Phizinza

Another couple of things to add. I'm running a bottle of injector cleaner through the tank at the moment (in a recommended dose.) I also have found out that if I floor it at anything under 1700rpm it just splutters and won't accelerate, or decelerate. Still haven't looked into the VSS yet. My other ECU (which was the cause of other idle problems) never had code 33 and never had this hesitation at under 1700.. So it sounds like the code 33 is my problem... Would be sweet if I could get the computer to ignore it.

Just for your information compressing a JPG image is useless as it is already a compressed format. The bar looks good, might want to paint it though What color is your car?

Just to add.. I've also been experiencing bad vibrations when using the clutch from a stop. But after adjusting the IAC and throttle screw (trying to set to what it should be from a service manual I have) it has pretty much gone away. Although I can't get the engine to idle smooth below 1100rpm.. If I had the money, I think I'd go out and get megasquirt for this heap of ____... The idle switch is working fine. But the TPS measures 10.6Kohms fully closed and 2.4Kohms fully open. The service manual I have says it should be 1Kohm closed and 4.8Kohm open..? Both my TPS's I have measure the same. I think I need to go buy a manual for this thing.

My bro got his new tires... We're going to make them fit with cutting and flaring today hopefully.

Oh, I alos now have a complete set of second hand sensors so I can test things now.. I'll re check voltages on the main relay again as well.

I forgot to mention a few things. When I took the car for it's first test drive after the new suspension it didn't have the o2 sensor plugged in (ran really good concidering) but I cleared the ECU and plugged it in, no change and no o2 code so I asume it is working. The car was running quite alright before I re setup the suspension and that was with the "new" ECU and nothing else changed. All test plugs are unplugged, I only use the black ones to check the codes every so often. Also the volt meter drops and gains about half a volt with the dimming of the clock and park light. Volts sit on 13 to 14 on the gauge which I have adjusted to be correct when I had the dash apart. But I'll check it with a multimeter. I wonder if I can hook up the speed sensor wire into my speedo..? hmm. I'll look into that. But I haven't heard of any EJ swappers having problems or having to hook this wire up so I assume I didn't have to..

Alright.. So now I have the Brumby going again after the suspension mods (with it's EJ22 from 89 Liberty, same as Legacy) I'm having some trouble. First the idle is sitting on 1600rpm, I haven't tried adjusting the idle screw as it sometimes idles at 1000rpm, so adjusting it might make it sometimes stool. My major question here is do I need to adjust the idle on the IAC and TB idle screw specially? Or do I just set the IAC anywhere and then set the TB idle screw till the car idles at 900? Second. The other day I went for a long drive, lots of stops as well. But when I was following a mate through traffic it developed a random fuel cut. Basically it would just stall (only all the electrics would stay working like the tacho) and then start again. This was happening under acceleration and deceleration along with just cruzing. So it was happening all the time. For periods between a millisecond and about a second every so often. Maybe 20 seconds apart, maybe 5 minutes apart. So, what could this be? After stopping the car and checking the codes which happen to be only code 33 (speed sensor, not wired in) and then starting it again I didn't get the problem after that. Also with this "new" ECU I get the speed sensor code, is this going to cause a problem? Or is it fine to have the error? I don't know how to fix it as I can't wire it into my speedo. Oh, and another problem I've been getting. After test driving the car a little (testing the new suspension) I noticed the park brake light and the clock were flashing (not going completely out, just getting dimmer) at a constant rate of about 2 times a second. This stopped when I unplugged the power to my ECU. I haven't noticed this before. Then when I replugged in the ECU it wasn't happening, but after some driving it was back. Hope this isn't to confusing...

What size are the wheels on the yellow and red buggy? And did they come 4x140 stud pattern or did your mates drill them out as that stud pattern? I was thinking of building a buggy, but I'm thinking more on the solid axle rock crawler style. I need something under 600kg though because I want to tow it legally behind the Brat.

My brother is picking up preowned brand new 35x12.5 Mickey T's on Wednesday Brain, what size tires and lift is on your yota?

But wheel spin when shifting into 3rd gear is different...

