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Phizinza

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Everything posted by Phizinza

  1. Isn't the trim on the 86 different to the 87?
  2. Just an update on things.. The bolts on my camber adjusters (the bolt that holds the a arm on) came loose twice, the second time it almost even came out.. Not fun. That second time I wasn't sure what it was. What it would do is my steering wheel was pointing to the right on a straight. Then go around a corner and it's pointing straight. Then I would feel a bit of a thump and the steering was off to the right. My brother told me to check all the bolts on the steering ans suspension. And sure enough it was loose again. So I'm going to either put a double lock nut setup on it or a spring wash like I should of in the beggining.. I just thought I'd let you know how it's been going.. Seems more peopel are worried about safty on these kind of mods. You just have to do it right the first time. I hope all my stupid experience will help people do similar things properly the first time..
  3. I can't believe no one, INCLUDING ME, didn't think of this.... The uni joint on the steering collum was screwed. ahah... All fixed now
  4. Nice to see some knowledge sharing.. I've just been reading on an Australian Subaru forum and no one wants to give away their experience it seems.. I love this forum.
  5. The heads have the valves arranged more like EA82's (look at some of the previous posts and you'll see what I'm talking about.) Becuase of this, the cam has a completely different arrangment.. So you need the cam. I'm 99% sure you can put the cam in a standard block, my dualy's engine number is from around the late 80's and I'm pretty sure dualies wern't made after the early 80's... The dual carbs cam also uses solid lifters, so you might need to do something to your hydro lifter block. I'm pretty sure all you need is: Heads, Intake manifold, Exhaust manifold (or modded exhaust,) Cam. Or, you can just bolt the dual carb manifold onto a standard EA81. I've heard it is a good improvement. As for the question in the subject line of this post: They are different flanges to all other Subarus. The bolt spacing is wider. They need something made up, pretty easier really. 1.75" from heads to a 2 to 2.5" straight through will be enough..
  6. SU-BA-RU... You think he needs an EJ conversion??
  7. Some more updates: My propshaft (tailshaft, some may know it as) was on it's way out when I put it in the car (5sp conversion needed a 2 piece prop.) So it was squeeking away at me.. Then it stopped one day, and then started to vibrate. Then it shuddered mostly on deceleration. Then it was just shuddering everywhere.. So I thought I'd grab a 'new' one from the wreckers. When I took mine out, it looked like this. http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/propshaft_grenade1.jpg http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/propshaft_grenade2.jpg It has about 5mm movment in that hole.. I'm amazed it was still working like that... I had some fuel pump issues as well. The hose I used for the inlet side of the pump wasn't fuel hose and it was leaking, along with the gas fittings (I used silicon instead of thread tape and that fix it.) And after I replaced the hose the pump was making an horrid sound. I thought it was the pipe being kinked and had killed the pump, but after my brother pulled it off for me (I couldn't because I had a cyst removed from my ear so I couldn't look around very well or get under the car) we found it was just a silicone ring that must of been inside the tank that got to the pump... This is after I bought two more pumps from the wreckers cos I thought I'd need to replace it.. So now I have 2 spare pumps and all up the three have only cost me $60, so thats pretty sweet, I should be set for a little while now, and I can keep a spare in the car all the time. Oh, and heres the new pump mount setup... http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ej22swap_fuel_lines7.jpg The radiator I finally got modded to fit better, no more rubbing hoses. Not much to say, since I got it done at a shop.. But the pictures tell you everything you need to know. http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ea81_radiator_modified_tophose.jpg http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ea81_radiator_modified_bottomhose.jpg http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ea81_radiator_modified.jpg Stupid me forgot to (after telling myself at least 6 times to) take photo's of the original radiator and crazy thermostat housings that I bolted together to get the pipe to fit the EA81 radiator to EJ engine... It was a mess and it also rubbed the pod filter and the timing belt cover.. But this new setup worked good.. And the pipes are just cut from one pipe to fit a Bits-r-missin. Thats about it.. Still having problems with the IAC, but I think another good clean might fix that up.. We'll see.. I'm going offroadin with a bunch of friends next week so I'll have plenty of photo's for you forumers then. Till then, enjoy yourselves. I know I will
  8. If you want to do an EJ swap make sure you get all the loom that is needed (engine to ecu basically) and the ECU with the engine.. If you get anything 95 or newer it will be OBDII, which makes it mo interesting to cut down the loom I hear. If the EJ is a DOHC I believe it won't fit between the cars chassis rails. Also you might not want more then a 2.2 N/A in a Fwd car.. Just a thought, I guess you can alway be light footed... You would also need to do something about you radiator (you'll find plenty of info on that here if you look.) And you'll need the adapter plate and re-drill the flywheel. Or with must more effort you can fit the AWD trans from an EM and the 4WD models rear end from a car like yours. Along with custom gearbox mounts and crossmembers and have AWD with no adapter plate and any EJ clutch.. Depends how much work you are willing to do. Just a N/A EJ20 woulf have more guts then your EA82t I would think..
  9. Custom cars just have something about them huh? I can respect a Subie with an 8" lift and second t-case, but I can't respect a huge SUV with suspension lift and mudders, even if the SUV can go further. It's the personal effort I respect. Thats why people who take their car to a shop to have mods (hoods scoops and huge spoilers) fitted I just laugh at...
  10. Wow.... that is pretty amazing work. But.. Excuse me for a moment.. Why pick such an ugly car to put the brat tray on to start with?? :-p Oh, and those holden and ford utes are just ugly. :-p I see them every day too.. They are WAY to popular in Australia. And most of them that I see have hard tops.. Which makes them more usless then a wagon. Anyway, brilliant work so far mate, looks 'interesting'
  11. What we're saying here is a tire like the 27x8.5R14 Kumho Venture M/T isn't that size at all so looking at measurements means jack all... It reality it measures 26.4x7.75R14.. And that Super Swamper looks more like a 27.5" not 27.. I have found on a lot of tire websites (in Aus at least) these days they give you a OD in mm, which is a much more currect size.. normaly.
