Phizinza

Jibs, what trans do you plan on using? PT 5sp? You can either modify your 4sp mounts onto the 5sp box or do what GD done and modify your 5sp mounts to fit the 4sp crossmember. Or you can do what I done and modify a 5sp crossmember to fit the Brat. If your using a AWD box, then you have do work the gearbox crossmember a lot.

Diablo SV beats all in my books :-p Yes, I know it isn't the fastest, even around a track. But it's so much better in my mind.

Alright. I just figured (seems I can change an axle in an hour on my Brat) that it very well could be worth it seem you say you can't afford another one anyhow.... The boots I buy for my axles would work out to about $8USD each. And a tub a molly only costs about $25.. Just remember, if it does blow while your on the road stop as soon as possible. Don't want your center VLSD to cook and roast your oil or what ever.

Wouldn't that offset the intake port on the head to manifold and cause a disruption in air flow and pretty much screw up all the improvements you have tried so hard to do?Or am I off with the fairies again?

Have you thought about pulling the shaft, installing a new boot along with the proper molydisulfide grease, molly grease for short? It may just clear up the problem, but most likely the joint is damaged and won't last as long as it should. But if you leave it with a open boot it's not going to be happy for too much longer.

:-\ comfy..... I'd go with something a little more padded.

1 earth wire, 1 positive wire, 1 dash light wire (if wanted,) and 1 wire off the (positive connection?) coil. Then bolt where ever it fits. Preferably where it doesn't get in the way.

Cheers for that. I think I'll mount the switch where my choke cable used to go, on RHD car that's just down and to the left of the steering wheel. I've also soldered up plugs to the difflocker and reverse light sensors. My diff locker should light up the 4WD light now It will be interesting to see if that light works as I've never seen it on in this car before. I still have to put the temp sensor in and figure out a oil pressure sensor too.. That will be interesting.

I disagree with the disadvantage in "power" you speak of. I would think 2" x 2" would have more area then 2.25". If it is done right it would give more power. But yes, the extra weight wouldn't help. Would look good though!

Alright, another update. I've only been working on small things since last time. But heres the big things from everything I've done. First the intake. I really don't like the setup I have created, but I'll live with it for now. I wanted a air box in the spare wheel well out of the way and out of the water. http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ej22swap_intake_setup.jpg I've also pulled out a lot of trim to install a new fuel return hose. Oh the joys of pulling the air box out and squeezing wires and pipes where they were never suppose to go. http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ej22swap_fuel_lines1.jpg http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ej22swap_fuel_lines2.jpg http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ej22swap_fuel_lines3.jpg I've also put the diff locker solenoids in and piped them into the intake manifold via one of the plugs on the side of it. I pulled the plug out and used a brass gas fitting, and it worked great. Lets just hope it operates the diff locker now.... http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/ft4wd_difflocker_solenoids_subarubrat.jpg One question though. Do the solenoids stay "on" all the time while either in locked mode or unlocked mode. Or do they just push the diff locker into place then switch off? There is a detent on the diff locker that holds it in place.

Dampener, ok.. I will look out for a new pump, but for now it's budget job..

Nope... unless it is blown, and does not light..

Is there such a thing? Surely once it has a funtion it can't be bling anymore. Looks nice, not to intrusive in visibility too.

Alright. I'll try it without, or with... ahh, you know what I mean. Thanks Numbchux.

I'm assuming it could cause a lack in fuel pressure by the time it gets to the engine.

That's interesting. I drove the Liberty it came out of just before I pulled the engine and it was fine, not rough at all. Had plenty of go as well.

Ok. I'm going to try the engine without it. All it can really do is close off the pipe to the canister and that pipe on most other cars I've seen is normally just a open anyhow. I know the whole "if it's there, it's there for a reason" thing. But I really just don't believe that anymore. There are so many stupid useless things in cars that I have seen it just isn't funny. If it doesn't run right, I'll try it with it plugged in. We'll go from there.

Your manual might be getting the EA82 and EJ series engines mixed up. EJ's have 1 belt as far as I am aware of. EA82's have 2.

Not sure what would be an upgrade interchangible, but heres what I do know. 81-89 Hatchbacks 81-87 Brats 80-84 Wagons All of those should fit in like it was made for it. I think*

Maybe this is a Australian thing with this regulator.. It attches right at the pump and then has a fuel out let hose which connects to the car. The pump came out of a 88(?) MPFI non-turbo Wagon. The regulator on it is right on the output end and has a right angle outlet... Maybe I should get a photo of it tonight to show.

I threaded the 4 holes in the adaptor plate with the 10x1.25mm thread all the other bolts are on the Subaru's, but I'm in Australia, and metric is what we have.

Ok.. I've heard I need to remove the regulator on the MPFI fuel pump I have so it will work with my EJ22.. How do I do this? It doesn't look threaded on. And if it is to hard to remove without lots of modding to fit it back to a fuel hose, can I just take the plug off the dry side of the regulator and somehow cut the spring that is inside it to stopthe regulator doing it's job?

Just remember, a 29x9.5R15 isn't always 29" tall, or even 9.5" wide.. Example: Kumho Venture M/T 27x8.5R14's are 26.3" tall, and 7.75" wide. So go figure.

I dunno... I think M/T's will just dig you holes. Because of the angle you were taking it was giving you the problem of lifting two wheels. LSD or welded rear would help, but with the welded rear you'll find a lot of your "spare of the moment" offroading is only done in 3WD. And it's really annoying to have to explain why it's 3WD and how your subie is a FWD and can drive with one rear axle pulled out. With the LSD, I've heard if you 'use' them a lot they wear out pretty fast (like somewhere in the relm of 50K.) For now, I reckon just always take the best possible line, and hope for the best. Oh, and with those tires, once you stop moving up, I doubt you'll get enough grip to continue. So try backing down and doing it again.

This little do-whats-it was unplugged when I got the 89 Subaru Liberty (Legacy) and the car ran fine with it unplugged.. It has two vacuum hoses connected to it. One from just after the throttle body, and one that goes to the charcol canister, through a metal pipe beside the tank vent hose. http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/temp/what_the_hell_is_this1.jpg http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/temp/what_the_hell_is_this2.jpg What does it do? Can I remove it? Should I plug it back in? Thanks