Sorry for the delay.. I've been very busy. So the different things I done this time round were... Use math... Ok, it's a little more complicated then that. First thing I noticed this time round is the left wheel is quite a bit further out then the right on is. This must be due to the strut tower being bent or something. I also made sure I cut the arms with some angle so the bushings would sit right and I could stay at only a little positive caster/radius. With the "new" un-modified engine crossmember and the old control arms in place we measured a 150mm vertical on the flat inner part of the wheel. We then used a small right angle ruler lever and another steel rule to figure out how much the wheel needed the wheel was positive camber. (I have pics of this I'll get later.) Using this measurement, and the measurement of the top of the strut to the bottom of the balljoint, say 5mm out over 150mm = 24mm over 720mm. As in 720 divided by 150 = 4.8 x 5 = 24mm. This ment the arm needed to be 24mm longer then my modified one. Plus it needed an extra 10 degrees facing backwards. So using a peice of paper and a angle tool we figured out that cutting 8 to 9mm out from one sideand leaving the other side connected that the "new" EA82 arm would gain its extra 10degrees and it would have 24mm more then the old modified arm. (this is entirely possible with original EA81 arms in place instead of stupid modified EA82 arms.) So after cutting, bending testing, cutting, testing, welding, testing, reinforcing, welding and testing again it was close enough. Then we done the same on the right side. Which just to let you know how far the left wheel is out of whack with the left it needed 23mm cut out of the new unmodified EA82 arm. Now it sits very nicely with only a tiny bit negative camber and a tiny bit positive caster. There will be a better write up and all that on my site hopefully before next week. With pictures and all. And in a borat voice I finish with GREAT SUCCESS!

EJ gearbox requires custom crossmember, earliy EJ DOJ cups for the axles (you won't need these because your starting with a turbo EA82) and a shortend propshaft (unless your startin with an EA81 car.) If it's EA82 car all the shifter stuff should line up I think.

Very awesome, well done.

Thanks. It's just a pain it doesn't have a locked rear anymore. But I'm working on that slowly. Got a few ideas. Of cause no money to back them up with. My brother will be taking his 84 4runner next time. It might have lockers and M/T's by then. Should be some good fun.

This is what we done to a mates car for a snorkle. It's a 2" pipe welded up with a proper snorkle top. The EA82 now uses a modded EJ22 airbox and filter, and a weber

I'd say without a hood scoop you would want to run a water to air cooler. I'm pretty sure you want plenty of air flow across the intercooler otherwise there isn't much point having it. Just my 2 cents

The ring around the outside would stay polished alloy. The bullbar is the same (infact we just finished polishing it yesterday) the sports bar is stainless steel. White is to normal. Seen to many Brumby's with white superlites. Gold is even more commen. But black. I've only seen that scheme on Minis and other old classics. Yeah, thats the options I was playing with. I do like the white wheels on these cars, but when I put the silver superlites on it just looked so much better. And I'm starting to really like this black and silver idea. I'm going to have to blacken up all my trim as well. Whats the best way to get them black again and keep 'em black?

Well I've never accidentally pulled the stub out, but I've had a coupe of five speeds apart and know the bit your talking about. Any bigger hammer and it will be a sledge.. Just waiting for my brother to get up and then I'll get back down in the shed and see what we can do.

I'll give it another go tomorrow. And if that fails I'll just have to go to the wrecker and pick up a EA82 shaft with joints and all.

I do like gold too, but the two reasons I don't want to paint them gold is; firstly because gold wont suit my ute in my mind, and second most superlites are gold, I like my car to stand out. Gloss black is a definite. I want them to still shin so you can see the styling..

I use a tape measure and align myself. What can they really align on a stock EA82?? Steering is about it. Not hard to do it yourself really.

Yeah, just trying not to damage it. We hit it a good 30 to 40 times..

My Monroe front shocks in the Brumby have about 2" more down travel then the originals. Not sure on up travel but they go up pretty high.

Aftermarket companies make shocks to fit, KYB, Monroe, etc. Also I have heard of cutting the casing and putting in a insert type shock for long travel for the fronts.

That's how I thought.. But we clamped it in the vice, used a 7lb hammer and hit it with a brass punch on the inner race. We hit it as hard as we could and nothing happend