Phizinza

I posted this on my forum but thought I'd see what you bunch thought about it. http://offroadingsubarus.com/forum/comments.php?DiscussionID=46 I'm thinking about painting my Performance Superlite 15" wheels with black spokes and silver rims. I want to get some 28" A/T's on it in the future but for now she'll stay on the 215/60R15's.. I use a set of Nissan 14" with the kumho M/T's for offroading at the moment.

How is this done?? And can you put them back together? I'm wanting to put a good EA81 CV joint on a EA82 shaft. I'm leaving the EA82 DOJ on the shaft, so just wanting to remove the outer CV. In my service manual it says these don't come apart. But I know people have taken them apart for RWD conversions. So whats the deal?

G'day. The L-series (EA82 for those that don't know what us Aussies are talking about) are relatively upright caster from factory. But the Camber is still positive at stock ride hight. Do you want to lower the car? I get the feeling (not really sure though) that if you lower it a bit, say 2 inches, you might correct your camber. And if your using Liberty (or Legacy as they are in the US) uprights (knuckles) you will get the camber adjuster bolt between the shocker and upright. This will be able to fine adjust it I would think. At stock, I think it's 1.5degrees positive camber for your car. Although, my Brumby was so bent it seems that one side was near 2degrees while the other was going on 4! I reckon for high speed cornering in one of these old cars you will want the bottom about 1 to 1.5 inches further forwards from vertical, but that's just a guess. I'm really just aiming for longer tyre life and slightly better cornering, that's why I've only gone a little positive camber this time. With adjustable strut tops, camber bolt adjusters and adjustable caster rods (radius rods) I think you'll be able to set it up to the optimum cornering performance.

Good point.

Woha! that's a lot of picies!! So whats the TT like vs a single turbo when it comes to minimum RPM boosting? Should be a fair bit better offroad then a single turbo. You always need to do the important things first eh? Looking good so far. Decided on what box to use yet?

Progress is being made on the control arm mod. This time I'm making them the right length (both quite different, car must be all bent and twisted) and not using camber adjusters. But I still have the caster adjusters. I'll explain how we have made the new arms (just modded EA82 ones again) tomorrow maybe, it's late and I gotta head to bed now. It involved rulers, levels, paper, pencils, and some math... Plus an angle grinder, mig welder, drill and a foot or two of 40mm wide bar steel... I'll explain later. Oh, looks like I'll need those EA82 shafts now as well.

In my mind, it's a Subie, it's not suppose to compare. They are a completely different animal for different kind of people that have a need for Subaru's "good" abilities. Well, most of the time this is true. Theres no way you can bag a Toyota offroad, but you can bag it about it's onroad. Same applies to Subaru only vice versa. Well that's just what I think. Toyota's are awesome and rock the rocks, don't get me wrong. Subaru's just have a thing about them. Good starters and crossovers. Still waiting on those lockers from the US to arrive for the 4Runner.

I've been looking at Hella and Narva since those brands are readily available in Australia. On the Hella website I found the bulbs I was talking about before, xenon gas filled incandescent lights. I thought I wasn't wrong. But the ones that interest me are the +30 and +50 halogen. Narva also sell these. Is there a much shorter life with the +50's over the +30's? I did find my lighting problem, it's just bad wires and a drop of 2 to 4 volts at the lights. So I'm going to fix that up, but still interested in some new better globes. http://www.hella.com.au/cgi-bin/catalogue.pl?flcmd=prodver&flrecid=20 http://www.hella.com.au/cgi-bin/catalogue.pl?flcmd=prodver&flrecid=37 Also read this page http://www.narva.com.au/Globes_21.html

Yes, I get between 22 - 30 mpg in my EJ22 Brat, always on the same fuel. Some days I just like to open her up.I personally couldn't see how a small difference in octane rating could blow up your engine. Or even leave some deposit within just say 100K miles. Make sure you run cat friendly injector cleaner and upper cylider lube every so offen as well to keep things clean and running good.

I put EA82 rear springs on the front of my EA81. So it can't be that hard?

Or... http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ej22swap_mazda_airconfan_fitted.jpghttp://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ea81_radiator_modified.jpg Like that? Interesting. So the ER will fit in with the EJ radiator with the wider spaced inlet and outlet hoses but in stock position?

My brother got an extra 4" travel on the rear with shockers off a bigger 4WD (you wouldn't know what a Holden Jackaroo is, but many other 4WD's have almost bolt on shockers for EA81's.) As for the front, your pretty screwed.

vice grips on so tight that with both hands you can only just squeeze them on. Then undo it with your hands or feet. And also get a new plug afterwards. If that doesn't work.. You can drill out the center of the plug, try your hardest to get it out with "easy outs" and bigger drills, and so on.. then just put a thread in that plug and use a bolt as a new plug..

.. 8x8 independent suspension truck?? (look at second: 0.15)

My question would be what fuel economy do you get with 87 vs 91 octane rated? I've always found the higher octane almost (and in some cases always) pays for itself in economy.

.. Paint?

If they are 13's and not 14's then they should fit no worries. Ofcause it all depends on the wheels offset...... 205/75R13 is 25.1", plus an inch if you ment 14's...

BTW... The FT4WD D/R box in the XT's use the same gears as the "Liberty/Legacy D/R" boxes we have in Australia. The only weakness I have heard of in the FT4WD box to turbo'd EJ power would be the center diff lock. But if you don't use boost with it locked then that is fine. I've givin my EJ22 D/R FT4WD box a real thrashing on a dry dirt drag stripe and it's happy as ever.

That last picture looks like my driveway... So many cars. I'm gonna have to boost mine soon... hehe. Looks sweet mate.

Europe? Did I miss something? Has New Zealand moved or something?

Go look in the retro fit section.. There is the exact same question with better answers.

I was thinking of lightening the flywheel as the EJ22 is giving me as much low end torque as I want and the lighter it is the quicker I'll be able to rev... And I am a rev head on the road Plus, I am now aiming me offroading more at trailing, not hardcore. I know my Subaru will never do hardcore. Any hints on limits to how light I can go? I don't want the engine running crud or the clutch to get hot enough to warp the flywheel. And I do want to keep some low end torque. I'm going to get it machined anyway so I figure may as well take some off it.

Man... I so much just want to say "screw the rules!" and put in a Tcase... Lookin good so far, keep it up.

I've got a new set of plugs here to go in the 22. What I want to know is what should I set the gap too? They are just cheapo NGK's. I've heard 0.035". But when looking at the spark off the coil pack which is a good 2/3 of an inch long I was wondering if a wider gap could be beneficial? I ran both 0.055" and 0.035" and saw no difference with my EA81 and it's Mallory Pro Master coil.

is the 2.5L pressure plate compatible with the 2.2L flywheel?