flair red is what my mind comes to every time.. It's just a great looking red.. I don't want to paint the whole car as I know I'll just scatch the new paint and feel bad.. So the old scratched paint looks sweet. It's just I need a new hood and the roof needs new paint as its flaking up and water is getting under it.. I'm going to just paint the roof and new hood red and like that... My noughbor is learning air brushing, so maybe some else will come for the roof or hood down the track.. She'll need some practice pieces..

Awesome.. I'll look at that tomorrow at a tool shop.. Guess I'll just have to buy some new seals and see what I can do with one of these diffs.

ozifield and SJR are the only constant ones I know of for the US.. Allied armament done or are doing a group buy. But I think they are still getting out of the Subaru's.. Or there are enough posts on this board about making them yourself you should be right with just searching through the old posts.. Hardest thing with making them yourself is the strut tops and the steering extension. Personally I'd check out SJR lifts. I'm pretty sure his got a 6" lift for your car.

Problem with honda drivers is they never rev her up to 8k... It's almost like they are scared.. But thats the only time those hondas really do fly and sound great.

But don't worry, when you turn 20 it all changes...

I grounded mine to the chassis right by the pump.

This is a question I have asked myself and I ask other people I know sometimes... If I were to paint the Brumby a new colour, what colour should it be? My answer always comes back to the same everytime I look at it.

But this is where your wrong.. The comment is 100% correct! :-p

Personally I think it's the unbalanced firing order. I say unbalanced because it fires one side then the other. I reckon I should start a thread "You can alway's tell an Auto by the sound of the engine!"

You don't ask for much huh?? It took me like half an hour to do that last pic.. Haha.. I'll give it ago maybe next weekend.

I haven't done that yet because I didn't want to ruin the seals.. But I'll probably be getting new seals if I install a diff locker anyhow. So maybe I'll give that a go. What about the stub axles? is it just a size 8mm hex? Or is it some other design? Any special tool I need for it?

Anymore ideas?

Awesome.. have fun. I tried getting wheel spin in my FT4wd EJ22 Brat... Didn't work, just lots of clutch smoke

My brothers diesel 2.4L has enough trouble pushing the 35's along. And the diesels have lots more torque.. I'd go the dual case, gearing is what makes these trucks what they are IMHO..

When you turn left you want your right wheels to have negative camber... Old subarus, and possibly the newer ones, do it all wrong.. They have stupid amounts of positive camber Although the EA82 did fix their castor so the camber while turning isn't so bad. Basically you want your shocker leaning backwards slightly and you want your wheel with a tad of negative camber when in a straight line. Have you checked your down travel? My brothers 83 wagon didn't have problems with wheel spin until we replaced the springs to get it another inch of lift. Then it spun like crazy and it was because he only had about an inch of down travel.

Like.... that?

I tried some of that Rustoleum paint around the bottom of the car yesterday. And today I peeled most of it off.. :-\ It's one thing being a tough resistant paint, but it's another thing completely being able to stick to other paint.. Nah, I'm sure it's because I painted it on a cold day and it was humid and then 12 hours later it rained.. Looks like the water got under the Rustoleum and now it's all crapped. Oh, and the Rustoleum done an awesome job at sticking to the masking tape I used, so good in fact I had to run a blade along next to it before I could take the tape off.. I'm going to try a masking shield next time and not worry so much about little overspray.. But now all I can do is wait for a sunny day.

I think his problem isn't the strut tops but the fact the EA82 crossmember has different spacing between control arm mounts. I have no idea if the XT6 is any different again.

Like this? My headlight surrounds are now black BTW, so although it looks like it continues from the grill good the black is all there now. I was thinking about the black wheels a sec ago and thought, nah don't like them.. Then I looked at the photochop and I thought, yeah they look pretty mean.. Damn it.

I think you can buy PB here, but I'm pretty sure I've only seen it once.. And I'm not sure where that was.. For the other, only ever heard of it on American sites.

I am having lots of trouble with one of the R160 3.7 ratio diffs I have getting off the DOJ cups. I've tried the smash it with a huge hammer and that didn't work (I only done it for 15 to 20 mins though, so maybe more?) But is there a better way? I've soaked the stubs in WD40 for a few days and it still didn't help. I also have another diff (R160 3.9 ratio) I am pulling down so I can get an auto locker re engineered to fit.. Problem I am having is I cannot get the stub shafts off.. I think I've just screwed the bolts in the stubs as I used a tight fitting long skinny hex socket (5/16ths I believe, had to hammer it a little to get it all the way on) and used a impact air gun. Now the socket just goes around on the bolts. Anyone know what tool I need to get these off (another diff now obviouslly as this on is screwed now.)? Cheers,