Phizinza

Interesting. When I put this engine in I got a Knock sensor code, but after I cleared the codes it never came back. I work on a tight budget, so new replacement parts is almost completely out of the question... But I will look into that.

So in other words, go rip all the good parts off of it and stash them in a crap car no one will look at and make sure it's not likely to be crushed. Then in a few weeks time.... :-p

My brother put a EA82 carb manifold on his EA81. The thing we found is that some (maybe older) EA81's had a smaller carb bolt pattern, and some had the same as the EA82. So I reckon the only gain when he swapped it was to be able to fit a better carb. I've looked at the manfolds side by side, and I doubt you'd get more then 1hp, if that, out of it. But as said before, the SPFI manifold won't fit the carb. Stick with your EA81 setup, or get a weber, or get SPFI. I don't think anything inbetween is worth it.

It's a good idea, but. First the major problem I am having is that now I have huge wholes in the engine crossmember the metal sleeve in the rubber bushing doesn't touch each side of the crossmember or the new cam's have made. Plus, silly me, didn't look over the whole camber adjuster thing 5 times before I started drilling and welding them on. So, my left wheel is still positive camber, which is far from ideal. Also another problem is the rubber bushings are at an unhappy angle. This is because we only shortened the arm, not angled it. And without any angle change they should be set to position the wheels 4" further forwards, not the 2" I have. And I want to put the wheels maybe an inch back because my radius/caster is kinda a bit to high... I turn the wheels and I get, quoting my brother, "uber sick ricer steering." Or in other words, wheels that have LOTS of negative camber when only at 1 rotation of the steering wheel. So it looks like I'm back to the drawing board. Still need to get to the wreckers for parts before I can do anything. And I'm sure as hell not going back to stock. That's just a stupid setup. These old cars need adjusterble camber and caster because they either weren't made straight or they are bent now. Plus with a setup that gives huge positive camber at full lock, well thats just dumb as far as I can see.

All mounted good still, well from the outside at least. Slow engine speeds, doesn't matter how fast the car is going. Anything under like 800-900 RPM and it studders. I've been trying to fix a IAC problem for ages now and it seemed after I swapped the ECU it went away, but the studder stays. I think it's doing it worse now after I went offroading. And I also have a slight exhaust leak now, so I'm thinking maybe that has made it a little worse? Hmm. I'll see if I can get my bro to get some new plugs for me today.

Well.. you can see my pictures in the "Trails" forum if you want. It held up, but it keeps ajusting it's self. This is because on the control arm, engine crossmemeber side, the metal sleeve the bolt goes through isn't in contact with the engine crossmember anymore. I tried using cut washers to fix this, but somehow they popped out, not good. I think this camber adjuster kit style is just limited. So I am planning on putting a stock engine crossmember in, then making/modfiying new control arms. I'm working on their design now, more when I have it all up and working. Time for a trip to the wreckers yard for more parts and investigation on other cars.. Just if I could put in IFS 4x4 6 lug hubs from something along with bigger CV's and double wishbone. Ohwell, I'll settle with homemade control arms.

Well... I think I have the IAC figured now. I replaced the ECU and it's now only bringing up code 33. Which the other ECU didn't have, which is weird. But hey, it drives better now. Still need to change the plugs and maybe wires. And it still needs more power :-p

Just an update.. After cleaning the IAC, testing the volts, and resistance, then then cleaning it again, clearing the ecu to many times, and more... I think it's gone. All I done was put another ECU in and now the code is gone. Although, theres a different code now.. Code 33, speed sensor? It makes sence because that wire is just cut off. So it has no speed sensor :-\ It drives good now though.. So that's nice. Just need to adjust the IAC idle position. It's idling around 1400.

Yeah, I would really love them. But it's so hard to find a t-top brumby here for less then $5000 in just stock form. I paid $2900 and it came with 14"s and a 2" lift.. It's cost me around $6500 now I thinks.

I've just been looking at a few old threads about this but none of them seem to say if it was worth it? My headlights are about as good as a few candle. So, are there any people out there using something like the Hella's as a replacement for both high and low beam? Or is there another brand that make replacement head lights? And will they be as good as what new cars headlights are like (or anywhere near as good?) I was also thinking about HID for the low beams. Although I probably can't find $500 anywhere. ?

