Phizinza

I was thinking, hey I want to do that looking at the title of this thread, then realised it's one of mine from my younger self....... What do they say? HOLY OLD THREAD BATMAN!!! I have thought on this more jsut this year and I reckon I would use full WRX suspension and trans. As for finding an XT6 in Australia...

Its amazing because the suspension geometry is completey different but they are the same.

I think reinforcing is just over doing it. It is a good idea to grind the back of the hub where the new studs go in so they sit flat and then weld the studs in. I have a feeling welding more metal on will run the risk of unbalancing them and or softening them from the heat of the weld... I have never heard of one fail after being converted. Although Jibs (your related to him right?) had his new studs strip on him or something like that, but I used old studs from other hubs and they are fine. Oh, but one of my new wheel nuts stripped ( they are cheapies.)

I have had this problem a few times now. I found the only way I could install a cable in my brothers wagon was when the gearbox was out of the car. Getting the right angle is a PITA! With my 5 speed conversion I had to cut the non threaded part off the gearbox side too, and it did work, but took ages (40mins or so) to get it to go in. And I was in a pit under the car, not crawling around under it... All I can give you as advice is keep trying.. :-\

Just remember a EA82t won't just bolt in and run. You will need the loom and ECU from the EA82t car and you will maybe need to trim it up a little and also fit the turbo exhaust system. Like a lot ofpeople say, it is easier to buy a turbo subaru then to turbo a subaru. But some of us don'tt mind hard. Just a little info you might not of known.

A custom manifold with not so sharp angles and a bigger TB with maybe two TB injectors might be something to think about. I was going to setup a totally custom megasquirt system for my EA81 with mazda parts and a SC for some boost, but I've changed my mind and I'm wanting to go down the root of high comp N/A with twin webers and MSD ignition.

Heat may screw your seals... A mate hammered and hammered (with the diff and driveshaft/axle out of the car) for more then 30mins with all sorts of hammers ranging fomr anything upto 7lb. It finally came, but the cup looked very beaten up and the diff had quite a few chips missing. Some times they are just VERY VERY stuck. I soaked one for 3 days and gave up on it.. I just left the cup on the diff and pulled the joint apart.

Can't answer your question but. I know exactly what you mean about the EA81 pulling better. But I'm thinking it's more to do with the car. I hear the EA82 car bodies weight a fair bit more. And the EA81 style normally comes in at 1050kg. I cant see how the SPFI would be timed to run better at higher and not also better at lower though. Doesn't makes sence when they have the ability to program it unlike a carb. There you go, another post by me that sounds like it's helpful and useful but really it just said what you were already thinking....

You'll see a lot of guys on here running that type of wheel. Turbone comes to mind with his hatch. I think maybe ask something more like "will these 6 lug rims screw my bearings up" will get you more responses. And if you can get a picture of them, ethat would ne 100% better

On my mates 88 wagon (australia, so might be different) the AC fan is only connected to the AC unit and will only come up when the AC is on. He wired it up to always run, but without the clutch fan with a single row radiator it over heats a little. I suggest get a double row radiator and a proper relay circuit for the single fan and it should cool enough. I never had a problem with my EA81 with that setup.

Depends on the lift used. On a basic look at it... Unbolt the rear torsion bar, gearbox crossmember, engine crossmember and raise the car up, fit blocks in with new bolts. Unbolt the front struts at the top and install strut lift blocks and rebolt. Un bolt the steering uni joint and install steering extension. Maybe radiator pipes need replacing with different ones. maybe brake line extensions need installing. Maybe shifter and 4WD shifter brackets need modifiying, replacing with ones that come with the kit? I'm sure I've missed a bit. But thats all the big stuff.

Hahaha...

I've said it before in another thread but I'll say it again. In 4WD shops (in Australia at least) you can buy 4WD fender flairing rubber. It comes in strips and uses a wire inside the outter edge to hold it on a good curve. Might be a good idea to check it out. Although here it cost about $150 to do a car, which is way over priced I thinks.

Yeah, I'm running on air adjustible shocks in the rear that look like they have 3 or 4 inches more movement then originals. At the moment my rear camber is screwed up... It's positive. The way my brother measured it was in his garuage with a builders square on the floor and then measured the difference in distance from the top of the wheel and the bottom of the wheel. My left side was a 4mm difference and my right side was a 9mm difference... Pretty screwed up. But I guess it is 18 years old now and it gets a hell of a thrashing every so offen. I'll get a confirmation that the torsion bar won't change camber angles and then I'll decide what to do. So, anyone else have experience with this? Every subie seems to be different.

