Phizinza

I can't help you directly, but try looking at the 'similar threads' below and this one http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=66619&highlight=purge

So the other week a bunch of mates and I headed off to a private property called Loveday 4x4 Adventure to enjoy some 4WDing and fun on the river. If you don't know, the murray river is the largest river in Australia. It was a 3 and a half hour drive there. So good for testing my Brumby's reliability. Once we got to the property we headed to the camp site next to the river. We setup camp and the next day started the 40km 4WD track. The track starts as a winding narrow track full of tight turns. It was heaps of fun in the Subies as we were told it's fine to rally on it as it's a 1 way only track. That's the frist time where I've been around more then 1 corner completely side ways right into another. (I've done plenty of sand drifing and stuff, but sliding around ever corner for a few miniutes of really hard driving is just so much fun.) From left to right: Toyota Land Crusier 100 series, 4.5L Petrol, Auto, live front axle, warn out Kumho AT's, stock as a rock. Toyota Hilux 3.0L Turbo Diesel, IFS, Bridgestone Desert Dualers, stock as a rock too. Daihatsu Feroza, 1.6L Petrol, IFS, live rear, new Kumho AT's, Stock as a rock again. Subaru Brumby, EJ22, FT4WD with center diff lock, 27" Kumho M/T's, open front and rear diffs, 2" exhaust. Subaru L-series 88 wagon, EA82 with weber, 26" Goodyear Wrangler TG's, welded rear diff. After the rallying a mates white L series 88 Subie wagon blow a rear lower spring purch as he was using the Honda Accord springs and they wern't to friendly on the shocks. I headed to the nearest town with him in my car to try and find a replacement, then to the next town and before you knew it we were 50km away and still no parts. We headed back and decided to weld up the spring mount with some reinforcing. Silly us didn't think the shocks would be gas filled.. was fun to say the least. After that we continued on the track to a few hill climbs (sorry, no pictures of that only video which I am editing still.) Then it headed around and to a mud pit crossing. Once looked like it was a creek, but with this drought everythings drying up pretty fast. The 88 wagon was the first to have a go, almost through then stopped. Reversed out (gotta love that welded rear diff.) Had another go and go through. Then it was me in the Brumby. Went in all wrong and almost through but not at the right angle. Reversed her up and she sunk into the water (which is, BTW, about a bazillion times saltier then sea water.) The Hilux snatched me out, then I had another go and got through alright. The others took the easier root through the mud and all was good. Then it was off to the sand hills. Just tipical sand driving. I got stupidly stuck in the Brumby by trying to crawl up a hill, and got a push back down. Was all good. We then headed back to camp and had late lunch and also had some fun on the river. After the mud photo's: The next day we headed up and tried out the perpose built 4WD track. With dirt drag strip! Any guess whose car won on that? Hmmm, I wonder what happened there.... ahhahahahahaha, silly huge cars. The 88 wagon blow it's other spring purch and it needed to be fixed up again. So we headed back to camp to do that and ended up only going out and playing in the dunes a bit more until dinner. All in all it was a great week. Hopefully I'll get some video up here soon, but for now check out my mates footage on youtube. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X8obCF1Usm4 And heres a photo to finish with..

Looks like you climbed some pretty steep hills without just hoonin it. Very nice buggy indeed. Wish I could have some snow here....

If I was going to go to that much trouble I'd probably look into custom longer travel shocks first. I know it can be done as I know someone who done it, but I'm not sure how. Something about removing the inners of the original shock and adding insert type new shocks in the old casing.. Just a thought.

Clean it up as much as possible and then put lots of RTV silicone around the place... Or is it leaking between the shaft and plate? For an average joe, it's worth getting another box instead of spliting the case, even slightly, as you'll have a heck of ajob getting it to seal again.

Just had to post these two pictures for no particular reason. The first day I got her home. The first car I ever bought. The potential was high indeed. And a little while back now, but the car looks basiclly the same.

yeah see.. We don't get XT6's here in Australia. I haven't even heard of an imported one.. So I would start on a XT4 base.

Was an XT6, or XT4?

Me nither, although it has happened a couple of times by accident. Looks like a nice place for some sand races... Big open and smooth.

Your getting damn good at body work eh? Very nice.

What about the front driveshafts? Maybe setup something like nissan did in the GTR and have sump mounted diff? In my mind theres no point to a RWD subie.

You know the big actuator? The thing that has the cable attached to it that pulls the lever on the trans? Pull your vacuum hose from the solenoid (one that goes from the solenoid to the manifold) and put it on the 'back' side of the actuator I think, or is it the front? Anyway, just put it on the side that disengauges 4WD.

The tires say 205/70R15's...

