Phizinza

Yes. Ok, sounds like the standard style ones are the way to go. I've found some on ebay, but I'll check with my local auto parts guy to see if he can get something similar first.

So I've had many problems with the standard autoshop ones I buy for my EA81, these are the two pieces of perforated stainless steel sandwiching a compound of some type. My Outback's EJ25 needs some new exhaust gaskets and I don't want to put this type of gasket in there! I've read the factory 5 layer thick stainless steel ones are good but I just want a wider opinion base. I hope to not screw around with these gaskets again for a long time!

Thanks for the replies so far. I've been thinking about it for a bit now, and I think I prefer the look of only the 40mm suspension lifts. The 2" body lift with suspension lift makes the wheel arches look a little odd IMO. Anymore and the more odd it looks. I won't be doing anything serious in my Outback. It's mainly just a tourer/camper car. I'm setting the back up with a bed and drawers etc. I think I'll just go slightly bigger tyres for now and then if I want some more clearance for the sand I'll lift the suspension a little.

I'm wondering if anyone has pictures of lifted outbacks. Also, if you have one yourself could to give a quick description of how it drives with the lift vs without, and the fuel mileage change etc? Thank you,

When the filters get clogged they draw air up from the crank case vents, then fill the filter with oil by doing so. Sometimes if you just replace the air filter its all good.

KISS EA81 body, EJ22 engine, EA82 D/R box, 3.9 welded, 27x9.5R15 MTs, stripped out for weight... Then just learn to drive, pick your lines, and have a good time because that is what it is all about.

might be of help http://offroadingsubarus.com/6stud_conversion.html

Fresh. I'm convinced if the price is convincing.. Its at an auction so won't know until it sells. I just asked on here to find out if anyone had had experience with this type of thing and with the electrics. I know about what the water will do to metals, what it will do on the inside of the engine, what it will do to carpets, etc... I just know that different brands do different things with cars so the damage would be different. For instance, many Lancia's and Fiat's in the 80's and 90's had resin sealed ECU's...

If the price is right I'll buy it, but we will see. So no ones had experience with water damaged Legacy electrics?

Mechanical damage is fairly rare here. I'm looking at storm damaged car auctions as the cars go extremely cheap. My question for here was what electronically would most likely be dead after such incident. I've heard of people sinking their cars in holes and taking hours to recover and all they needed to do was wash it out and let it dry. But I've also seen first hand ECU's dead because of water. So I guess like all things it's just a bit hit and miss. I just thought someone might have experience with what a Legacy's equipment would take.

My brothers car was a flood damaged car. He bought it from someone who had got it from an auction and had spent some money on all all the interior electrics. So it ran fine, drove fine. But there were little issue like the heater box controls were dead because of corrosion. We ripped the dash out and fixed it up. Car is good now, and has been for months. And for $8000 less then market value with only 10 hours or so of our work put in and less then $500 parts I'd say a good deal. I understand what water can do and where it can get. But you see changing some bearings and stripping down a gearbox isn't much work for me, done it countless times before. Replacing ECU's and sensors is where I'd rather not go due to replacement price... My cars carpets stayed wet for 4 days, like push down on them and a puddle would appear. They are fine now after I pressure cleaned them out of the car and dried them.

Don't know if it runs. No history known. Why would the carpets and seats have to be replaced? I've sunk my current 83 Subaru so water went over the seats, I just pulled them out with the carpet washed and dried them. They look and smell fine now. Brakes can be fixed easily. A quick clean of the discs with a wire brush on the grinder and same on the pads. Change all the fluid while doing it all as well . I'm quite capable of pulling down the diff and gearbox to clean it all up and remove rust. Pulling all the interior panels off and cleaning out the water would take its time, but it's not like the car costs so much to start with. I'm more interested in the ECU and engine condition after such event.

Has anyone ever dealt with a water damaged Legacy? As in tried to repair it? If the water was half way up the dash, what is likely to be damaged beyond repair and needing replacing? Thanks

Took the rocker covers off.. All had 0.35 to 0.40mm gap (I assume this is taken up when there is oil pressure) except the intake on cylinder 3 and 4 (opposite valves), these had over 1.5mm gap! Has something happened to that cam lobe that has ruined the lifters? Hmmmm :-\

You are right, the RX brakes do fit the EA81 cars.. But they aren't plentiful over here. They are pretty rare. If I get some money soon I'll change the rotors.. As I'm thinking it is most likely those now. But still not convinced.

I could do another oil change and run thinner stuff, but that's money I really do not have right now and the tappet noise started out of no where while running oil which had been working well for a few months... So I don't think it is the oil thickness that is the problem..

I pulled those off when changing the shoes, they looked fine and I tightened them up good with the breaker bar. Also re checked after a drive. The thing is it does it before and after changing the rear shoes. Mostly just wobbles the pedal, can't feel it much in the seat. When it is wobbling and I swap over to using the hand brake it isn't there so I don't see it being a rotor. Also about the rear discs. Over here in Australia they are rare, and over $600 a set. Not worth it in my mind when the drums do the job (just...) After changing the rear shoes and adjusting them the pedal has pressure within 10mm movement, and only needs about a quarter travel on the pedal to stop the car very quick. Thanks for the advice so far.

I suppose I'm going to have to crack the rocker covers off and have a good close look. Its constantly there all the time. I run 20w-50 as its warm in Australia and it's an old car. The factory oil pressure gauge reads between 4 and 5 bar while driving.

When I brake sometimes the pedal wobbles badly. But sometimes it is completely smooth. When it wobbles if I pull the hand brake on and let off the pedal it doesn't vibrate the hand brake so I am assuming it is something to do with the rear brakes. I replaced the rear shoes, nothing looked wrong in there. But it still intermittently wobbles/vibrates :-\ It's an EA81 4WD, BTW.

So in my hydraulic lifter EA81 all of a sudden while driving at highway speeds I get tappet noise out of no where. It's pretty bad/loud. This engine has been good in the past and now all of a sudden this... :-\ I changed the oil, still the same no better. Could it just be something stuck in one of the lifters? Any chance a cleaner would fix it you reckon? Any ideas on how to fix it apart from the obvious strip the engine down and replace the lifters?

t-case swap with this 8in lift?

Nice, I like it. Well done

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=109351 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=95852&highlight=phizinza+pictures

Make sure you have both pieces of this cut shaft in the car, and tack it in there. As it won't need to be exactly 4" longer (in my experience).

Well.. I ended up sharpening a 7/8th drill bit I had to the 60degree taper. Centre punched the holes, predrilled with 4mm, then drilled with 14mm bit and then put the taper in with my 7/8ths bit. Worked a treat, and they look nice all silver now. I will have to post some pictures when I get them on the car.