Phizinza

A mate of mine told me to do this.. I really don't like the idea of things like a radiator fan being controlled by the user (me.) I don't know if it's just me or if everyone is like this and forgets to turn things on when they need to.. I'm bad enough with checking my mirrors, little own my temp gauge. I figured the Brat's loom doesn't have rad fan relay, so I might just wire on in and make the fans run on a different circuit all together. Anyone got a picture for me? Anyone??

Stupid me.. I didn't even think to look at the circuts, I just assumed they would be similar. Well heres what I found in the diagrams. The Brat's fan is operated through the igntion switch, through the fusebox (along with the radio,) through the fan, then the thermoswitch connects it to negative on the battery. The Liberty/Legacy has a relay which the ECU turns on and the fan is wired to that relay. So hopefuly I haven't fried the rad fan controller on the ECU. Does anyone know what sort of current the fan control wire from the ECU is suppose to put out? And more importantly, what polarity is it (negative for positive?) Thanks for reminding me not to be an idiot Legacy777, lol

Keep in mind this varies from country to country. Here in Australia the only models to come with the D/R from 89 to 94 were the Liberty GX (liberty is basicly the same car as the legacy.) But I'm not sure if all the GX's had the D/R. From what I have experienced here, no one knows much about the EJ D/R's as most users are from the US and they never got the EJ D/R box. Best way to check is either by looking under the hood at the gearbox, there is a little lever which is cable operated right next to the clutch lever. Or by looking in the car there will be a secondary gear lever which is connected to the lever on the box. And just so you don't get confused at all. The Auto's don't come in D/R. But the torque converter can do a good enough job. Personally, I would never put a Auto in a car, I would only ever take them out. But that's my opinion, and I'm anti-auto.

Ok, so I know this is for a EJ22 into Brat conversion, but I thought some of you may be able to help me out on this one... I am trying to get the ECU to run my 'new' radiator fans. But when I wire it up to the Brats wiring loom the fans go on slow and then a little while later something electronic inside the car starts to burn. I thought this may be the relay and I was wondering if the Legacy relay is a different type (maybe to support speed changalbe?) So, what do you think is burning? Is the relay different? Where is the relay on the Liberty/Legacy's? And what should be the output of the Radiator control wire when the engine is hot?

Still got that IAC (idle air control valve) problem... I gotta check if my last clean job worked on it, so I'll get back in my other thread later. Also my radiator fans aren't coming on now.. I think the thermo switch in the rad is dead. And I have no idea what this ECU fan control wire is doing. It runs the fans slow and then makes some really bad smell in the cab. It's burning something up Hope it wasn't my ECU

Hell yeahs! I have the CEL light working good now. I need to take a picture of where it is to show you all. I would paint it up all nice but she's a through and through rough offroader. New paint covered in mud looks just like old paint covered in mud But I know what your saying, I was thinking a new paint job all over would give her a bit more prettyness. But then I would be worried about scratches..

Schweeet, I'll wait for your newer version, I'm in no hurry as I have a lot to write for my site and I still need to get my car running... properly.....

Ok then... heres mine. Bought her a couple of years ago. Came with the 2" lift kit and some 14" wheels. She also had a a true EA81dc (dual carb, valves more like the EA82 engine, better flow.) She got some mud terrains 6months after I bought her. These are now on my secondary wheels as I got a set of 6 stud Superlites which you see in the picture above. These are fitted with 215/60R15's which grip great, but horrid on dirt. She got a rollbar and bullbar soon after I got it. The rollbar everyone asks about, its a 3" stainless steel bar. Pretty simple really. I bought it from a wrecker where it was already mounted to another Brat. The bullbar is completely alloy and is good enough to use as a recovery point. There is heaps more I have done including the latest EJ22 conversion along with the "tri-hybrid" gearbox which includes EA82 low range, FT4WD center diff locker, and EJ D/R casing so there is no adapter for it to the engine. I have also done some custom work on the inside including the new low range shifter, custom center console fitted with gauges and a PDA which acts as a mp3 player. It has a radio and amp in the glovebox. UHF and VHF CB radios. 6.5" speakers mounted in boxes in the doors. It sometimes has the sub and amp box mounted behind the drivers seat which has a 12" sub and a 200watt x 2 Fusion amp (my brothers.) The pedal box is even modified to fit the new clutch cable and throttle cable for the 5sp and EJ conversion. Aftermarket 310mm steering wheel. Well, the list goes on. And one picture can't show it all. So if you want to read more check out my website.

Do you have to have a bike licence to ride ATV's on the road? Or just a car licence? Do you even get bike licences over there in the US? Quads (as we call them here in Aus) are already stupidly dangerous. Riding them on the road is practically like praying for death to come to your door. Edit: reply to post below to save off topic post to this thread. I mean motorbike licence. You can ride 50cc and under on your car licence here, but anything bigger requires a whole training cource.

