Phizinza

Schweet!

Ok. hmm.. Somehow I get the feeling with the back of the diff 2" lower then the front (seems the front is bolted to the crossmember) you will get some interesting propshaft angles. Unless you plan to space the front of the diff mounts down 2" as well. What I would do is install the lift, then look at the angles on the propshaft, if they look too much different then stock, space the carrier bearing. I'm guessing you don't mind your rear wheels really far forward? If it were mine, I'd lift the crossmember 2" too, but that's just me. Good luck with it mate. And of cause, we must have some pics once it's lifted

I reckon this is a great idea to carb the EJ (this coming from someone who just got their EJ to start up on the cut down loom.) I like it when people do new things. Even if these things have been done before, it's still kinda new because not many people have done it.. Ok, so it's not new, but at least it's different. Some people know how to make carbs do what they should. I envy those people.. Well done so far monstaru. Can't wait to see some pics of it on the road, or off the road would be better.

I have no experience in this matter. But... I would of thought the WRX turbo is a bit big for a EA81. There would come a point where you would just be spending more exhaust enegy spooling the turbo then what you would be getting from it. What about one of those smaller TD035 turbos? I would think a small nimble turbo would be a better choice on a EA. But like I said, I have no experience here.

Go out to your car, and look at your tires. How close do they get to the fender? Turn the wheels and look at them. You'll soon figure out how much bigger you can go then what you have. I run 215/60R15's as street tires on my Brat. Bloody horrible on dirt. The car slides all over the place. I wouldn't go above 195 wide street tires now unless you are just after looks, and 185 is probably the best cross for a dirt/road tire. When you start talking offroad tires, then I change my attitude. Because of AT and MT's tread, wider still works good on dirt roads. I would like a 235 wide MT on my Brat, I'm using the 27x8.5R14 Kumho's right now. With rubbing it all depends on your wheel offset. So measure that too before deciding on a tire. You might want to find a tire calculator, just check google for one. Helps with the metric/us tire sizes and figuring out total OD.

This sounds like a fuel filter needs replacing. That happened to me on my car. What happens is the engine can run good at hard throttle for a while with whats in the float chamber, but when the float gets low, and the filter is blocked and slowing flow, the engine then starves for a little while before the float gets back up gain. Not sure if it's related to the backfire though. I know a few EA's that back fire under deceleration, not big back firing, just pops.

I'm no expert, but I don't think it would matter moving it to infront of the turbo. Just as long as it is in front of cat it should be alright. Oh, you might want to a foot or two back from the heads though, just incase the heat messes it up.

I ran a welded diff for a while. It was awesome offroad. But because I used to use 4WD on road a lot it was a hard thing to do. I'm going with FT4WD now so I am planning something different for the rear. You should see what my brother is doing Once his done it, I'll post some pictures. We spent a few hours designing it a while back. As a hint, it's got to do with one of the driveshaft(or what you may know as axles.)

That actually made me laugh.. Good stuff

There was a dual carb manifold from factory for the EA71 (yes, as well as for the EA81) but they are so rare. Sub4 are the only after market guys that make heads for EA81's (BTW, I am pretty sure Sub4 supply Ram engines.) Your better off just getting someone to put a WRX motor in there for the cost of getting good power out of that EA71. The EA82t was the first production Subaru I know of without siamese intake ports. Although the EA81t heads had 2 injectors in them right? So they got around the siamese ports for that one. If you want more power, I'd suggest getting your cam ground for torque or high end, putting a weber on it, and maybe giving it a port/polish. Plus a good 2" to 2.5" straight through exhaust. But really, anything over that and your just having fun building the engine, not trying to gain decent power for your subie.

I have a 2" lifted Brat, but even without the lift I reckon my 215/60R15's would work. I'd say you shouldn't have a problem with 225/60R14's, unless your wheels are less then 6" wide, or your offset is bad. My 15" wheels have a 25mm offset which puts the tires just under the gaurds. Stock 13" subie wheels have a 58mm offset which tucks them in a fair bit and close to the shocker. On the rear I can't imagine you would have a problem. 215/60R15's = 25.5" or there abouts 225/60R14's would be near 24.7"? 225/75R16's would be 29" or there abouts. Stock XT4 13's would be 22.6"

Win the WRC again??

Any idea what models they came out of here? I have never seen split in a Subie wagon. EDIT: what am I going on about... lol, of cause we have split seats. It's just the bottom bit that got me confused... Sorry. Weird the US didn't get the same design..? EDIT: then again, EA81 split seats? I know we got EA82 split seats here, but I haven't seen the EA81 versions... hmm

I don't want to bring this topic back up, but... Am I wrong in saying an Auto does not have a differential? When we say a center LSD (limited slip differential) in a auto works like so, blah blah. I just can't get to grips with it. I can't call it a diff because it is purely just a clutch. So, have I got this all wrong, and the meaning of differential basicly means difference in speed, or difference in torque in cars. Or should a diff be called a diff and a center clutch pack be called a center clutch pack? For some reason, saying a Subaru AWD/FT4WD auto has a center LSD just doesn't sit right with me.

But if you have to sell your car to finance your 5 lug upgrade, that can't be good.. ? :-p

The 80's wagons never came in 4.11 or 4.44. So you would have to use the gearset, pinion shaft, rear casing, center differential, etc out of a AWD car with the ratio you want. Then use the front LSD of your choice with the AWD's crown wheel and install all that into your EA's gearbox casing. Of cause, this gets to a point where because you didn't get AWD EJ dual range transmissions. So using the gearset out of a EJ box in a EA box might be interesting. You would need to make sure 1st through to 4th are the same ratios in both boxes. or you would have to lose the dual range. Just as a note that most people don't know, the pinion gear is part of the pinion shaft and is not interchangable. So if you want another raito, you must change the pinion shaft. And seems the pinionshafts in the 5sp EA box only came in 3.7 and 3.9, that's all you can have in a PT4WD box without changing the PT to FT/AWD. Short answer, possible, but not for the light hearted mechanic.

