Phizinza

I've already fix the purge solenoid problem. I used the resistor idea on that one and it went away and hasn't come back.. Are you still trying to say that because I don't have the real deal in there it is affecting the the IAC? Sounds a little weird.. In my other thread the postie reminded me of what he said a while back which was the main relay might be half broken. Apparently it supplys the IAC with 12v's. So I'm going to check that out next. Just need to find another relay. So to put everyone upto speed, I onoly have code 24 now.

Yeah... Sorry, I forgot you said that. I will check that next.. Thanks

I was told that it might of not burnt the ECU, but the wire.. So I was maybe worried that it melted itself and other wires causing these problems.. But really that is a long shot, and I'll only look into that after looking at another IAC and/or ECU. I would really just love to cut the IAC out, I can't see how it can do a important job.. It just auto adjusts idle, and I never had a issue with that on my carby. I'll have to look at what sort of signal/voltage the ECU is expecting from the IAC.

Only thing I'm worried about is melted wires because stupid me hooked the ECU's rad fan controller to the fans.. I have no idea why I didn't think that it would be relayed and the Brat's wouldn't be.. I have made quite a few stupid mistakes with wiring doing this conversion. Oh, I also got my old bash plate to fit with the new EJ sump.. Broke two hammers doing it.. but it fits! And strangely doesn't look to smashed up?! I'll have to get pictures of it, not that it looks much different then stock.

A mate of mine has a 1990 auto, it should have the same part. I might try and borrow it when I next see him. Of cause, I don't want to bugga his up too. Hmm

Hmm.. I'm not into the blue.. But, it's not what I want, it's what you want. Looks good, but I would pick a different color.. Dunno what just yet. I like my red

Are we predicting the end of the world is coming soon?

So... guess what.. Code 24 is back with it's same symptoms. Looked good for a while. Then on a long drive the car almost stooled when I came to a stop and then it started that fuel cut thing under lead foot driving. And now the light comes on and goes out randomly. Not for a second or two, but will come on, and then 5min later go out, then ages later come back on.. What do you reckon I should check next? I'll see if I can find another ECU cheap or borrow one to test if it's that. It could be wiring I guess (crap, I would hate to pull the loom out ) seems it is a little intermittent. It's getting on my nerves now. I don't want to spend a thrid what the whole conversion has cost me on a new stupid IAC valve. What about tricking the computer that it's there and then plugging the hole up and using a good old fasion idle screw only?.

Cleaned the IAC.. looked good for a while. Then on a long drive the car almost stooled when I came to a stop and then it started that fuel cut thing under lead foot driving. And now the light comes on and goes out randomly. Not for a second or two, but will come on, and then 5min later go out, then ages later come back on.. And code 24 is back.

Normal tires on this car are Kumho venture M/T's at 27x8.5... These wre just for fun to see what would need doing to fit 31's, not that I would because I like gearing. In that picture they are rubbing the back, and when turned straight they are touching the front. ahha. 29's would fit no worries I reckon, but not on those rims. The 31's stick out 3" from the gaurds.

A Subaru shop in my local city disagrees as they just put a EG33 in a lowered Brumby.I thought it sounded to good to be true until I saw it. And for the people who don't know, the EG33 is DOHC EDIT: To save this thread from going offtopic, heres a link to the shop's site, but no pics of the 33brumby on there yet. http://members.optusnet.com.au/risingsuncar/rising_sun/Subaru.htm

Still haven't looked at my Bro's wagon, but on mine... The bearing noise is still there, only much less with this new hub. We'll see how it goes. Here some pictures of the hub that came out and the 'new' hub I drilled and put on. And heres a picture for fun.. It kinda fits... It's a 31" 10.5, and I only have a 2" lift and modded control arms.

One of those no brainers by the sounds of it. give us pictures once you got that back down..

Haha, that's a different story of late. DOHC or SOHC? I reckon if I were to do another swap into a old gen subie I'd use the EG33, but that's just cos I'm crazy. I reckon it would fit nicely. Been told it just clears the rails without mods. And with all this radiator work that I still need to do on my conversion I tought, why not just mount it somewhere else. Sorry, yabbing on too much. Will the 25 require any wiring changes?

I have seen people get their standard hubs converted to 4 x 100 and 4 x 114.3. It doesn't look to hard, is completely illegal here, but I can't see how it could be unsafe unless it was ghetto hand drill done. You'd want a machine shop to do it. They would have the right tooling for the job. If you can find an XT6, that is the way to go.. Better brakes as well I think.

Fun.... isn't it

I would be more interested in fitting a non-torsion bar setup in if I were you. But I guess if it can be set at the right hight and you like the spring rate then it should be alright. I've pulled a torsion bar out of my brumby before. Not too pull it apart, but to get that adjuster bolt working again. Wasn't hard at all and I didn't even use the manual. After reading my manual just now it doesn't say whats holding the trailing link to the torsion bar, by the look of it you just have to unbolt the trailing link for the trailing arm and then it pulls out the whole torsion bar. Then you just need to put it back in on a notch clockwise, I tihnk.

Pink slip racing is good if you have a running wreck you don't want :-p

No, he has a push button single range box. Get a manual with loyal wiring diagrams.

Don't bolt a 40kg winch to your car, it's not worth it.. Just get a hand winch, they do a great job. And IIRC you don't have low range in that thing right? Find a D/R box for it. If you keep stock tire size or near, she should have a pretty good low gear for torque.

I have pulled a 5sp D/R trans out of a mates car and one of the diff caps was loose... Yes, loose. It had at least done 10,000km like that, most likely a lot more. Never heard the diff make any noises or anything.. But yes, without them at the right torque the crown wheel, pinion shaft and bearings should eat them selves alive.

Yeah, they look fine. And the camber adjusters are still set in the same place so they haven't moved and screwed up my alignment either.

Here in Australia we got EJ22's with dual range out of the factory. So, you could, if you were willing to pay for a import box. But I think you may be able to do it with just the casing. You may need the input gearset+low range gears as well if you do not plan to use AWD VLSD center and instead use a PT4WD setup or a FT4WD locking diff setup. I gotta go, so I might elaborate on this more later if you don't understand.

So, it's back.. well sort of. In the mornings it's a little stiff in patches and slowly comes good. As in, just now I took it for a drive and it didn't want to steer, got half way down the road and it was happy to go a turn to the right, but then stiff, and didn't want to go to the left. but after it got over the "lump" to the left which was about 90degrees of a turn it got freer. Still think it may be the strut top? I'm thinking the gears on the rack are worn, or haven't got enough grease/oil (?) in patches.

Yeah, Id say fuseable link. Sometimes they look fine but arn't, so you will want to try another. Although normally fuses don't blow unless there is a problem. Might be time for some trouble shooting