Phizinza

lol... I wouldn't suggest running WD40 in your car.. Oh, and btw, WD40 stands for the 40th try at a good "water dispersant", or somthing like that,.

Bit more progress... But first, I've been looking at what I've done with the fuel lines.. And I think it ain't gonna work. After more research I've seen most people use the standard tiny return hose? And just use new rubber on them. I thought I had to replace the whole line, and I have. But on the pump I've used a T piece, which just ain't gonna work. As when air gets in the system, which it will some time for another, it will just pump air.. So I am thinking of just using the original return hose from the tank to the fuel pump area and adapting it to my new EFI hose coming back from the engine bay. I'll get on the lathe and make something up for there.. But for the real progress.. I've mounted the center bearing for the propshaft. No welds, just bolts. The pictures say everything that is needed. Execpt that I only have a 2" lift so this is how I got away with this. http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ej22swap_propshaft_bearing_mount.jpg And my bro helped me out with his welding yet again. We are hoping it does not leak, but if it does he'll weld it up again. http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ej22swap_exhaust_y-pipe_welded.jpg http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ej22swap_exhaust_y-pipe_mounted.jpg http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ej22swap_exhaust_y-pipe_o2_crossmember.jpg The marked part on the engine crossmember in the last picture is where I cut out for clearence for the o2 sensor. On the right pipe I made a slit (not all the way thru) about 1mm thick. And on the left pipe I cut a wedge shape of about 12mm wide near the cat and then cut out 15mm of the pipe near the engine. It didn't go all to plan and needed a patch to make up lost pipe. So I hope it works.. I plan to get an exhaust shop to setup something much better later on. But for now I'm just going to use my old 2" pipe and muffler... At least that way there is some upgrading to be done So if "I get bored of the sound or there isn't enough power I don't have to do anything ridiculus. I have made a list of other things to complete, and it is growing. I can't nock enough off of it quick enough before I tihnk of new things. The radiator I got from a 89 Nissan was looking like it was going to fit great until I relised the filler cap was going to be sticking out the hood... :-\ So I'm not working on mounting it lower which will help with mounting the lower rad hose anyhow.. The more I do, the more that things go wrong and the more work I create. I am almost at the point of testing the engine and loom, but I really don't want to just incase it doesn't work

It's worthless... Ship the rear discs to me for cheap, it's all its really good for Also find a price on shiping the center of the diff ?? :-p

Any LSD in a EA82 car should be a Clutch pack like Matt was talking about. The Clutch packs do need rebuilds every so offen I have heard. And of cause, the more you use it, the more it needs rebuilds. The VLSD's (viscus) are better on wear as it uses the pressure of oil as friction to keep the wheels turning together. Not the friction of clutch friction plates which are some composite material of some type. So if you use the right oil and change it enough it will last a long time I reckon. Clutch LSD's are normally much better in the way they don't slip as much. Offroad guys go for them because the VLSD's are pretty much useless. Although for fast driving the VLSD might be pretty good. You'll find the VLSD's in Legacy's, WRX's, and those kinda cars, but I am not sure which ones. Also at a point in 94(?) they change the diff to the female type, so the stubs are on the shafts, not the diff. This would make fitting one interesting as you would need custom rear driveshafts. I don't think you can get a "mechanical" LSD for the rear of a subie, I think they are fronts only? When I pulled the Liberty's (Legacy) gearbox apart I found a lot of gunk in the center VLSD's casing they looked like oil/metal soup.. So maybe these VLSD's do wear a lot. There was a lot of this gunk...

First step... Research the hell out of the internet for how turbo's work.

This one is just a rip off of the Rigoli Brumby though, I guess it's way better because it has 498hp, instead ofthe 495 the Rigoli one has.... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=14577&cat=500&ppuser=9242

I am upto this stage too. My questions were going to be: Will the stock tiny return line be ok with the amount of fuel flowing thru the lines? And for those who have done it, did you adapt the fuel rail return line (same as the supply) down to the smaller EA return line? Also is the return line in the EA81 the same as the EA82? I'm pretty sure the EFI EA82 has the proper size for EFI both ways. I'm thinking of making an adapter on the lathe to fit the EJ's return line to the EA's return line, and then just running that and hoping that the fuel pump doesn't pump much air when running a low tank. I figured the Y adaptor pipe at the back of the pump won't work.. Tank fuel - Engine return ..........\...../................ ............\./.................. .............|................... .............|................... ...... Fuel Pump ............ Because if you get air in the line the fuel pump will just pump it around, and that's no good. So you need the return line completely seperate and just going into the tank. But Then I was worried the small return pipe into the tank might not take the fuel flow the pump is putting out and there for would build pressure and maybe burst! I'm getting the feeling I am thinking to hard on this one, what has everyone else done?

I have to agree. But, with my car it sounds pretty much just like that in the real, only 4 times better It also sounds 10x better from the outside as it does the inside. Inside it sounds like I had 5 exhaust leaks and a few bolts loose. Personally every EJ I've heard with a glass pack muffler sounds ____. No offence, if you like it, cool... I'm just sayign I prefer the straight thru "but not quite" mufflers that get the sound waves bouncing a little more in the muffler. Like the muffler I described in my earlier post.