I need a picture of a home done ground out flywheel (as in the EJ to EA conversion type) for my website. And I would also like an email with writen permission to use the picture if you could be bothered. I never done this myself, but I would like people reading my site to know what I am talking about. If you can help me out, that would be awesome. Cheers subie freaks! Also, I know you'll read this Numbchux so I'll just add this. I would like to link to your EJ2EA write up. Where is it at these days? Also would you mind if I hosted it on my site? Then I can just link to it there. I would take it down or update it anytime you wanted. If not, no problem. Cheers mate.

Is there two inlet runners going from your inlet manifold to each head or is their only 1? Also the top of the inlet manifold should say MPFI if it's the dual port design.

I put some cleaner through the IAC, still no better. Car is running pretty sweet now execpt for that idle and fuel cut. Do you reckon the fuel cut may be un related to the idle valve? I guess I need to fix that valve then see how she goes. I just don't want to shell out half what I paid for the engine for a new valve. Or should I say I can't shell out that much.. Time for more research on these vavles.

I have to disagree with Dain. Although the Brat stock will last 9000km of it's "hard" driving I just don't think it would make it with the mods you need to to get to Dakar. I was thinking and I thought if you had enough floatation you wouldn't need ground clearence as much. But the question goes back to the rules again. I reckon fitting some of those 27x11.5R14 ATV tires to some modified 14" rims either they be Legacy or the old 4 stud (convtered to 6 stud.) I think you would get quite a bit further. Plus you won't totally screw up your gearing. If you put 30"s on even the Brat in low range I doubt you'd get through those dunes. You would need a EJ20t, but then you have the problem of it shreading the gearbox. I really think your best bet is to keep between 27" and 29" OD tires with a low range box. Either that be a Legacy low range box, which you might have to import from Australia or NZ, or a EA82 low range box. Then you have to remember two things about these boxes. The EA82 non turbo is 4WD, so it is easier to break the 4WD selecting gears. The Legacy box is AWD. This has a limited slip diff in the middle so it will slip a bit, but it's a fair bit tougher driving 4 wheels because of it. The standard low gear in the Legacy and EA82 turbo boxes are 1.19 to 1 ratio. So you will want to mod in a EA82 non-turbo low gear so you get the 1.59 to 1 ratio. I'm guessing your EA82t has the standard 1.19, I think that's why you didn't feel a big difference. You can see how to mod the low range gear in the retro fitting forum in my post about my Brumby Conversion. Oh, and things not to get.. A EA82 turbo, infact any EA82 (I just don't think they have enough reliability for the toughest auto race on the this planet.) A EJ25 non-turbo (I am pretty sure a lot of these had major head gasket issues.) There are plenty more, but for now you get the idea. I am toren between the EJ body platform and the EA body. In once sence the EA is lighter, but the suspension setup is much weaker. I guess it comes down to how much modding you want/can do.

Code 22 and 35 are gone now. I put that resistor in. And reset the ECU. Now all that remains is code 24. I'll give it a clean out but from what I have read that is just about pointless. Oh well, we'll see.

Thanks Bratman, but after I cleared the codes from the ECU and put a 65ohm resistor in place of the purge solenoid the only code showing now is 24. I'm going to give it a clean, but from what I have read that is just about pointless. Oh well, we'll see.

Ok, so you'd want the biggest EJ that fits in the class. So a 2L non turbo (EJ20) sounds about right. I'd say you'd want a lift kit if the rules permit. This will give you extra room for some huge tires. Remember, when adding to the OD you also are adding to the foot print of the tire. And when in dunes, you want this! Something like a 29" or even 31" tire with 10.5" wide or more is what I reckon you should roll on. I like the idea of the early imp, they would/should be lighter then the Legacy.

Here in Australia both my brothers 83 wagon, my 89 Brat and my dad's 85 wagon all say 175/70R13's are standard.. Might change from country to country. I think the reason you run skinny tires on a 4WD is because you get better traction on loose gravle and mud with skinner tires in such a light vehicle. My Brat with the 215/60R15 road tires is horrible to drive on dirt roads. No traction at all. slides all over the place. And doesn't like to stop. the 185/60R14 road tires were heaps better.

