Phizinza

I'm pretty sure that only happened in NZ, some places in europe and the middle east, and maybe japan.. I'm pretty sure every 86 wagon in the US would be an EA82.

MPFI and MPFI turbo both use heads with 2 inlets each. Standard uses 1 inlet only on each head. This means standard manifold wont fit on turbo heads. And it is way too much work to wire up MPFI, you may as well drop a legacy motor in.

89 Subaru Brumby EJ22 with foam filter and 2" cat back straight through exhaust. EJ D/R box fitted with FT4WD RX center diff lock and 1.59 to 1 low ratio. 27" Kumho mud terrains on Nissan 14" wheels. Re-drilled hubs for 6 stud pattern. Custom front a arms and radius rods for proper suspension angles along with camber adjuster kit. 2" front and rear body lift. Bullbar and 3" SS "sports bar". Coupe dashboard with tacho and custom PDA and gauge holder in place of radio. 6.5" speakers mounted in the doors, amp mounted in the dash board. Few more bits here and there... 2005 picture April 2007 picture - CLICK TO ENLARGE - 960 by 1280 res

How wide are the rims? This is the second most important bit of info after the offset, or backspacing. If they really are 4" negative offset they will kill your bearings pretty fast I would assume. If they are 7" wide with 4" back spacing, means they would have a 75mm offset (pretty normal yota size I think.) They would stick out of the fenders about 2". Maye not to good on the bearings

4" offset?? Offset is the distance from the center of the wheel to the plate that goes on the hub. A 4" offset rim (guess it would be negative offset, which means the rm sticks outwards a lot) would have to be at least 8" wide... Do you mean back spacing? a 7" rim with 4" back spacing would have a 12mm positive offset. My 6" rims have a 23mm offset and they work great, just inside the fenders..

XT4's weather they are turbo or not only have 1 exhaust port each side. So they wouldn't work. Not sure about any others. But I doubt it. What do you want to do? Bigger? Custom isn't hard to make/get made for these flat engines.

I've thought about putting the VW Golf TDi engine in a Brat. I reckon it would be possible. But the work involved would be too much. Like they say with putting a turbo in a Subaru, it's easier to buy a turbo'd subaru. Still, major things you would need to do are custom radiator(s.) Engine to gearbox adapter. Fuel system. Massive engine crossmember modding. And you would probably have to mount the engine on a fair angle to fit it under the hood.

Does the SPFI use a different manifold? I thought it had a different bolt pattern for the TB. Getting a computer to read the two TB's and run both injectors would be interesting I would think...

Am I blind or something?

With offroading I consider thrashing when you start spitting rocks all around and get wheel hop. But that's just what I think, if you don't consider that thrashing, good for you and enjoy. Please, I don't want to argue. I'd just like to agree to disagree.. Thank you.

Glad to see you got them after all dave. They look good.

Looks like he done a real sweet job on your truck.

I'm pretty sure it's just the 4WD and low range shifter linkage that needs to be put in.. The car prolly has the mount points for it already.. But I don't know.

For the love of gearing, don't get any tire bigger then 28"....

http://www.ozified.com and http://www.sjrlift.com Are the popular kits. You should find the info you need on there websites. BTW FYI a 84 wagon has the EA81, and is the same body shape as the Brat. I'm pretty sure a kit for a Brat fits right into a EA81 wagon too. Although the steering extension for P/S is different to manual steer.

I've heard heaps of good about the BFG's.. But I have no experience with either. With my next set of tires I'm aiming for 235 wide, that's the highest you can fit on 6" wide rims. And in my world, wider is better.

Subes will do a lot if your willing to thrash them.. like i am.

Well, back from my holiday. 4days of car eating driving.. And it all seems fine. I am yet to wash and get under the car to have a look but the only rattles and clonks are coming from my new 2 piece prop and the mud in the wheels.. The steering is feeling nice and sturdy still.. Pictures of the trip and some video later...

I've just got to this while I'm at a friends house about to leave for a offroad trip for the week, so if I don't reply to any other questions you'll know why. It sounds like maybe it's a detent spring not doing it's job, but it could be plenty of other things too. The "detent" spring pushes a ball bearing into a notch in the shift fork to prevent it from just sliding back out of gear (in this case, out of 4wd into fwd.) These are normally held in the case by a screw with a square nut on the end, but some of them are also internal, I don't remember off hand where the PT4WD 4WD selector forks detent is. But it would be near the top of the rear section of the case. Try looking around where the 4WD sensor switch is. If you do find it, and pull it, watch out because the spring sometimes like to pop out and hide in dark places where you won't be able to find them To get to the internal shifter, you will have to drop the trans, well, to some degree anyhow. You might be able to unbolt the exhuast and gearbox crossmember and then lower it down on a jack or something. Just watch those engine mounts and make sure you don't rip them. This may give access to the top of the box where you'll find a flat steel plate, under there is the shift fork. And a couple of rods to transfer the shift from the lever to the 4wd fork to the low range. Oh, and brings something else to mind, the detent and sensor switch are in the rear casing as well, so if you find one detent it may be the low range and not the 4wd. If you do have a bent shift fork or something in there is bent, you will have to remove the casing I'd bet to fix it. You should be able to do this under the car.... Remove all the bolts around the casing that attach the rear part to the front two halves. Then remove all the gear lever linkages, low range on the front, 4wd on the back, gear selector on the side. And then you *should* beable to pull the rear casing off. It will be tight as there is 2 or three bearings that push into the casing that are very close to interference fit. Good luck mate,