Everyone here has a point. What mine is simplyfide: FT4WD in a Subaru means center diff with a locking option. AWD in a Subaru means viscous center diff. So in my mind, even though they use similar gearbox designs, they are quite different in operation and should be treated as quite different gearboxes. As for AWD leg spinning one wheel: This is why I built my EJ FT4WD trans. Diff lock rules. The AWD center VLSD really isn't up to offroading IMHO. As for auto's, well you know what I think about that already.

A guy here in Australia makes the adapters to fit EJ suspension, hubs and brakes to the old 4lug cars. But you better think about selling your soul to fund it. Then again, most subie drivers in Australia seem richer then subie drivers in the US. I hear XT6 parts are getting rarer.. So if you want 5 stud, start collecting xt6's now!

Wow... I never knew this. Can anyone shed light on which didn't? My 89 Liberty/Legacy had a VLSD center. I thought they were all VLSD centers in the "new gens." I am glad you have had success with your auto. I haven't driven one offroad, so I guess just seeing how much better my car is then someone elses auto doesn't count as good as your experience. Thanks for your imput. As you may of read, I said "FT4WD and AWD in the Subaru world have differences." But of cause this is all just a point of view on what people refer to as FT4WD. edit: Ok, for interest's sake I thought I'd look on the net for what the general definition of FT4WD is. On Wiki I found that it is refered to as having a center differential and low range. Where the AWD system only has single range and a center differential. I can't seem to find any manufactures notes on what FT4WD is. You could call it a early step to AWD, but then why are there big 4x4's coming out now that have "Full Time 4WD" on them, as in it's a huge step for 4x4 kind. "That's so 1980's"

I like the 14 and 15" pug alloys. But it's hard to beat the choice of 6lug wheels. Plus you get a lot of different offsets to chose from. And face it, 6 lug isn't anymore unsafe then 4 lug if done correctly (with a drill press, not a hand drill like I done on my rear hubs.)

Plan on droping just the back of the diff 2" or the whole swing arm crossmember only 2" as well? I would say drop it the same as the rear swing arm crossmember is. On a mates 2" lifted 88wagon we dropped everything 2", totaly stock geometry, and one of the u-joints went bad. So I wouldn't want to put anymore then stock angle on them. Unless maybe you have grease able ones and enough cash to replace when ever.

If I were to get a custom shift knob, I'd get a brushed alloy sphere. simple, I know, but that's what I like.

FT4WD and AWD in the Subaru world have differences. They are, AWD has center VLSD differential. FT4WD has open center differential. AWD is better, but the FT4WD came with a center locking differential. Which if the like rough terrain, then FT4WD is much better, but that is the only case it is better that I know of. Loyal shaped Subarus never came in "AWD" and Legacy shaped Subarus never came in "FT4WD" although for a while I think they called there AWD system in the Legacy "Full Time 4WD". I just thought I'd come along and confuse you all. EDIT: Oh, then theres Autos... Which are completely different and in my point of view have a very simple AWD/FT4WD. They use a clutch pack in the center (no diff) which engauges when the front wheels slip. I've seen so many videos of all kinds of cars with this system 4WDing and they aren't good at all...

It was two philps head screws on my Brat.I pulled one out of my wrecked wagon and cut it open to make sure it wasn't anything special. I'll try my best at some text art to describe it. ...........................tank vent............. ........_______________||____............ .......|................................|............ .......|...............|................|............ .......|...............|................|............ .......|...............|................|............ .......|...............|................|............ .......|...............|................|............ .......|____|| ___|_____||___|............ .....canister vent - fuel drain back vent.. Mack sense? All the vapour goes into that box, then the liquid splits and goes back into the tank while the vapour goes inthe to canister under the hood, which *should* end up going into your intake via a vacuum hose while your car is running..

Alright.. So after all those questions about wiring and getting my loom ready to my installed into the car here is the first stage I done yesterday. http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ej22swap_wiringloom_install1.jpg http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ej22swap_wiringloom_install2.jpg I pushed it through the left hand side rubber grommet which wasn't in uses (keep in mind that this is a RHD car.. so passenger side for me.) I then mounted the ECU right where the air vent pipe goes stupid me. But I could not find a better place so I made some slight adjustments to the fan air vent pipe. http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ej22swap_ecu_mount.jpg http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ej22swap_wiringloom_ecu_airvent1.jpg http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ej22swap_wiringloom_ecu_airvent2.jpg Then I installed the relays onto the side of the car. http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ej22swap_wiringloom_install4.jpg And after all that I spent another hour trying to fit that bloody fan box back in! That thing is a nightmare... http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ej22swap_wiringloom_install3.jpg Also I found that my EA81dc's oil pressure sender will bolt into the EJ's block.. This means I new fitting on the wire and I'll have my original gauge working! http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ej22swap_oil_pressure_sender.jpg And of cause, I made way for some wires and maybe a overflow bottle by cutting out the jack bracket. I have also mounted my ignitor just above where the bracket once sat, right next to my Liberty/Legacy fuel filter. I'll get a picture of that when I put the engine bay side of the loom in. http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ej22swap_jack_bracket.jpg I also have painted where the jack bracket was black to prevent rust. Still lots more to do. then