Yeah, I think the minimal amount of the "other" loom you can use to run the engine is the BEST way to go about it. BTW Ian, I gotta get the cluster off a friend because I lent it to him but it wouldn't work in his Lib because it was an auto. So when I get that back I'll check it all out for you. Thanks for the help Bratman and Numbchux, You've pretty much had a 80% roll in helping me build this rig. You are the guys to talk to for helpful friendly advice! ROCK ON

(mods: this should go in New Gen) I'm new to the EJ engines but.. Yes I believe that the crank sensor or cam sensor would stop the spark. But there are also SO many more things that would do the same. I suggest you read your ECU codes. You should have a little light on your dash that says something like Check Engine? Is that on when you turn the ignition on? What you do is near the ECU (or ECM, whatever you want to call it) which is on the passenger side for the US I think under the dashboard you will see 4 plugs, two green that fit together and 2 black that fit together (these are just on the wires that are coming out of the ECU.) Plug the black ones together and then turn your ignition on, the "CEL" (check engine light I think that means) will then blink at you. First long blinks, then short ones. This makes up codes like 11 or 55, or anything in between. So two long blinks followed by six short blinks would be code 26, then there is a pause and it shows the next code. Or if that is the only one it will pause a little longer and then show it again. Once you figured out all the codes, or just the one, then read this page to find out what code it is and what it means. http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html. Then use that knowledge to track down and fix the issue. Hope that helps.

Ok. Cool, so leaving the battery unplugged for a "certain" time clears them. I'll unplug here, then read the codes to see if there are any once it's plugged back in then run the engine and read the codes again. I'll get back about this later, tomorrow maybe.

9.5" wide tires can fit on 6" wide rims, but 10.5" need 7" wide rims. Keep that in mind. 2WD Jap trucks have the best offset for subies, but they are normally only 6" wide. the 4WD jap trucks wheels normally stick out a bit but are also normally 7" wide.

I suggest reading this post, ALL the way through. It is great. http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4919 There really hasn't been any proof that I know of saying the Brat's 4 sp is worse then the Leones 5sp. Although the 4sp has a lesser low range (not by much) and seems to always develop a problem with holding in reverse. Either way I would recommend using the 5sp purely just for the extra gear. Also I would recommend using a EA81 body style because the weight is a fair bit less. EA81 body style is like Brat's 81 to 84 wagons and sedans and hatchbacks. If you can get a hatch, that would be the best. You will want a EJ engine I reckon and most likely a turbo one at that. No of cause you may run the risk of blowing up the gearbox with a turbo EJ, so I'd watch out. The EJ non dual range boxes are pretty good in sand even though they are AWD not 4WD. The thing is, if you have all four wheels on the ground, they will all drive and the VLSD center should hold up great. The EJ dual range boxes are basicly just the Leone EA82 5 sp with a center diff instead of the transfer case (4WD selector gears.) So obviously you need to be aware that you will break stuff and you need spares. And you will need to do a lot of building up to have a good rig for rally. So fitting a EJ and a 5sp into a Brat or something like that shouldn't be too serious of a mod for a serious rally car. Other things you need to remember is rules for such advents. But I am sure you have already looked into that. Good luck, and most important have fun! Oh, and I'll do this so all the others don't need too.. You must post pics of the build.

Ok... I know I know, I should do a search, blah blah blah. But I don't feel in the mood and the other day I spent an hour and a half looking and turned up nothing. I have code 22 and 24 (and 35, but I know why that one is popping up) on my 89' EJ22 in my Brat. So, I heard something about the ECU being able to hold old codes in it and they the ones that show might not be current. How do you clear them? I want to make sure the engine really has the knock sensor and idle valve problem before I start looking into it more. Also I read a lot about people cleaning the idle valve and a lot of people telling people to clean the idle valve. But in NONE of the cases did it help.. So what is this good for? Has it helped anyone on here? If so, tell me! As for the knock sensor, where is that on the engine and what normally goes wrong with them? Thanks for the help people~!

Hey Ian.. I like my tacho cluster and steering wheel. Also I reckon it would be a right ol' pain in the you know what to use the Libs cluster. I didn't want to use the lever and you can apply some great pressure to that locker and I didn't want it to grind and break. The original vacuum switch stuff does an awesome job too. Plus now I have low range AWD, which is fun. Although you have to be on the ball with shifting as it goes through gears so quick. And with the 27" tires its still a pain in the you know what again to take off from the traffic lights, I hate slipping my clutch that much, so low range helps a lot. Yeah, I still have the cluster and switches if you want them, I'll have a look at how much they will cost to post to you (btw, where are you know?) and get back to you. With the cut down loom all you have to wire into the old loom is oil pressure , water temp, tacho, constant power, ignition power, and I also wired in the start wire which goes to the ECU (which isn't needed I am pretty sure.) So when putting the loom in it is SUPER easy I'm just so thrilled that I didn't have to trouble shoot the wiring and it worked first go... Or did it?? Now I have those codes, I am not sure if it's the ECU, loom or the sensors. I didn't read the codes when it was in the liberty, so I'm not sure now. Any idea how to wipe the memory code things from the ECU so it can start again and tell me if those things are really wrong? I think I'll do that before anything else on the quest to find out whats wrong.

RWD and mid engine would be fun... But... I want this short and I want the seating position to be not on the front grill. Plus, AWD is a good ectra for the sacrificing of mid engine.