  12. You'll need a boss kit for a new steering wheel, keep an eye out on ebay for the type of wheel you want, then get a boss kit to fit your car and the wheels bolt pattern (6 or 5 bolts is the commen sort.) As for seats you are going to have custom up some rails.. But if its a serious project that should be the least of your troubles... Am I just pointing out the obvious? Sometimes I think I'm losing my mind..
  13. The Kumho's only have 7.75" of tread width.. Love those swampers.. Just if they wren't 3 times the price of every other tire in Australia...
  14. I would say that having the nut not done up properly (I forgot the re-torque it before a 900km trip) cause the tappered spline to rattle a bit to much (I just thought it was a wheel bearing going out) then I found it to be loose. And because it is tappered, it had enough back lash to wear out. Remember, keep them tight, and alway after doing a bearing or whatever to re-torque after a short drive.
  15. Doing 2 axles is 2 x more work then 1.. But yes, mechanics generally won't rip you off as much if you get them to do more work. If you get the right tools, breaker bar, 36mm socket, pliers, hammer, 6mm punch, lever, it isn't to hard. Maybe it's one of those things someone needs to make a video of changing to help people out... The hardest and most risky part of doing it is popping the top of the lower ball joint out to pull the strut far enough away from the gearbox.. I always find it easier to pull the top of the ball joint out then the tappered bottom part. The risk is when levering it apart you can damage the boot on the ball joint, so you just need to be really careful with a rounded lever. Hey, if you want to learn to work on your car, doing it is the best way. And in the end you save lots of money, and feel really good about yourself. Unless it doesn't fix the problem, then you've just waisted money and time.. But that comes with fixing cars.
  16. Oh and.. For putting the gearbox back together... Professionals will probably cringe at this, but. I done all the diff and pinion torquing myself. I used the pinion shims that came with the casing I used (I wasassuming the casing is going more out from factory then the gear sets.) Then when the two halves were back together I set the side diff plates up so the box had as much back lash as another good box I had. Basicly you want the smallest amount of slop, only you still have to be able to feel the slop. And remember, oil in a box will make the slop feel like less, but in reality it wont have less, it will have more. And BTW, the center diff doesn't need tensioning. Its very much a guess work thing when you don't have the tools. My gearbox is fine, except for a small bearing noise which I think is because the Liberty box I used had the noise and I used the Liberty input gear set. So it must have a bad bearing.. Maybe if I pull it apart to fit a LSD one day I'll fix that.
  17. My brother swapped out his right hand knuckle (you know, the part that hods the wheel bearings) and it's all good now. His going to sell the car, so he figured no point in putting new wheel bearings in if old ones work.. His got a new toy now. It's a 84 2.4L diesel 4Runner... So I'm guessing either my hub screwed my brand new lefthand bearing, so my right side is on the way out.. I think I might wait til it makes more then just a grinding noise, then I can do the wheel wobble test to figure out which one it is. I know, driving on worn bearings is unsafe, but I reckon my whole car is unsafe right now...
  18. It may also be the hubs spline has striped? Is it just the right axle that spins? Or both? This may help, I wrote it ages ago now, so I hope it is understandable. http://offroadingsubarus.com/driveshaft_axle_removal.html BTW, the hub is the part the wheel bolts to, the disc brake also bolts to it, and the axles goes through it with a spline and has the big 36mm "axle nut" A striped spline will look a bit worse then my hub's spline looked, check here for pictures http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=592659&postcount=12
  19. I would say with those rims you are going to want to look for the smallest offroad tread tire you can find to fit them.. Then cut the car up. Done forget about gearing.. 27" is ok in my book for EA engines, 28" is ok for EJ's, but I wouldn't go any bigger without a extra transfer case, lower diffs or something like that.
  20. Yes, you can remove the front bearing and clutch spline. But... You might need to take a real good hard look at the syncros on the low range because they do fall apart very easily. And it is a bit hard to put them together.. I tell ya what, when my brothers here I will video me putting the low range syncros together for everyone on here. The 1.2 low range uses different size syncros then the 1.5 (well, at least my Liberty EJ D/R gearbox did on it's 1.2 to 1.) This means you will need the 1.5 gears shift fork and you will also need to removed the gears from both the clutch input shaft and the input gearset shaft. You will also need to take out the low range gears (they sit right behind the ones I pointed to in the picture.) All this stuff is held in with split pins and the like. I might see if I can get some better pictures to describe this. I have not yet ripped open the main casing to my 4sp. So I'm not sure, the problem I see is if the syncros are different, and you need the 4sp shift fork, then it's coming out the wrong side of the box. I have heard on AUSubaru that it cannot be done, but no one could explain why not. They just said it couldn't be done.
  21. Yes, they are syncros. All the Low range gears, and 4WD selector gears in all the subaru gearboxes (well, atleast EA81 and up) use syncros. I use a 1.59 to 1 low ratio in my FT4WD box and I can easily shift from low to high at anytime (even 100kmph.) And in low, my 5th is about the same as high 3rd. But my low 1st is just too low for street use, even with my 27" tyres. I have found it harder to shift the 5sp PT boxes into 4WD then it is the 4sp PT boxes. I have no idea why. Although I do know the selection shift shafts and forks are a lot more complecated in the 4sp then the 5sp (but remember, I'm talking about PT boxes here, so thats a little off topic.)
  22. I have some EA82 manuals in PDF, PM me your email address and I'll send them to you. I'm not sure if they are any good.. I don't work on EA82's. But who knows, they might help.
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