This is a stupid question really, as I should first do simple things to see if that fixes the problem or not, but I'm going to ask this anyhow because I am bored.... This is in my Brat, but I'm pretty sure it's the engine that is the problem. When I take off, especially in reverse, the whole car shudders until I'm off the clutch all together. I thought it may be the clutch, but if I slow down so I'm running below 1000rpm the car shudders with my foot completely off the clutch. I am guessing bad spark plugs..? Car runs fine when driving, just that slow speed stuff. Another thing.. It started it after a offroad trip which loosened my centre bearing mounts, but they are all good now. I'll see if I can get some new plugs, it's just hard because I like to far from any auto store. No point driving 50km to buy $8 worth of plugs and then 50km back... As I said, stupid question as I sshould do the obvious first. So if you want, just ignore me :-p

Have you looked at bratmans thread? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=73119&highlight=torsion Might help you. That's a problem? I quite like it up a little bit. When I put my EJ in though I had to adjust it down an inch because it was just ridiculus. The brat in that pictures looks awesome I reckon... I like it so the tray sides are level, I think it looks best then.

Yes, they are interchangable.

Not 100% sure, but about 98%... I'll have a quick look in the top cover of my S/R and D/R and get back to you

If we ban him one more time, it may kill is soul.... :-p

Yes. But you would need to custom build a low range shifter rod for your original 4WD/LO selector lever. At the moment the low range is operated through the casing that holds your 4WD gears. So with a S/R rear end you won't be able to hook up the standard selector rod at all. If you want 2wd, why not pick a honda.. :-p Sorry, just had too. FT4WD 1.59D/R FTW!!!

Well.. I have heard of welding on your car killing alternators. But I haven't seem it myself, and trust me when I say I've seen enough welding on ares with the alt plugged in. But the whole not grounded right thing? Maybe he just takes stabs in the dark because all the most likely causes have been said and he just wants to say something. :-\ If the mods want him gone.. So be it. But if we keep helping the weak (in this case getting rid of "wrong" answers), then we are really going to have a population overload and there really will be no hope for our planet.. After all in less then 500 years we've gone from like a few hundred million people to 6 odd billion. Could I change the subject anymore?

A mate of mine has accord springs in the rear of his 88 wagon. He liked them alot til they blow the bottom spring cap off it's mounts on the shocker.. It happened while offroading. We figured when the shock the travel goes up the spring is first to collapses instead of the shocker, thus putting HEAPS of pressure on the spring cap and poping it off it's mounts. I believe they are just slid on the shock nd the shock haspressed out casing to hold them.. If you cut a coil off this MAY fix the problem. What my mate has done now is welded the spring caps on MUCH better and custom mounted external Toyota shockers which have way more travel then he'll ever get, but at least it won't break now. Me, personally, would of gone about things a different way. But it seems to work good.

I'd think it's out of his 87 EA82, I don't think EA81's came in blue Mines for my EA81 http://offroadingsubarus.com/pda_gps_console_mod.html

I have an EA81 here with 60,60,50,60 and it blows LOTS of blue smoky. So, if it's figures like that and no smoke, I doubt it'd be the rings. But that said, could be multiple things. To check valve seals and seats when the heads are off the motor poor kero in the valve ports nad watch for it leaking past the seat on the cylinder side. Then hold the head upsidedown blocking up the port and look for kero getting past the stem seal. You only need to hold it like this for 30 seconds or so to see how it fares. I'm pretty sure it's to hard to check rings, I guess just replace them and to a hone on the bores. And ofcause, you have headgaskets which are mostlikely the problem.

I have to admit, I snipe.... My method of bidding is in the last 30seconds place your maximum, if you get it, great, if you don't, ohwell you bid your highest. Then sometimes I just bid to get auctions moving along, haha..

I've seen so many different cars with the same device its just not funny. Only thing you have to look out for is if it has the same plug. Go to your junkyard and check some cars out. I'm sure you'll only have to pay a couple of bucks compared to new which is stupidly priced..

What I done is when looking at your photo in your gallery right click it and then click "view picture" or something like that (I'm using firefox.) Then copy that address thats in the address bar and then use the little insert picture icon in the post thread windown. Just make sure the address ends with .jpg and you should be alright.. In my Brat I use the stash next to the handbrake lever for all my coils and that.

I'm assuming this is for mates cars as well, not just your own? Well heres a line up of all my 4WDing mates weapons. From left to right: Toyota Land Crusier 100 series, 4.5L Petrol, Auto, live front axle, warn out Kumho AT's, stock as a rock. Toyota Hilux 3.0L Turbo Diesel, IFS, Bridgestone Desert Dualers, stock as a rock too. Daihatsu Feroza, 1.6L Petrol, IFS, live rear, new Kumho AT's, Stock as a rock again. Subaru Brumby, EJ22, FT4WD with center diff lock, 27" Kumho M/T's, open front and rear diffs, 2" exhaust. Subaru L-series 88 wagon, EA82 with weber, 26" Goodyear Wrangler TG's, welded rear diff. Although, the Cruiser is my mates parents car, not his.

here.. Looks good. I like custom dash stuff