Phizinza

Cheers Jerry. Ok, so I ran the codes off the ECU and came up with this... 22 Knock sensor craps out the fuel maps it says 24 Air Control Valve, that would explain the idle. And 35, which is the purge solenoid, which I have unplugged as it doesn't work. But the info I have says that won't do anything to the running of the car. So. Could I get some help fixing these? I have no idea where to start. I'm looking into it right now, but I'm at a friends house with limited tools. So we'll see how it goes.

I got a 68.5cm belt and it works great for just the alt.

Thanks Nipper, but I learnt all that after I posted this ages ago (you'll notice it's an old thread.) When I was talking about spinning the rear wheel I was saying the clutch pack must of been disconnecting because when you turn 1 wheel while the other is on the groung it must turn the propshaft and one side of the clutch. This determined that it wasn't a fused clutch pack. I haven't even had a ride in this car so my info is limited. I'll ask him about the flush and the light on the dash. Hes taken it to three places and no one can read the codes for him, one of which was a Subaru dealer.. haha.

More pictures: http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ej22swap_mazda_throttle_cable_underhood.jpg That's under the hood, showing the use of my mazda 626 throttle cable and another return spring. http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ej22swap_mazda_throttle_cable_footpedal.jpg And another picture of the throttle pedal, sorta showing the extra cutting and welding we had to do. http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ej22swap_exhaust_mod.jpg This is the little bit my brother had to do to fit my old 2" exhaust on. One day I'll get a better exhaust setup from the heads to the back of the car. But for now I like the sound of this and it's nice and quiet http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ej22swap_first_test_drive.jpg The beast out of the garage.. This is just after her first test drive http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ej22swap_garage_after_conversion.jpg The mess I left my brother garage in, I have to clean it up on Monday... http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ej22swap_temporary_unifilter_placement.jpg And my new pod filter. I plan on changing it's position some day soon up into the spare wheel well. And I may add a snorkel.. But for now it will work. It sounds pretty awesome when it revs up with that on it I had a feeling about that... I just assumed red was positive again.. That has got me in trouble 4 times now with the wiring.. haha.. I'll go check that light out.

Thanks for the help, but I think it's fixed itself... I took it out a couple of times yesterday and it was fine...

You didn't touch the manifold gaskets did you? Might be the water passage that leads near the carb on the front of the manifold is leaking through. Or maybe the water choke on the weber is some weird intergrated thing and leaking?? now I'm just mubbling.

Not to do with the llift here, but.. Personally I wouldn't go above 28" tires on a any subaru without gearing modifications.. So, my advise is, start with 27's or 28's and see how you like it, if it's ok in your mind, then you may try bigger. Just don't get stuck with huge tires you don't like. I like crawling over things, so that might explain something. Yes, I know subarus can't crawl, but I try!

About this CEL light. I have my red CEL wire out of the loom wired to a 2watt light and then and the other side of the light is earthed. It doesn't light up, so that either means it's not working or theres nothing wrong. But seems I don't have the purge solenoid in at the moment and no resistors in the wires or anything I would lean towards to light not working. I'll see if I can get it to show some codes tommorow moring, now that I know how to do it. But I was wondering, is the wire out of the loom a positive or negative? And is 2 - 5 watts of light too much for this wire?

I didn't see the clutch pack my self, but both my brother and the guy who owns the car say that looked pretty much new.

I found some more ponys in the barn... Or is that horses under the hood? Anyway, when I was trying to find a rough idle problem I found that 1 out of the three plug leads didn't change the engines idle. It did however effect reving. So, we swapped that lead with another plug and it was definitely a problem with the lead. But then I was looking at another one and it had dirty water all over it. So after using the air comp to blow it all clean and dry, we put it all back together, started it up and it was smooth. Took it for a test drive and theres at least 5 more horses, maybe even 10 in the "butt in the seat dyno." But now theres a problem of any driving that isn't straight and down hill it runs rough, I'm pretty sure I really need a surge tank now.. WARNING TO ALL BRAT CONVERTERS: I'm very sure you will need a surge tank, I'm very sure you can't do this mod and keep your 55litre tank without a surge tank. My brother alos warned me that if it's getting that much air it might do damage so I have to go get fuel in the morning... And of cause.. This wouldn't be a conversion if I didn't still have problems. My idle is really weird. When I start the car, it runs at 1600RPM for about 4 seconds or so, then drops to 900RPM. Then, once it's heated up and just before the fans kick in it goes upto 1200RPM and stays. After a 10min drive I pulled up and it was at 900RPM again. And the fans had stopped working properly so the heat was going up a little high.. I play around with the thermoswitch on the radiator and the fans start up. Then 3 seconds later, back up to 1200RPM or so.. What gives?? Oh, and I also got my 150mm x 92mm UniFilter foam filter.. I'll show pics of it tomorrow maybe. Does the US get UniFilters? Good ol' made in Australia

I'm just speaking off the top of my head here but maybe the right side timing belt skipped a tooth? Did it happen all of a sudden? Or has it always been like that since you got it?