When installing the new bolts with the lift kit use some anti seize or something on them... Nothing worse then trying to take out a bolt later on and it shearing on you.

How many, and what brand/type, thermostats have you tried? Sometimes, just sometimes, they get stuck in the closed position and won't let coolent through no matter what. I would suggest flushing the radiator and replacing the tstat with a new one with the appropriate temp rating, sorry, dunno what that is. I'm not one of those people only buy OE. I have had minimal troubles with aftermarket stuff in the past and it is like a bazillion dollars cheaper. But if you like OE, go for it.

Yeah, I have thought about something like this. I was told silicone spray works great, but it also costs a lot. I do need to finish my undercoating. I've only done the wheel arches. Those sealed bearings are good then eh? I'll have to look into them when I replace my front right bearing (making noises at the moment.) I've only ever once been through water that got above the diff. And when I went to change it, well, it looked fine. Here in Australia it is hard to find crossable water that is deeper then a couple of inches... And things are only getting drier.

That's really weird.. I just went out and jacked out both sides of the rear of the car to take the lift blocks out (which didn't happen, too rusted in there and i didn't want ot shear one off so it looks like I'll keep the lift) and from sitting on the ground and being almost no positive camber, you can just see it a little, to fully jacked off the ground the difference was HUGE. As in, just say 1 degree positive camber with the adjuster bolt up full, let the arms go down 3" and there is about 4 or 5 degrees positive camber. Anyway, I just set the adjuster bolt down a little and I'll see how I like it. Can't tell a difference in stiffness from bouncing on it. But I'm pretty sure there should be no difference at all.. I have a photo of the rear's camber on my brothers phone, I'll try and get it. This is exactly what I thought. And upon closer inspection it's pretty obvious how it won't stay at 0 degrees throughout the travle.

What's your pre and post preparation for 4 wheeling? I mean things that keep your car going, not tools and recovery gear. I have had afew issues offroading lately. Like I took a trip out and found some water, after a few more days the bearings in my front hubs and in my brothers front hubs were coated with muddy grease. And my recent trip was outback and as some may know the salinity (salt amount) in the dirt in Australia is CRAZY high. I was pressure cleaning the underneth of my car and I could taste salt from the spray off and every bear piece of metal was rusted.. It looked like my car sat at the beach for a week, and it was only 2 days off 4 wheeling. So what do you do to keep your car running nice?

I've taken all the bolts out and put them back in with no problems before. But that doesn't mean it will always work like that.. I'd say you'd be alright if you just removed 1 bolt and put it back in soon after.

That's what I would of thought. Maybe I misunderstood someone when they said clocking the torsion bar makes it stiffer. Really, my main question was, how much hight to you gain when you clock the torsion bar 1 notch. And it sounds like around 2" is the answer.. Thanks everyone.

I've seen two worn out propshafts from subies in onyl 2 years of working with them. one 1 piece one and one 2 piece one. And seems my new 2 piece shaft has smaller joints I likw the idea of giving it the easiest of time possible. I'm still having trouble understanding how it would make the torsion bar stiffer. After all, it still has the same weight so the bar shouldn't twist anymore then it was originally. I do trust that when the people have done it and say it's stiff that it is stiffer. I just don't understand why, and I don't like not understanding.... My car flexs pretty good how it is right now, 2" all round with full hight on the rear torsion bar. But it looks a little weird now with the rear so high and the front so low because of the extra weight form the EJ on the front springs. I do like the less angle on the front shafts now so I don't just want ot lift the front springs more. What I wanted was to lower the rear but without lowering my ground clearence. But liek you said zaper, not much point having so much clearence under the rear diff if the sump and exhaust sits so low anyhow. I might just adjsut the torsion bar bolt. I had a good look at the rear suspension under the car in the pit and I couldn't see any adjustment without cutting, drilling and or welding. Anyone want to point out with a pic where the camber adjustment is possible?

I would think SPFI would be a much cheaper option. But the power of an EJ is much better too. Remember, some people like more standard equipment. And theres nothing wrong with that.

And you know when they start closing parks they want to close them all... I don't think I can legitly sign it though....

Not great pictures of it but... Open deck looks like See the top of the block around the piston sleeving? See how it's "open"? Closed deck See how it's all "closed" in? Closed it stronger because it doesn't let the sleeve and piston move around as much. Under high power open can not be friendly

Ok.. Haven't thought of looking harder for adjustments. I jusyt thought they were made to not be adjusted. I'll have a look later when I fix my front suspension up (again, mycamber adjusters aren't happy, need some more work.) If I can set the camber right then I reckon I will remove the rear lift blocks and clock the torsion bar. That way I get best clearence, best tire wear and best prop wear. Although my axles will hate me, but they can take it.. Cheers guys.