Not quite that easy, you'll need to do something about their length otherwise your looking at about 15degrees negative camber, and even with camber adjuster like I installed you'll only get that to around 7-10degrees neg camber. You'll also need to get new caster/radius rods (I know you know all this Tom, but I'm saying it for the sake of readers.) The EA82 cars radius rods are the same as the EA81 cars, and if you put the EA82 control arms on you'll need about 3" longer on those rods. I cut the arms, so I only needed rods 2" longer because I changed the angle of the arm so it didn't get the wheel to far forwards which would cause CV problems and tyre rubbing. The EA82 drive shafts seem about 1.5" longer, so you may be able to use them with extended control arms, but I am not sure. I will have to try one as my inner DOJ's are a bit over extended... Just remember, LSD's might of came in different cars in europe. I am pretty sure the XT4 turbos would have them (The nissan guys seem to think thats where to find them.) If the diff is in a car with both rear wheels, jack both sides and turn one wheel. If it's LSD it *should* turn the other wheel in the same direction. If it's open it should go the other direction. Or you may see a silver sticker on the back that says "LSD 3.700" in blue. The same car the LSD comes from should of also came with rear discs.. You may just need to look at every subaru you see. But most likely you'll only find those parts on Turbo'd subies.. Good luck, and I want to see some slideways action photo's once your done!

bratman, just get a external Bosch fuel pump or something like it. I wouldn't bother getting a EA82 replacement one. I'm only using this one I have because I can't afford a new one right now.

Maybe it's just Australian GTX/2 then :-\ I talked to a mechanic once who also said he has seen the same, and he never uses it now. I won't touch the stuff, but that's just me.

Not great video, but the sound is good. Apart from all the wind and rattles.. http://offroadingsubarus.com/downloads/2inch_subie_soundclip.wmv Not sure what the muffler is but I've been told Magnaflow makes them the same, which it looks like this on the inside. _____| |_ |....../ /..| |...../ /...| |..../ /....| |.../ /.....| |../ /......| |./ /.......| -| |------- 1 and 3/4 pipe from the heads, into a cat which I have a 2" round lump from inside it on my desk (as in, it blow it's self apart and out the exhaust.) Then after the cat is a 2" pipe to the back through the "straight thru" muffler. I like the sound, but it's a tab loud for me. With my EJ22 I'm going to try and keep the cat if it's in good condition, this should get it a little quiter.

the 5% means a 5 percent accuracy. So basiclly plus or minus 5% on the 270ohm. The 1/2W I would assume means the risistor is good for upto half a watt of power through it, but I've never seen a risistor marked with a wattage rating before :-\ I think I might try this. EA81 and EA82 guages read the same right? Like a EA82 bung would work with the EA81 guage?

I like it.. I'd own one, if someone gave me it :-p

Yes, I believe that is the only real problem with the EA81. Lucky for me the original dual carb heads have port design more like the EA82. I've heard just the manifold and carbs make a normal EA81 a fair bit better, better then a weber so I've heard. I got a radiator and fuel parts yesterday. I'll post back later with more progress...

+1, Thats what I was about to type. I've done this to many times.. But now it's time for ej power in my brat!

You should put the 25 spline inner DOJ cups from the turbo car on your EA81 shafts, well that's how I know it's done. The EA81 propshaft needs to be about 20cm longer, I don't know the exact measurement though, sorry. I would recommend getting a complete ea82 clutch kit. Your box should be setup for the EA82 stlye thrust bearing and the ea82's friction disc has a bigger spline vs ea81. The presure plate from the EA82 kit should bolt to your EA81 flywheel, granted it is a 225mm clutch.

New custom manifolds (yes, two.) Going to fit two webers to it, and shave the block as much as possible. I want to see how much comp I can gain and maybe see if I can make a 140HP N/A EA81 Maybe run it on LNG or LPG instead of the webers and 102otc fuel. We'll see.. I have no idea what I would put it in. As for the original manifold and carbs, they are going on my brothers wagon after they get a rebuild and after he upgrades I don't know.. Might even sell them.

Nothing much has happened. So I decided I'd change the title.. Just to confuse everyone. No, it just makes it better for when people are searching.

It is hard to know. I have come to the belief now that just because it was put there by "smart" designers doesn't mean it is better or right. Sometimes they do things for profit, fast manufacture, etc. But I also do understand how having a shaped inlet and outlet can make a smoother flow. Experiment is about the only way :-\

Wow... those are pretty clean.. I should clean my EA81dc heads up when they come off the block. I've seen gunk in the oil passages of other cars, it all came from Castrol GTX/2... Horrid oil that.

Oh yeah... of cause. Cheers,

I still reckon your safer off in a F1 car then in a road car. Just think about how many people die pre race mile and practice mile, hell even test mile in a F1 car vs on road drive deaths... But thats another subject.

I'm not sure where it should be, but 28 degrees sounds very wrong. I would say more like 11 to 14 degrees at 1300. What I would do is set the timing to 10 or so degrees at your 1300RPM. That on it's own might drop the RPM back down to the 800 - 900 it is normally. But if it doesn't then I would fiddle with the idle speed screw. With my experience I have now I would leave the idle mixture screw alone. Once your idle is back to 800 - 900 then set the timing to 10degrees BTDC. Oops, missed your second post. Normally when I have a vac leak it slows idle down (not sure if that is the norm or not?) Maybe use your gasket and some RTV silicone? Not the best, but it might work for a few years to come.

The Subaru Loyals came with SPFI on the EA82. It is possible to take the manifold, TB, pump, wiring, etc, and bolt it to a EA82 or EA81 carbed engine. Look for "SPFI swap" or something. General Disorder ( GD ) knows everything about it. Can't answer your other question, sorry.