Hmm, 40PSI of fuel pouring out into your engine bay on fire would be an interesting sight.. Oh, and make sure you do what I did... http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ej22swap_fire_extinguisher.jpg Does the fuel relay tick when you turn the ignition on?

Yeah, only thing stopping the EJ22 bolting into a Brat is the trans mount and enging mounts. Which both are pretty simple to alter.

Just don't stall your car and leave that switch on for too long. I get the feeling it wouldn't be good for the pump.

Basicly most of the EFI fuel pumps can pump air. But if you let it pump air for too long, say good bye to pumpy.

I bet that's a nice car to drive.. Good pick :cool: Just because Honda made it, and Toyota stole it (or whatever,) that doesn't have to mean Toyota refined it.. Can't both of them refined it.. Can't two or more companies do the same thing and not be accused to being worse with no explanation? It's a great idea, why wouldn't all manufactures try doing things like this? And then try making them better? It only makes sence.

So... It's been awhile. He replaced the solenoid a short time after this thread was started and it was all ok. But now he says it's binding up again, only he says it's doing it randomly. Any ideas? My first guess was one of the 20 odd wires that go to the trans is shorting out/being crushed. He said he looked and fiddled with it for hours and nothing helped.. His taking it to a local Subaru specialist who appears to know their stuff about Autos. So I hope he gets it sorted. But, what do you think? Could the new solenoid really be going bad already? And if so, what would cause that? It was a brand new Subaru part.

Also I've seen a mid mount toyota 2L bolted to a 4sp D/R subie box running 4WD, the front diff was Subaru, but there was a really weird chain and sproket/front hub/axleshaft/propshaft setup that got drive to the front.. I can't find pics of it now But it was really interesting.. I have no idea why they didn't just use a EA or EJ in it, would of made it shorter by a fair bit. It was red, if anyone knows where to get pics of it.

Here is a guy local to me who builds them right out of old rusted subies. http://members.optusnet.com.au/risingsuncar/rising_sun/Buggies.htm His on AUSubaru by the name of steve_rising_sun. He built a EA82t engine to run on LPG with a supercharger and put that in one of the buggies too. He said nothing else could beat it in the sand dunes, until he built a tube buggy from his rolled Bits-r-missin 3L Pajero.

The EJ loom runs the fuel pump for about a second when you turn the igntion on to prime the line. Then it stops, and when you start the car the ECU turns it on while it detects engine rotation (I think..) Although, the fuel pump does not need to be connected to the EJ loom for the engine to run (I had it just constant on in my first start up.) But I highly recommend getting the ECU to power the fuel pump. Because it doesn't like running unless the engine is running, something to do with the pressure regulator running off of vacuum.

Just took the car for another test drive... All is ok now, back to normal.. What the?? One interesting thing though... Yesterday the steering wheel pointed to the left to go straight, now it points to the right. Only by a few degrees, but enough to annoy me. It has been like this for ages though, each day it points a different way. My steering ball joints are fine, but I think maybe the joints in the rack are stuffed. The rack has no dead zone so there doesn't seem to be any play in it. I'm just confused now. I'll just do the bearings and go from there...

Same on my Brumby/Brat.. There is a 8mm, 6.3mm, and 3.2mm .. I don't know what the inch measurement is, so do the conversion.

When I put the EA82 rear springs on my front struts I never remember seeing any bearings in there, and I know I didn't put any bearings back in.. Steering has been for for a year, but now... crapola

What would you suggest to fix that? It's the only one left I have and I live no where near a wrecker. Grease it up?

And for those of you who are going "fake kill switch, how would that help?" It's a discration away from my real one... ... And sorry, but I'm not saying where that is. What I can say however, It's a SPDT swtich and when it's in the "off" position if you turn the ignition on a piezo alarm. I am hoping if anyone looks under the dash to either pull the ignition plug out to hot wire it, or find out why it's just screaming at them they will find the fake switch, switch it and nothing will change, so they will give up... I hope. Or by then maybe someone would of found them. So, more on the temp gauge.. I tested it with the radiator fans plugged into the radiator thermo switch and they come on at the same place on the gauge as they used to. So the EJ temp sensor in my EJ22 (out of a 89 D/R Liberty) is the exact same as my EA81 coupe dash gauge. And the fans seem a fair bit better at cooling then the original EA81 electric fan. I didn't run the clutch fan, only 1 electric. But theres another thing that is puzzling me now. When she was just ideling (warming up to test the radiator fans) her idel would sit constant for a good few minutes, then drop and raise, and just all over the place within 650RPM to 1250RPM. And then it would go back down to 900RPM and sit pretty good. Also she seem to have a stutter if you floor it from idel without load (just sitting there.) I think I noticed this taking effect when I tried a clutch drop start on a gravle road. Could this be caused by air in the fuel line? I'm not sure how much or when the fuel line is pumping air. I'll fill her up with some premium 95oct fuel tomorrow.