Phizinza

basically the hardest part of this race is the desert right? So I reckon you will want to get some custom deep dish rims and fit 12.5 to 15.5 inch tires (even if it does eat wheel bearings.) Wide tires on sand make ALL the difference. Maximum width tire you want to go on a 7" wide rim is 10.5" so a 8.5 to 9.5 inch rim would be good I reckon. You can widen steel rims, I've seem people do it on budget race cars before. But if you can afford pro custom wheels that would be better.

I don't want to be rude... but..... It would help if you read everything you typed and put in full stops and commas where needed before hitting that "post" button. This would help us read what you are typing. Thanks.

In a subie, can you call it rock crawling, or is it more like rock hopping?

Can anyone tell me if they have broken any part on the diff when driving onroad with both axles in and it welded? I used to drive in 4WD with my 4sp with an open rear diff and I found my rear inner cups had opened up slightly and had a bit of play, I'm guessing this would get much worse with it welded.

Hey, could you post a picture from front/side on of the whole car? It looks bloody awesome mate. Should be some fun

So, I took the old hub off my left front, looked at the splines again and they are totally shot, I'll post picture later sometime. Got a spare from the wreck and drilled it for 6 stud. Problem is I siliconed up some oil fittings for a pressure gauge so I can't test the car until tomorrow. I'll get back on how it goes. Bearings are probably screwed, but who knows. We'll see. And on the brothers wagon, he saw that his right DOJ front boot was completely torn in half. And it looks like most of the grease is gone So we'll fix that and if I remember I'll post back how it goes. I always hate searching through posts and never finding the answers and only getting half the info.

I said that? Sorry, my mind has gone everywhere on this project and some of what I said might just be rubbish. The only reasons I think I might of said that is I don't run a antisway bar (took it off and noticed almost no change:-\) or it might be cos I'm using a lift kit, I don't know.. I can't think why the crossmember I made wouldn't work on a normal subie now. Yeah, almost set.. The propshaft has died on me (well it was a dead one to start with but all I had) so I need a new one. And I'm pretty sure the engine is running much better now with no errors (touch wood.) Although I think theres a slight rough idle, but it seems to sit at 900 now.. just a little rough.

I'd probably go for the heavier Legacy or Imp. They have better after market suspension support and better geometry. Plus they start as a 2L EJ or 2.2L EJ.. I'm starting to think go with the imp, this will keep you in the 2L class and it's a little lighter.

I second what numbchux said. Get everything right before you start trying to track down problems.

Isn't that what the black connector does? I've been slack and haven't taken the Brumby for a drive in a couple of days now. So after I reset the ECU I'm not sure if the codes will come up again.. I have to go for a test drive soon I guess. Everything I read so far about the green connector is it does what the black connector does on my car... hmm

My left wheel bearing in my Brat would have less then 1000km on it. Could it of gone bad already because of something like this?

And if your going to the trouble of putting the new fuel lines in, maybe the new tank, cutting the loom in and all that... You may as well put the EJ in while your there, not much more to it.. Turbo's are so over rated.

Depending on how the steering lift was done, it might be easliy swapable. As long as the cars are either both P/S or non-P/S. How big is the lift. I've had no problems with the brake lines with just 2", but 3 to 4 inches may make things different and require new brake lines.

Without that clutch spring your thrust/throwout bearing could always be just touching the pressure plate and cause it to wear out.. 4WD D/R FTW...

Sounds like the little pump that gives a squirt of fuel for that first push on the throttle (what the hell is that thing called, lol ) So when you put your foot down there isn't enough air to pull the required fuel through the jets and if this pump doesn't work you get a very lean mixture. A tear down and clean out some times fixes it, a rebuild should fix it, but I'm with GD, dump it and get something better.

Just a coincidence it happened on both cars at the same time, or can water do this to the CV's, or DOJ's?

My brothers 83 wagon has this noise. It sounds like a wheel bearing. It gets louder when you turn right and goes away when you turn left. And now (for about 300km driving) makes a horrible noise when going straight at 40 to 70 KPH. It started after we went out and played in some deep water and mud. The interesting thing is, my Brat also has this noise now, and I'm worried it's going to get worse the same as my brothers. From the sound we thought it was a left wheel bearing, seems when you turn right it puts more weight on that bearing. But after my brother washed out the bearing, got it so clean that it felt like new, regreased it, and still the sound was there. Then he replaced the left hub with another off a wreck we have. Still the same noise. I used compressed air to blow out the grease in my left bearing, filled it with good new grease and it's still got that noise. So I was thinking... Could it possibly be something else? I also cleaned out my right wheel bearing and still noise. Has anyone else had noises/bearing problems after going through mud and water? My brother said his bearings had dirt colored grease, as in, very dirty looking grease in the bearings. Sounds like the seals don't do a very good job. I'm now looking at the possibility of installing grease nipples into the fron bearings. Which looks very possible.

Pull the IAC off, clean it for about an hour, flush it with wd40 or similar until the shaft turns easy with no lumps to be felt in it. What I guess is happening is the throttle body is set to low of an idle and the IAC can't open because it's clogged up so it can't adjust how much air it lets in to fix the low idle. Good to hear it runs.. Now the hard part of figuring out all the issues it has Good luck mate.

Thanks, I should of guessed it was a grounding switch like most of the other things on the ECU. I hope it was just the wire burning up... And not my ECU lol. I was thinking of running a new wire anyhow. I really am just over complecating this.

So i pulled off the IAC valve and cleaned it with WD40 and kiro. Before I cleaned it I could feel a ever so slight lump or two while turning it. After it was clean it felt smooth. So I put it back on, set the throttle body idle to 600rpm, then used the IAC adjustment to bring it upto 900rpm. This way I figure it won't/shouldn't idle below 600rpm, even if the valve fails again. I have only been on a short test drive and I didn't rev it up but the ECU does that constant flash thing at me (thats error free flashing right?) But without the black CEL connectors plugged in the CEL light is still on. This is confusing me now. I'm going to go back to my info I downloaded to learn what the green connectors do again... Isn't it something like another set of codes? Anyway, the idle is pretty steedy now and the low end power (800 to 1400rpm) is pretty good compared to my EA81.

Use a wild card in the search to fix the 4 letter problem.. As in, GCK* instead of GCK.

I had a Mallory Promaster on the Brat.. Worked great for a Ebay cheapy, but never done anything extra in the way of ponies. It was the model just before they went to internal resistors, forgot what number it was though....

Subarus (or maybe many old cars) seem to end up at the wreckers with new parts fitted.. Kinda sad, but a nice score is always heart warming.

I would post that picture of all the little smily's holding up the sign "worthless without pics blah blah" but I hate it when people post stupid stuff like that which is pointless because it is already obvious.. Oh noes, I've just posted one of those posts...