Phizinza

Yummy is the only word that comes to mind...

So you have two sets of center diff's with lockers? Nice score. What is the diff ratios of both the center locker boxes and pinion shafts. See, some of the XT6's came with 3.9 S/R FT4WD boxes I believe.. Now I have a 3.7 FT with the 1.59 low gears, but a 3.9 is about the best setup I can think of.. Sorry if I'm just mubbling non-understandable stuff.. I've just finished for the day on fixing my ute. The pictures you have there.. First one is a D/R FT4WD box with the 1.2 to 1 low. I know this because the pinion shaft is long and holds the center diff. And the gears on the low range aren't different enough in size to get the 1.59to 1.. The picture of the gears just sitting there look like a single range PT box, because the pinion shaft is part if the output gear set and it also has the gear for the selectible 4WD gear.. You want standard L series low gear, D/R FT4WD gear sets, and any casing with the FT4WD rear casing. So I gather you have a FT4WD D/R box that you just pulled apart with the standard 1.2 low gears. A Standard L series box with a S/R FT4WD internals and a Standard S/R L series internals? Is that right?

Yeah, there is a load of bolts on these gearboxes...

Get a Imp, turbo'd or not, they are fun in the dirt.. Rollcage: lots of tube steel and a welder.. ?

Dunno if others had an issue with this. But, when my brother put an EA82 manifold on an EA81 he had to grind about 4mm off part of the top of the block to fit it.. No biggy really. You will also want to use the temp sensor off an EA81. I think the EA82 ones make the gauge read low, but not 100% sure. Webers make all the difference with power, enjoy.

I believe the thread is 8x1.25mm metric. Just for the searches.

I don't see this working very well as the fuel line is a circuit flow, so you'd have a lot of fuel just flowing past and would cause an inaccurate measurement. If you measured after the regulator that takes the 20 odd psi for the injector I would be worried about it messing with the pressure and maybe giving it a pulse or dips in pressure. Still, I could be wrong.. I, myself, just do mileage counts after filling up. Can't get much more accurate then that.

Plus one 4 th3 4il2804t... sorry, got bored.

Yeah, that's what I was thinking. And adding a little power to one side and more to the other and constantly changing this can control how much it is open I guess. Because you wouldn't want it fully open or fully closed. Still no progress, haven't looked at the car for a couple of days now.. I'll update when I have more

Didn't think about that... Cheers,

I'm pretty sure you need to reset your ecu (take the positive battery terminal off for 3mins or so) to clear the codes.. The purge solenoid can either be taken out and replaced with 60 odd Ohm's resistor or you can swap in another one. It sits on top of the motor and has a vacuum pipe from the TB going to the charcol canister. When I got my EJ22 running in my Brat it had codes 22 24 and 35. After fixing code 35 and clearing the ECU code 22 went away as well and has not come back. Still working on that stupid code 24.... I hope that helped a bit.. So go out there and disconnect the power for a bit then come back with the new codes.. Oh, you will also want to take the car for a drive to warm it up as some problems only come up when the car is warm.

Sweet, I was wondering about that for a totaly different idea I have..

I read that they do, and I think they also keep the affect that they do (sometimes it goes into a kind of safemode.) But now I am having the issue where the CEL light goes on and off but the code is always there, even if the light is off. So I'm not sure how much of the info out there is correct.

They are a bit long for a half simple question.. But, sometimes more info is good. I don't have an answer to your question. I noticed the EJ is A LOT smoother then the old EA. I have noticed a mates EA82 got a lot better/smoother power when he fitted the weber. But it also uses a lot more juice now.

Next to the ECU there is 2 connectors. a set of green ones with 1 one only and a set of black ones with 1 wire only. Plug the black ones together, turn the ignition key to on without starting and the CEL light on your dash should flash to give a code. Read this here http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html

That would be my pick too for what dave wants to do.

I'm not sure, but maybe the wires off the light switch is a ground and you wired in positives to it? I really don't remember how they are, so don't take my word on it. Just something to look into.. You checked the fuses obviously, nothing wrong there?

Sounds like quite an exciting time. I gotta get my EJ muddy, but that comes in 2 weeks...

Looks like a nice place to have the switch. Because I'm in australia and all our FT boxes are imports I had to make do with a DPDT rocker switch and some LED's with resistors. http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ft4wd_difflocker_switch2.jpg

EA81's rock... you have my approval!

I have a similar problem... I wear a size 13, and when I have my boots on I just can't drive comfortably. I try to remember to wear my sneekers when I drive. But yes, they are no good in mud. If you look in my Brumby's build up thread you'll see that I modified my throttle pedal, this wasn't to fix the problem you are having, but it was to fit a different pedal in.. But, seeing that will show you how easy it is.. With a left hand drive car I bet you could just get down there and bend it over a bit.. They are pretty soft. I can't bend mine, as it will lose travle into the fender wall.. silly RHD car.

Yes, it is weird how the topics wonder off sometimes, but it's good to see a good friendly chatty community then a "help only, chat deleted" attitude. I'm glad we sorted out your issue.. Now, go have fun!

The IAC doesn't look like a simple solenoid, it's more like a electromagneticly operated tap. Turn the shaft allows more air to bypass the TB. I'm not sure if later version use this same design, but I know most other cars use more of a conventional push pull solenoid.. The IAC on my 89 EJ22 has three wires. middle is 12V from loom, other two go to B44 pin 1 and 2 on the ECU. On the IAC itself the middle pin have 10.2ohms between both the others . This is within specs. The reason I check the voltage on the IAC is because I was told a bad main relay could cause the problems I am having by cutting power to the IAC... I have a mate whos going to lend me his IAC so I can test that.. More on that later.

I think it would be just as hard with an auto as well.. You either need another t-case with 8" lift or some of those disconnecting driveshafts you use in cars that get towed behind campers. Or you could go out and buy a different car.

I'm not 100%, but I'm 99% sure the pinion shaft that runs the front diff is the same shaft that holds the gears. Unlike the AWD and FT4WD boxes where they use a shaft through the middle of the gears shaft for the pinion (because it's AWD, it has to be able to stop share the load through the center diff, not be biased front wheel drive. I hope you understand. I'll have to draw a diagram of this (maybe even animated) one day so people can learn how their PT and FT gearboxes work.. Sorry, Zebisko, simple answer is no.