Phizinza

There is a fuel/vent separation box in the back of the car, in the right hand gaurd right next to the filler (this is with both wagons and Brats, not sure on others.) This has two vent pipes from the tank that go into the tank right next to each other. One is to vent to the top of the vent box, and the other lets any liquid fuel flow back into the tank. Then from the vent box the thrid goes from that box all the way to the engine bay and into the charcol canister (this pipe passes right by the fuel pump.) I left that alone as I want to be nice on the environment and vent my vapors properly. But what I done was use the tank to top of vent box pipe as a fuel return in conjuncting with the original tiny fuel return line. Not as good as a 8mm line, but a 3mm plus 6mm line should do it. The T piece lets the hose return the fuel to both the original return place and one of the vent places. I am hoping that the vent will work ok using only the drain back pipe in the vent box. Good luck on your first start up!

Hmm, I rought hole torched through may work. I haven't giving that any thought. The bits that are welded to the crossmember will take most of the impacts then. The drill bit didn't leave a nice sight, I had to do a bit of cleaning up with a file afterwards.

Sweet, thanks guys. I'll cut that wire out. I don't like constant fan noise, I prefer it only cooling when at optimal temp. That's why I took my clutch fan off my EA81 ,those clutch fans make the worst noise. I have all the interior wiring in place, just need to hook up the gauges and loom power now. And then tape up some of the hood loom and route it around. I'll have pictures and all that in my other thread within a couple of days.

Ok, cheers, I will leave the neutral switch wire under my dash not connected. One other wire though. Is it important to hook the ECU's radiator control wire to the fan relay, or should I just leave this wire out and use the original thermoswitch and radiator fan relay blah blah blah? I'm putting the cover stuff back on the loom and I just ran out of electrical wire. I'll go get some tomorrow. Then I'll install the loom. I already figured out where I will route it in my RHD Brat.

When putting these gaskets on I use aluminium alfoil about 2 layers thick wraped around the gasket. I only get exhaust leaks when I hit something offroad now. Where I used to get exhaust leaks all the freakin time.

Another stupid thing from the car manufacturing geniuses

On my loom, the two plugs you plug next to the ECU that you plug in to read the codes have a black wit hred wire heading off of them going into the gearbox plug I think which looks like it goes the the neutral switch. There is also the other wire that is the other end of the neutral switch which looks like it heads to pin 10 on what you call plug C. This is orange on my loom, but it isn't suppose to be on the diagram I have. Hey, it's australia, so I expect that. I am going to connect the wires on the two plugs to another black with red wire (which is ground.) But I'm still not sure what to do with the neutral switch (pin-10/orange) wire. My clutch pedal doesn't have a switch on it. Can I just hook it to a switch I can manually switch when wanting to read the codes?

Still, I even with a 5 stud conversion on a Brat, you still have crazy stupid suspension angles. I recommend anyone with a EA81 car to do something like I have. It is soo much better sand drifting and even better with onroad handling.

I haven't looked at that. When I get my Liberty on blocks I'll have look at it's rear setup.The EJ's use the cam bolt design on the lower shocker mouning don't they? Pitty you can't keep the 4 stud and use that design. Oh well, my car's suspension is at the point where I wanted it know. I just hope it doesn't break.

I'm guessing your intake gaskets are shot..

Now this is something that has been missing in my knowledge.. Are the 2WD axles the 3 roller bearing style, and the 4WD axles the 6 ballbearings in the race design? Or what? I know my front axles in my 4WD Brumby/Brat have the 6 ballbearing style and the 89 AWD Liberty/Legacy uses the same design only with 25 spline cups like the FT gearboxes. Basicly, what are the differences between FWD and 4WD axles? Sorry for the slight offtopic.

... I'm 99% sure you cannot fit the R180 center into the R160 casing. is that what you are talking about? I'm all confused now.

Be warned. If you want to do the kinda camber kit I done, drilling a huge hole in the engine crossmember IS a nightmare.. Took my brother and I at least 30mins of drilling and about 2 hours for drinks and catching our breath while the drill cooled down to get all 4 holes. It might be different if you can have the crossmember out and use a drill press...