It's good to have people willing to spend a little time and help out. Over on AUSubaru I read a post about someone wanted such a write up and most people said, who would do it, there would be nothing in it for them.. That's why I hand out here. I now have to work on that IAC a bit more, and then rear, side and under facing lightage. I was also thinking about fixing up my original headlights. Doesn't Hella make a replacment for the quad lights? I'll have to ask that in the Old gen forum..

I'm not sure if I am correct on this one but... I've seen a Brumby with the torsion bar set how I was saying and you could see the positive camber on the wheels. It looked pretty bad. Plus on a mates 88 wagon we put 4" strut lift in with only a 2" lift and he was getting pretty bad looking positive camber. :-\ Because it sets the sitting position lower on the shocker, thus giving it less room to move down. If I remove the 2" lift blocks and then try to gain another inch of lift with the torsion bar the shockers would be like that. Unless I kept the shock extensions, which if I remember correctly on my car I have to because the shocks mount differently and the extensions are more like adapters. I still don't seem to grasp why changing the ride hight of the torsion bar would stiffen or soften the ride. I'm going to go research springs next to find out why they do what they do when you do what you do to them. That was an interesting sentence.

Well lucky for me I had a few VERY helpful friends on this board Cheers a billion.

I've been driving a lot now and the surge tank doesn't seem to be a need for my car. I ran it pretty low and have had no problems. My fuel starve problem was my IAC problem giving the ECU a safe mode setting where it cuts fuel at a particaular throttle position vs RPM.

On my EA81 I had a dual row radiator and 1 standard electric fan with no clutch fan. It only ever over heated a bit when the cap went bad. So, a stock EA81 fan might be a good start. I think it should fit in fine too. I'm guessing you don't have AC and that's why you don't have an electric fan. You could do something like I done with the AC front mount fans from a different car bolted to the front of your radiator. http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ej22swap_mazda_airconfan_stock.jpg http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ej22swap_mazda_airconfan_fitted.jpg

The way I knew it was. EA81 carbed: 9.0 EA81 dual carbed: 9.5 EA81 turbo: 7.7? EA82 carbed 85, 87 and on: 9.0 EA82 carbed 86: 8.something EA82 turbo: 7.7 EA82 SPFI: 9.5 I'll have to look in my manual. EDIT: my US service manual does say 8.7 to 1 for the EA81. Interesting. I'll have to go out the the shed to check my Austrailan manual. Ok.. My Australian Gregory's Service manual has this. EA71: 9.0 EA81 79-80: 8.7 EA81 81-87: 9.2 EA82 85, 87 and on: 9.0 EA82 86: 8.7 This is carbed models only. I guess it changed a fair bit around the world.

Is the solenoid broken or the actuator? In other words, little black thing with wires and pipes going into it, or big round metal thing with two pipes? I'm not sure which way round the 4WD lever on the box goes for engauged or disengauged but.. What you can do is attach the vacuum pipe from the manifold (normally goes to the solenoid) to the right side of the actuator and this will pull it off all the time. If you don't follow what I mean.. :-\ I'll have to explain it with pictures.

Carbed EA81's and EA82's use the same pistons I am pretty sure. Except in 86 I think, the EA82 used the 8.7 to 1?

I just added up my time log and it comes to about 110 man hours. That includes building the box, all custom parts to fix the engine and box, exhaust mods, radiator fans, fuel system, loom removal, cut down, install, etc. I reckon about 3 times that in research and part sourcing starting from May last year. Maybe I shouldn't of logged it.. that is a lot of time.

Hmm, I would gain more positive camber on the rear doing this. I would also loose down travel. But I gain ground clearnce. At the moment my rear axles only have about 1.5" drop to the hub. So I reckon they could take more angle. As for the spring. Surely because the spring rate is the same in both positions, and the weight of the car is the same, the spring would stay the same stiffness? Turning the adjuster bolt on the torsion bar in theory should only change the ride hight as the spring is still twisted that same amount. So clocking the torsion bar should just bring the arm and hub down and further forward but the torsion bars stay the same rate. Or am I completely wrong? I have another idea, but it costs a fair bit more. Make 3" lift blocks for the front, change the steering lift, buy new lift bolts, and have a 3-2 lift. I like the angle on my front shafts now as I did go through 2 shafts in 2 years the way I had it before. So I don't just want to adjust the front springs.

When you clock your torsion bar 1 notch how much lift do you gain? I have a 2" lift all round but with the more weight on the front from the EJ I find the rear sits to high. And instead of adjusting the torsion bar I thought I may be able to get more room under my diff by removing the rear 2" lift and clocking the torsion bar to get an extra 1" so I loose 1" of wheel to fender hight on the rear to even up the car.