Phizinza

If you go with a manual EJ AWD box you might want to look into fitting the pinion and front diff of a 4.44 box into a Liberty D/R box running L series low range. This should work just as long as the pinion on 4.44 boxes is the same fitment onto the centre diff as the 3.9 box. This would help a LOT with your 31" tyres.

The 23 and 25 spline count are on the diff side, the hub sides are all the same. The rear dif is 23 spline always. The front diff on the turbo model is 25 spline. You can use the stubs from a 23 spline front diff gearbox but it would require you to split the gearbox apart which is quite a lot of work. What is easier is to use the 25spline driveshaft inner cups and put them on the new(?) driveshafts using the new ball race and everything. This is easy because all you need to do is loosen the boot clip, pull the boot back and remove the cups retaining ring. Then pull the cup off and fit the 25spline one on then to the reverse.

The shifter linkage is the same as a 5sp PT4WD box, so look for 5sp in EA81, I think theres something in the USRM about that. The propshaft will need to be shortened. I have no idea what works as a crossmember, but if you have steel, an angle grinder and a welder things always fit...

He must love pulling driveshafts out, unless he has some way around eating them

Mmm, I'm a banana guy myself.. With caramel.... And chocolate chips.. Mmmmm

I too would sell the 82 and drop the 22 in. Similar amount of work with both. And if you want the unreliability of the 82t you can just boost the heck out of the 22 and you'll end up with more power while your there. BTW, you might of figured I don't really like EA82's.. :-\

fatz, is this on the sedan or a wagon? What did mud rat run under his 5" lifted sedan?

Now theres a manufacturer I have heard of in Australia.. You've said it enough, and for those who wish to listen will. And for those who don't, they won't. That's just how it is. And I don't see why you should care so much, I mean you tried, why go any further.

If it reads full when sitting over night on a flat surface, it has enough oil.

Good enough reason for me mate :cool: I still think even with 4.11's you won't want to climb rocky slopes or things like that with 31"s. But for a sand rig 31"s would be awesome. You thinking 10.5" wide? Or wider?

I run dual core EA81 rad with my EJ22. Only time it needs the fans is if it sits still for more then a few minutes, or when I'm reving the hell out of it offroading slowly up a hill. Still, if I had a turbo EJ I would probably upgrade the radiator. Most people here in Australia just buy a 3 core EA81 aftermarket alloy radiator. But I like my budget modded EA81 version.

Yes.

Pretty sure Fatz is running on a 4.44 VTD Auto or something like that. So, maybe it won't be so bad? Still, it's going to put a lot more strain on the torque converter. What can't a subie do with 28.5"s that it can with 31"s?

Most here don't know what an L-series is, it's the 85 to 89 style for those who don't. I have seen a 6" lifted Brat with 30"s and seems the L can natrually take larger tires I'm guessing 6" with plenty of cutting will work.

I see where your coming from, but I have experience in both HID's in standard lenses and higher wattage in standard lenses. If you don't go too hot it works. And the HID's look great in my brothers 81 Fiat X1/9, although they are only used as low beams at the moment. I have made the mistake of putting 130w halogens in small rectangle Hella spotties, but the 100watters woke fine. Obviously high wattage in small plastic car headlights isn't going to go down well. But glass is fine.

Myth. Octane is otcane. high octane at higher altitude may burn slower so it may act like lower octane. But all contries read it the same way. A octane rating is basically comparing the fuels burn to pure 100% octane. So a 98 octane fuel burns 2% slower then pure octane.

Ok.. interesting. I got the impression from several places on the net (not just cheap ebay sellers) and from packaging that they were xenon filled. Maybe just some 90w/100w halogen H4's will do.. Where I live I get no snow, and not much fog. Does the blue help in any situation?

Thanks Jack. From there data it looks like the xenon gas with no coating has the same light output as normal halogens. I wonder what those "hyper" ones are..? When you say the blue coated bulbs suck, what K ones are you taling about. There are some that only emulate 4000K which should still be very close to being on the yellow scale. 6000K is suppose to be the only a little blue with the HID's

Well I'm not really sure. Some ofthe ones I am looking at are colored blue. I mean the ones that use the xenon gas not the halogen gas. I guess they maybe called HID look alike lights. But I know them as xenon gas filled. As far as I know the xenon gas is better then halogen, but I would like some feedback on peoples experience. I looked at the silverstar ones, but they don't say what gas they use..

Has anyone here had experience with the xenon filled bulbs? What I would like to know is, are they much better then normal halogen bulbs?

In Australia here I get a choice of 89, 91, 95, 98 and 102. I find it was actually cheaper using the 98 then anything else for mileage, and way better performing. The 102 is only at very few servos. But I used to normally just grab 91 as that is "regular" and there is more pumps with that so you don't have to wait. In the EJ I buy the highest that doesn't need to be waited for. I found most cars get better $ per KM the higher octane it is.

It will only work in the long run if you don't use gas that day. If you just delay and buy it the next day nothing will change, in the long run anyhow.. 91 or 95 in my EA81.

Where the rad sits on the chassis, on the left and right of that beam it curves up, that's what I'm talking about. You have to cut these, you can't just sit it on top of these.

Sorry, no pictures but I do know whats needed. If you remove the EA radiator you will see where the front chassis member (bit that the rad bolts to) curves up either side to the chassis rails. You need to cut the curves out and weld in square reinforcing that doesn't intrude on the space.

Good, those things are fugly I reckons. Function doesn't even over come the uglyness in my mind :-p