They look like it, IF you get the longnose R180.Although from what I gather, the driveshafts will not go on, but the propshaft should. So, bolt in? No, although all the bolts should line up, so yes. :-\

Ok. So I'm taking out more unnecessary wiring, mainly the gearbox stuff from the EJ loom. I'm at a bit of a dead end, not sure what to do. I see that the two plugs to make the cell light are on pins 12 and 13 on the second smallest ECU plug. And I see these are related to the neutral sensor on the EJ gearbox. Because I'm running the back half of a FT4WD gearbox I don't have that sensor. Now on the smallest ECU plug there is a wiring in pin 10 that goes directly to the gearbox. This is the ECU's way to tell if it is in neutral. So I am figuring, The CEL light only displays when in neutral. So this pin-10 wiring would need to be connected to earth, but only when you want to read the codes. But my worry is, when shifting gear, does the ECU want to know when you hit neutral. Or does something else need to know that? Would it matter if this neutral wiring was just disconnected until I switch a switch which allows me to read the CEL light. Another thing, is the CEL light normally connect to the reversing lights? Cos there is a wire or two heading from the "memory" or "test" (pin 12 or 13 on the second smallest plug) to the gearbox. Cheers for the help. Only a few more wires to deal with and then the loom goes back in that plasic cover stuff

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=69643 Read page 4 for the camber adjusters I made. These would work on EA82's as well.

This is copied from my Brumby conversion page: Yesterday we worked more on the camber adjusters. I still need to put washers with cut outs in them in between the rubber and the 'cam' (in the 22mm hole I drilled basicly) so the rubber on the control arms don't die. Heres some pictures. http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/...uttingcams.jpg http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/...er_kit_cam.jpg http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/...ding_final.jpg Top one is cutting the discs using a lathe on thread cutting speed and an angle grinder. I would of used a cut off bit in the lathe but the tow ball I used was such hard steel the bit could not take the heat so it was doing more cutting to the bit instead of the ball. The angle grinder worked a treat though! I will expline it in a bit more detail now. Basiclly the cam (round discs with offset holes) can rotate and change the distance the bottom of the hub is sticking out which if it sticks out more it means you get more negative camber. Then when done up tight it acts as a washer and holds the bolt in the set position. Using a 22mm hole in the crossmember means I gain either 6mm inwards or 6mm outwards adjustment. This should allow me to set both wheels at around 1 to 3 degrees negtive camber. My car still needs a wheel alignment... For the radius rods I had to add a sleve through the rubber joints at the gearbox crossmember because the nuts didn't have anything to tighten up on, this cause one nut to come loose... bad thing. The sleves just squeezed in between the rubber and rod, thus allowing the nuts to do up tight on them. Sorry, I forgot how long I cut them. Something like 40mm? hmm They are a little hard to adjust, but I think they will hold so once it's set I shouldn't have to touch it until I change the suspension or something..

So you want a LSD, is that all you want? Or do you want a bigger rear diff as well? I think converting to R200 is going to be hard. I get the feeling it won't fit under the fuel tank unless you get a 4" or bigger lift. Also you have to get a longnose R200, which is going to be hard I think. Then you have axle and driveshaft fitment.. Nissans use completely different rear shaft design. Much much easier to stay with R160, but if it's that much cheaper, then I guess it's worth it. I reckon a longnose R180 with a small amount of lift will fit no worries, but again, shaft issues.

He means just for the USDM. I don't think either of them care where else in the world what year was what.

If it's a R160, then it's a pretty commen diff. (at least it is here in Australia anyhow.) I believe lots of WRX's came with the R160 VLSD..

I'm going to have to look for that wire... I never remembered it! Any idea what pin out it is on the ECU??

Well since my EJ runs in the Brat I have been thinking what to put the EA81dc in. Heres my idea. A 400 - 500 kilo tube chassis road car, Legacy front and rear hubs, custom low sitting suspension, EA81dc (tricked out to the max, on a budget) with a EA82 5sp mixed with a Legacy center diff. It would run 14"s with low profile tires. Seating for two. And maybe, hopefully, get it registerd as a custom car for onroad driving. Think of the styling of the car like the 1960's F1 cars, you know, bullet shaped. Only more like a half crushed bullet. With the motor I was to make two custom manifolds and then stick some kind of webers (got any ideas what two good webers would be for en EA81dc?) on them and run two square air filters sticking out the hood. Maybe paint it red with two GT stripes down the whole car. So what do you think? It's only a thought so far, but in a year or two I might start work on it. I'm going to see if ?I can draw some pictures of what I see it looking like.. This is really just a chat thread for ideas right now

Sand drifting baby... YEAH BABY, YEAH!!!

... Just amazing... I really didn't think it was going to run. I really under estimated myself. It's the first engine change in a car I have ever done or been part of that wasn't just another engine of the same type. I am a bit worried that I cut half the diagnostic stuff out of the loom, but i guess I'll cross that road when I need to. The two plugs by the ECU with single wires only get plugged together when you want to read the codes right? Is there any harm in plugging them in and leaving it like that? Mine are currently unplugged.

Spot on, for the US.