I'm going on a 4 day offroad trip to an adventure park tomorrow, which is about 300km away from me.. So after that I'll give another update. With lots of pictures

I would say it would cost as much and be as much work to rebuild a EA with higher comp pistons, delta cams, good down draft weber, much better exhaust, figure out AWD, blah blah blah, then it would to put a EJ in the car... I'm not saying the EA is a loss, infact I'm going to be building a "high performance" EA81 soonish. I'm just saying that it's cheaper, and almost easier to put a EJ in then get good power from an EA. BUT... If he wants an EA, how about we just shut up about EJ's and tell him whats possible. Obviously he knows by now the EJ will give more power and it's pretty cheap. But he still seems like he wants and EA, so lets just give EA ideas... At the moment, with my EA build I'm trying to figure out how to get more compression then 9.5 to 1. Looks like the pistons need to be domed and maybe have valve cut outs. Although really, is it likely that a EA81 is going to fail in a way that will damage the valves?? I don't think so.. The other option there is to get a custom crank to give more through and then shorter pistons so they don't go up as far. This keeps the same amount of area at full stroke as the old setup only it will have more air and fuel in their because the camber is bigger when the piston is at the bottom of it's stroke. My next step is twin webers. I've been customing a manifold to work as indipendent manifolds for each carb. I'll have to work on that more before I bother saying anymore as I might just scrap it and go fully custom. Then theres the flywheel.. This just depends how you like your power. For my project I'm going to be using this engine in a very light car, so a light flywheel is going to be my pick. Probably as light as I can get it safly. We'll see.. Of cause then theres the extractors, tuned y-pipe, I really don't know much about that yet, so I'll have to do my research on that one later on. Oh, a good port and polish will be in order too for my project. The Dual carb engine I have already has the "sporty cam" and it has better (same as an EA82) flow in the heads. So I don't think I'll worry about a cam grind. Basicly with my project I would like 140hp with the ability to rev upto 10K RPM. Which I know is possible in these engine because some of the plane guys use that kinda RPM to take off... Anyway, that's just some of my rambling on.

I didn't wire mine up and it doesn't give a code for it.. Maybe that's something the auto ECU's had? Is there even a difference aut ovs manual with the ECU? I think I just have to clean my IAC again.. We'll see. It's not bothering me much anymore. I figured out how to get it to throw the IAC code 24. This seems to work everytime. Head down a steep hill in 4th, put it into 3rd and the light comes on. Then to get rid of it, as I'm coming to a intersection and I put it in 2nd from 3rd and the light goes out.. Confusing the hell out of me.. I mean, what makes it do that?? Weird. It still only shows code 24 when I read the ECU and the light goes on and off. I thought if it had a code in there the light would always be on, maybe I'm mistaken?

Those RAM engines have a use, but it's not what you want it for.

Yeah, I thought maybe the outside trim was that smaller sort which I'm not sure if it can take the 87 or not.. I really have no idea, I'm a ea81 guy!

Just thought I'd give a picture of what it looks like under my hood now, I'm hoping that's about all I do under there for a while now. http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ej22swap_enginebay_14-4-07.jpg CEL light wired in on the fan blower box. At night, when it comes on the foot well lights up green, but the light doesn't bother me because it isn't shinning in my eyes http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ej22swap_wiring_cel.jpg General picture of the interior on the beast as it is right now. http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/subarubrumby_interior_14-4-07.jpg Subaru Liberty D/R cable lever, start button, diff lock switch, etc. Close up of my start button. http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/subarubrumby_pushbuttonstart.jpg I've been thinking of a name for her... I was thinking Elishus, as in delishus, beautylishus, etc.. I also had a thought maybe Phizelishus? But I'm liking Elishus. I've never really had a name for her. a couple of months after I got her I thought of Slush Puppy. Cos I was driving through some deep slush and she loved it. That was right after I got the M/T's.. But it's not a very good name. What do ya think of the new name?